Jump to content

The "Post a Picture You Took" thread


Patricio Swayze

Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, elfenix said:

i need to get around to printing one of these pretty large (2'x3') for the wall. leaning toward the second.  thoughts?

 

P4242169.thumb.jpg.6bc03dc780933161869b8fe2ffe2a7a4.jpg

P4242190.thumb.JPG.9ee9f9db3cac2492c9407870e59f9936.JPG

P4242193.thumb.jpg.4ab4f4830d29dd79223a2cc8c96e79b3.jpg

P4242195.thumb.jpg.fdbc295768cf30a93e0498196c1f3c38.jpg

 

All awesome, but I actually like the first best. The straight lines of color and the pattern made by the perfectly spaced planes is badass. 

  • Hook 'Em 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is cool. I once made a pinhole camera in my tech ed/shop class in middle school (we also learned to shoot on 35mm SLRs and develop BW in a darkroom; coolest class I ever had in grade school). Too bad I don’t think any of my old photos from then were kept.

I made one in photography class in high school using an oatmeal container. I think I have one or two photos from it still. Nothing that interesting, it was more of a learning experience about exposure time.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/28/2023 at 12:13 AM, DougO said:

That last one is underrated, too. Unique angle, dramatic heading into the cloud banks. It's like you're up in the air with them. How did that even...?

last year's emilia romagna GP, they were flying down the pit straight at imola and i was about 1/3 of the way up the rivazza hill directly across from pit in.  3 passes, the middle one without smoke, the third one they did a loop right over our heads and blew smoke starting at the top, which is what those photos were from.  it was hard to keep them in frame even zoomed all the way out (panasonic 100-300 on an em1ii).  using a calculator i figure they were only about 300' away in some of the photos (not those)  (and, again, i was not at the top of the hill).

  • Hook 'Em 1
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am disappoint with what I've seen of the Nikon Z8, especially the price tag. Just an in between version of what they already have that doesn't really work for me and what I do with my budget. I'm still working on figuring out how to deal with the 800 giganto lens I stupidly bought a while back, using Z fc little camera. I found there are focus modes that just suck ass with with the bigass lens, so getting a little bit of a feel for it. Still can't use it all that much due to unbalanced gawkyness of the  combo and fear of getting it fucked up in the woods and shit.

Probably 4 or 5 years for now they will have a D500ish Z version that I really need. Might have to pick up another used D500 in the meantime. One of mine is worn AF.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks pretty good to me, Mr. Swayze.


I haven’t been able to go shoot anything, but I have a metric fuckload of slides I could scan.

Lots of old locomotives, some stuff from Japan, some old National park stuff, etc. Maybe I’ll get around to that.

Thanks. And you should scan all those.

I am still in this rut. I had yesterday off and instead of traveling I just went to my usual spots around town. Just am not motivated and lack focus.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Mdhorn said:

Those talons.  Someone looks like they just got their nails done.  

We have a mating pair of hawks in our neughborhood. Our dog often finds disemboweled rabbits in our backyard. One evening she was barking constantly at a tree along our fence line and couldn’t be distracted. I thought there might be a squirrel or raccoon she had treed. I went to go distract her and saw a decapitated and disemboweled rabbit hanging from the branches.

  • Hook 'Em 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice shots NYC and Ychang.

Going to do a bit of spamming. I have a few copies left of my last two books. “Shake ‘Em On Down” (railroader/graffiti/hobo) book is $35. I only have 4 left and they won’t be printed again.

“+ / -“ is a hardcover and these have some bubbling in the inside cover. No issues with pages or the photos. All b&w images. I only have a few left. $30.

a5377371a8b77e9a90c1d363081c4487.jpg

DM me if interested.

Heading down to the coast tomorrow. Hopefully I find something that interests me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have any of you film shooters or people with old film stuff tried digitizing with a camera and macro/gizmo attachment or other somesuch thing? 

I started poking around with it a again recently. I found that it really works great with black and white negatives, which I had never really tried before. But color negs are a major pain. Slides are hit and miss depending on the exposure but the originals never looks as good as you thought they did when you shot them back in the day. I just ordered an LED light to get some more consistent light source happening, but dust is really a bitch of a problem, too. Why does stuff have to be hard? 

I have a shit-ton of old stuff of mine and family that I need to get digitally archived...though I'm really not that sure why.

Edited by DougO
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have any of you film shooters or people with old film stuff tried digitizing with a camera and macro/gizmo attachment or other somesuch thing? 
I started poking around with it a again recently. I found that it really works great with black and white negatives, which I had never really tried before. But color negs are a major pain. Slides are hit and miss depending on the exposure but the originals never looks as good as you thought they did when you shot them back in the day. I just ordered an LED light to get some more consistent light source happening, but dust is really a bitch of a problem, too. Why does stuff have to be hard? 
I have a shit-ton of old stuff of mine and family that I need to get digitally archived...though I'm really not that sure why.

Anton scans with a dslr. Hit him up if he doesn’t see this.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have any of you film shooters or people with old film stuff tried digitizing with a camera and macro/gizmo attachment or other somesuch thing? 
I started poking around with it a again recently. I found that it really works great with black and white negatives, which I had never really tried before. But color negs are a major pain. Slides are hit and miss depending on the exposure but the originals never looks as good as you thought they did when you shot them back in the day. I just ordered an LED light to get some more consistent light source happening, but dust is really a bitch of a problem, too. Why does stuff have to be hard? 
I have a shit-ton of old stuff of mine and family that I need to get digitally archived...though I'm really not that sure why.

