Backyard Shed

[PvilleStang 2811]

I know someone here's walked this road before.  Looking for something 8x12 or so.  Would it be cheaper to buy a plastic HD special and put it on a wooden base / foundation, or build / frame from scratch?  The foundation is going to be the 2x6s and floor sheet either way, just trying to figure out what to go vertical with at that point.  Also, likely doing the concrete patio pier blocks as footings to avoid anything permanent, but am up for ideas / suggestions at this point.  Trying to keep the cost down and beer drinking up.

[UTPhil2006 3774]

Did someone burn down your old sheshed?

[mrhorn 1376]

I put up a Suncast shed last summer that I got from Lowes.  I used cinder blocks buried in the ground to level it out and then built out a frame to go on top.  Getting the ground level and fitting the frame was the longest part, putting up the shed was easy.

[BottleRocket 643]

 

[LonghornJones 828]

^^never forget

[Judge Roybeanbag 11730]

The house we moved into already had one of those 6x8 Rubbermaid Roughneck sheds in the back yard.  Whoever did it used a solid 6x8 base of leftover bricks, leveled out, and then plywood on top of that directly under the shed floor.  It's been pretty solid.

[After irth 1240]

Necro-bump.

I have a 8'x8' metal storage shed on a concrete pad in my back yard.  I am looking to tear that out and replacing it with a workshop-type building.  Looking at 12'x24' or maybe larger.  Gonna run electricity to it.  Install an a/c (or maybe just a portable chiller).  Some form of covered port/patio beside it as well.  

Don't wanna build it.  Gonna have it done.  My 82 year old father is coming to live with us, and he's gonna need a woodshop to fuck around in.  

I'm guessing I'm only limited by what my budget can stand, huh?  All that being said, anyone have any experience at this?  Tips or advice?  

[ROFL BOX 6634]

Where do you live, @After irth?

We can build better & lower cost than anything you find via the "Tuff Shed" type co's.

The thing to do is DEFINITELY do a "block & beam" (pier & beam but no drilling into the Earf for piers).  If it's built correctly & access is available, you could sell it & someone can move it out.  You also get a lower tax rate vs. a slab.  The typical maximum you can get down the road with is 14' wide.  Mobile homes are max 15' wide per DOT regs.

If you DO want to make it permanent, then a concrete pad is a possibility but it will cost more.  I'd also suggest you try to do 14' (even if you go 14' x 20') because that extra 2' of swing space is a good idea.  It's like a tractor... I have yet to hear someone say they had too much.  It's not that you're attracting too much crap, but it does allow for better organization.

Add a window or two on one of the sides & with a removable screen, you can bring longer pieces in.  A typical design will have a set of double doors on one end, single person door towards the other but on the side.  Give yourself the ability to get cross drafts.

Even if you don't install one, frame out for @ least ONE window type AC unit... maybe even two? (added reinforcements in the 2x6) & stretch the walls as high as you can get (a good height is a 10' interior... you can easily loft that for storage, material, whatever).  If you intend to do something like woodwork, a spot kinda low for connecting a dust extraction hose is a good thing as well.

Also, give yourself as wide a soffit (overhang) from the roof as is possible (unless you intend to put gutters on... in that event, go "normal").  Wide / extended roof lines = better prevention from water splash back & your drip line is extended.

Put receptacles wherever you can fit 'em... more is better, but pay attention to the distance from any kind of electrical service & be sure to have available knockouts for expansion into the shed.  Add power overhead for a few long LED's.  More light is better.

If you want metal skin, that can be done & goes up fast.  Whatever you end up doing, damage from the inside of a shop happens more with some kind of lumber or whatever poking than damage from the outside.  I have a 14 x 24 & it's similar to the attached sketch but no windows or AC frame out.  It's 20 years old & in great shape.  Purchased it before I got into the construction trades & I added a 1/4" plywood setup on the inside from the 4' height down (8' wide pieces).  Went with 1/4" due to weight, didn't add insulation but I could easily slide that down between the studs.  Plywood is screwed in so I could remove if needed for any reason.

& A ramp.  You'll want to pay attention to the yard / lawn / land slope & get a ramp for easy movement of tools, lawn mower (riding, push), whatever.  A permanent ramp will have weather issues. so think that idea in advance if you want a fixed 4 or 5' wide x 8 to 10' long ramp.  Bigger is def. better but also heavier & harder to manipulate.

Fully weathertight @ the base is gonna be interesting depending on the type of doors you go with or slab on grade, etc. because some generic varieties build onsite will have issues with a tight fit... gaps WILL be present in some of those.  & I mean the accessibility of mice, scorpions, etc.  If an ant wants in, that's a done deal & you won't really be able to stop that from happening, so try to keep snacks away... not even a wrapper in a trash can.