I do. If you wanna do it super cheap you can use this just on top of a light source by itself. It’s expensive for what it is but makes it easy. I have the entire Valoi 360 setup which has been pricey but pretty great.

https://cinestillfilm.com/products/valoi360-120-film-holder

I also have this which I don’t use anymore after getting the Valoi. It’s okay but the film holders are not nearly as good (for slides it’s awesome though).

https://cinestillfilm.com/products/sunray-copybox-ii-scanning-film-workflow-set
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Anton Chigurh said:


I do. If you wanna do it super cheap you can use this just on top of a light source by itself. It’s expensive for what it is but makes it easy. I have the entire Valoi 360 setup which has been pricey but pretty great.

https://cinestillfilm.com/products/valoi360-120-film-holder

I also have this which I don’t use anymore after getting the Valoi. It’s okay but the film holders are not nearly as good (for slides it’s awesome though).

https://cinestillfilm.com/products/sunray-copybox-ii-scanning-film-workflow-set

I'm using Nikon es-1 attachment on the 60mm macro for 35mm slides. Makes that part easy since you don't have to line up the camera and worry about movement. I have my old Nikon scanner from the 2000s that provides a negative holder, clunky, but it works with the es-1. I just played around with some little cheap LED lights for starters, but I have a more legit photo light coming to get a bit more serious and accurate color balance. That part is doable. But processing the color neg capture is a bitch. Can't get the conversion right. I'm not used to messing with RAW and Lightroom, either.

I will need a 120 holder at some point for some of my dad's old stuff. I wish I could rig it like the 35mm stuff on the end of a lens to make it easier.

I'm using my Nikon D800 for the scanning. Its the most expensive camera I ever bought, and currently the most worthless on the used market, ironically. So it's nice that I'm able to still at least get some use out of it. It has a decently high resolution.  

Edited by DougO
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the Plustek film scanner that they still sell today, as well. It's not bad but the process is pretty slow and tedious. I think the DSLR method gets better results in most cases. Color negs may be the exception. I never installed it to my current computer, though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using Nikon es-1 attachment on the 60mm macro for 35mm slides. Makes that part easy since you don't have to line up the camera and worry about movement. I have my old Nikon scanner from the 2000s that provides a negative holder, clunky, but it works with the es-1. I just played around with some little cheap LED lights for starters, but I have a more legit photo light coming to get a bit more serious and accurate color balance. That part is doable. But processing the color neg capture is a bitch. Can't get the conversion right. I'm not used to messing with RAW and Lightroom, either.
I will need a 120 holder at some point for some of my dad's old stuff. I wish I could rig it like the 35mm stuff on the end of a lens to make it easier. 

I use a plug-in with Lightroom (negative lab pro) which makes it incredibly easy, but you can start with just inverting the black and white points. It will of course make adjustments backwards, though.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the Plustek film scanner that they still sell today, as well. It's not bad but the process is pretty slow and tedious. I think the DSLR method gets better results in most cases. Color negs may be the exception. I never installed it to my current computer, though.

Big reason I invested in a DSLR setup, even though it costs much more than a decent flat bed scanner or a PlusTek, is because it’s just a million times faster. Dust can be a problem, yes, but it’s still just blazing compared to other methods.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Anton Chigurh said:


Big reason I invested in a DSLR setup, even though it costs much more than a decent flat bed scanner or a PlusTek, is because it’s just a million times faster. Dust can be a problem, yes, but it’s still just blazing compared to other methods.

True dat. Of course, as the DougO curse dictates, I bought the Nikon ES-1 a few years ago to start trying this method. Then they came out with the ES-2 that includes its own negative holder. Also has some kind of Picture Control negative filter that you can download, so that it does most of the work in camera. But I haven't figured out a way to download it or similar one to make it easier. I can invert the color, but the color shift is still there. I think the wonky light I'm using so far is part of the problem. But it's just in the experimental phase, not too serious yet.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

True dat. Of course, as the DougO curse dictates, I bought the Nikon ES-1 a few years ago to start trying this method. Then they came out with the ES-2 that includes its own negative holder. Also has some kind of Picture Control negative filter that you can download, so that it does most of the work in camera. But I haven't figured out a way to download it or similar one to make it easier. I can invert the color, but the color shift is still there. I think the wonky light I'm using so far is part of the problem. But it's just in the experimental phase, not too serious yet.

Yeah, that’s likely too (the light source). My current light has three temps of light which makes it easy to get a better base.

I dunno the light temps, but it says this.

The Cool Light mode reduces the orange mask that is present in color negative film like CineStill 800T, 400D, and 50D, providing color balanced scans with better color separation and less noise.

The White Light mode is ideal for scanning black and white film, as well as slide film that has been processed with the warm-tone dilution of the CineStill D9 DynamicChrome 1st Developer.

Lastly, the Warm Light mode is perfect for scanning standard E6 (or CineStill D6 DaylightChrome) processed slide film, as the tungsten-balanced light can produce richer tones and enhanced color separation, especially within the red channel.


When scanning Kodachrome slides, I find the “White Light” mode is best.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...