[After irth 1240]

26 minutes ago, ROFL BOX said:

Where do you live, @After irth?

We can build better & lower cost than anything you find via the "Tuff Shed" type co's.

The thing to do is DEFINITELY do a "block & beam" (pier & beam but no drilling into the Earf for piers).  If it's built correctly & access is available, you could sell it & someone can move it out.  You also get a lower tax rate vs. a slab.  The typical maximum you can get down the road with is 14' wide.  Mobile homes are max 15' wide per DOT regs.

If you DO want to make it permanent, then a concrete pad is a possibility but it will cost more.  I'd also suggest you try to do 14' (even if you go 14' x 20') because that extra 2' of swing space is a good idea.  It's like a tractor... I have yet to hear someone say they had too much.  It's not that you're attracting too much crap, but it does allow for better organization.

Add a window or two on one of the sides & with a removable screen, you can bring longer pieces in.  A typical design will have a set of double doors on one end, single person door towards the other but on the side.  Give yourself the ability to get cross drafts.

Even if you don't install one, frame out for @ least ONE window type AC unit... maybe even two? (added reinforcements in the 2x6) & stretch the walls as high as you can get (a good height is a 10' interior... you can easily loft that for storage, material, whatever).  If you intend to do something like woodwork, a spot kinda low for connecting a dust extraction hose is a good thing as well.

Also, give yourself as wide a soffit (overhang) from the roof as is possible (unless you intend to put gutters on... in that event, go "normal").  Wide / extended roof lines = better prevention from water splash back & your drip line is extended.

Put receptacles wherever you can fit 'em... more is better, but pay attention to the distance from any kind of electrical service & be sure to have available knockouts for expansion into the shed.  Add power overhead for a few long LED's.  More light is better.

If you want metal skin, that can be done & goes up fast.  Whatever you end up doing, damage from the inside of a shop happens more with some kind of lumber or whatever poking than damage from the outside.  I have a 14 x 24 & it's similar to the attached sketch but no windows or AC frame out.  It's 20 years old & in great shape.  Purchased it before I got into the construction trades & I added a 1/4" plywood setup on the inside from the 4' height down (8' wide pieces).  Went with 1/4" due to weight, didn't add insulation but I could easily slide that down between the studs.  Plywood is screwed in so I could remove if needed for any reason.

& A ramp.  You'll want to pay attention to the yard / lawn / land slope & get a ramp for easy movement of tools, lawn mower (riding, push), whatever.  A permanent ramp will have weather issues. so think that idea in advance if you want a fixed 4 or 5' wide x 8 to 10' long ramp.  Bigger is def. better but also heavier & harder to manipulate.

Fully weathertight @ the base is gonna be interesting depending on the type of doors you go with or slab on grade, etc. because some generic varieties build onsite will have issues with a tight fit... gaps WILL be present in some of those.  & I mean the accessibility of mice, scorpions, etc.  If an ant wants in, that's a done deal & you won't really be able to stop that from happening, so try to keep snacks away... not even a wrapper in a trash can.

All good stuff!  Thanks for the input. 

I live in Lufkin, by the way. 

[Catpfish 618]

You'll also have to pay attention to city codes (assuming you are in the city).  For instance, in Pflugerville, you can build up to 10X12 without a permit.  Anything larger has to be approved and inspected by the city.

[ROFL BOX 6634]

Also, depending on the municipality you might have easement setbacks to consider.  If you're in the county, probably not a concern

If you're in Florida, EVERYTHING is a concern, be it how the structure is anchored to the Earf, what the utility setbacks are, permitting for location as well as design (don't want hurricane based shed or workshop missiles flying around, whether it's the entire structure or parts thereof).

[Judge Roybeanbag 11730]

On 3/12/2021 at 11:00 PM, ROFL BOX said:

Also, depending on the municipality you might have easement setbacks to consider.  If you're in the county, probably not a concern

If you're in Florida, EVERYTHING is a concern, be it how the structure is anchored to the Earf, what the utility setbacks are, permitting for location as well as design (don't want hurricane based shed or workshop missiles flying around, whether it's the entire structure or parts thereof).

Unless the shed is blue.  If it’s a blue shed you don’t need any of that other crap.  

[Hornbeliever 704]

I have a 14x30 or so and love it.   Agree with everything @ROFL BOX said. 

I insulated after a summer in Texas without insulation even though I had new window unit ac.  Still sucked.  High ceilings didn't help.  insulation helped a ton.   I added 1/4" plywood all through to 7 feet high,  recommend that too because I hit the insulation way too much until I added that.  Hell, I still hit the insulation above the 7 foot plywood on occasion with long lumber. 

I only have 2 outlets and it makes me sad.   Get a portable heater.  Build two work tables, long one for mitre saw.

[dad 557]

It's hard to beat the price of the galvanized steel storage sheds. At Lowes, it's only about $675 for a 10 x 8 ft, with 2 4x8 tongue and groove OSB subfloor sheets, 9 concrete deck blocks and 6 2x4x10 pressure treated boards. I think that's all I'd need.

Why not get this instead of a wooden shed that will likely cost 2 or 3 times as much especially with COVID having doubled the price of wood? Is it THAT flimsy? 

[Jkwellborn 6601]

It's hard to beat the price of the galvanized steel storage sheds. At Lowes, it's only about $675 for a 10 x 8 ft, with 2 4x8 tongue and groove OSB subfloor sheets, 9 concrete deck blocks and 6 2x4x10 pressure treated boards. I think that's all I'd need.

Why not get this instead of a wooden shed that will likely cost 2 or 3 times as much especially with COVID having doubled the price of wood? Is it THAT flimsy? 

You ever put one of those together? If you go that route, pay them to assemble.

A wooden framed building will be much sturdier than one of these though.

[dad 557]

3 minutes ago, Jkwellborn said:

You ever put one of those together? If you go that route, pay them to assemble.

A wooden framed building will be much sturdier than one of these though.

I've never put together a shed. Reading the review people took anywhere from 1 - 2 days to assemble them so it does sound tedious. 
How about the vinyl & resin sheds? Those are also fairly economical and wouldn't have issues with rot or rust. Only thing I can think of is that they might warp in the Texas heat?

[ROFL BOX 6634]

Find someone who has one of these craptacular "assemble it yourself" sheds & I guarantee you that after 1 year, they can't get the sliding doors to "slide".

I mean, yeah... I get it... & you CAN improve on them with the addition of framing inside & proper exterior metal roofing screws to connect them.

But still... shit products.  That OSB floor is gonna rot out because OSB doesn't like moisture.  At all.

[dad 557]

Find someone who has one of these craptacular "assemble it yourself" sheds & I guarantee you that after 1 year, they can't get the sliding doors to "slide".

I mean, yeah... I get it... & you CAN improve on them with the addition of framing inside & proper exterior metal roofing screws to connect them.

But still... shit products.  That OSB floor is gonna rot out because OSB doesn't like moisture.  At all.

I think these have doors that swing but I get your point! I think I’ve settled for having a local contractor crew here in DFW build me one out of wood on the spot. I just got quoted $2800 for them to build me an 8x16 which seems like a great deal. I don’t have to tear my fence down to bring in a prebuilt one that way. I could build my own if any material type but man now that I’m getting older I just don’t have the time.

[Godzillatron 292]

In Austin I used Carl Russo at Sheds and More to built a 10x12 about 4 years ago. Easy to deal with, cheaper than the Tuff Shed franchise, and I got to customize. Has held up well. YMMV.

https://www.shedsandmore.com/

[Godzillatron 292]

In Austin I used Carl Russo at Sheds and More to built a 10x12 about 4 years ago. Easy to deal with, cheaper than the Tuff Shed franchise, and I got to customize. Has held up well. YMMV.

https://www.shedsandmore.com/

Here’s the shed. Build bigger than you think you need if you have space. This is 10x12, wish I’d built 14x16. You will fill up whatever you build.

[mapplewhite132 309]

17 minutes ago, Godzillatron said:

In Austin I used Carl Russo at Sheds and More to built a 10x12 about 4 years ago. Easy to deal with, cheaper than the Tuff Shed franchise, and I got to customize. Has held up well. YMMV.

https://www.shedsandmore.com/

I also worked with Carl and my shed is bad ass. 

[dad 557]

Shoot if I was in Austin I'd be down. But I'm in DFW.

[ROFL BOX 6634]

On 4/18/2021 at 8:49 AM, dad said:

I think these have doors that swing but I get your point! I think I’ve settled for having a local contractor crew here in DFW build me one out of wood on the spot. I just got quoted $2800 for them to build me an 8x16 which seems like a great deal. I don’t have to tear my fence down to bring in a prebuilt one that way. I could build my own if any material type but man now that I’m getting older I just don’t have the time.

$ 21.87 per sq. ft.

& I do suggest the highest walls / deepest soffit you can afford.  & Get those soffits cased in - don't get exposed trusses.  You'll get moisture damage under the decking from daily condensation.