2018 Lawn and Landscape Thread

[cactusflinthead 27598]

1) How is the StA? If it's doing well generally with some stray weeds skip the pre until football season and hit them with a post emergent spray. Use the lower rate of the 2,4-d blends. If it has had the funk in the past skip the fert too except for micros and sulfur. Ironite is ok. If it's mess of shit everywhere go a lighter rate of pre along with the post.

2) hack'em if they need it. No worries. They can handle some fert. Keep an eye out for the virus. Will post pix of it again. I haven't heard of it in the Big Country or the Permian but it's a matter of time. 

3) stick a shovel in the dirt and see what it is doing. You are probably right in the proper range. Timing is good. That gives it time to dry off the leaves. If it isn't stressed out from drought, let it ride.

[Assman 1830]

Thanks for the help.

The St Augustine is generally pretty healthy but has developed some brown patches the last couple years. This is turf we laid 3 years ago. I read about the Take All Root Rot and aggy suggests a fungicide for prevention and a fertilizer high in ammonium sulfate for control. According to their chart, a thiophanate-methyl fungicide like Scott's Lawn Fungus Control should be safe to apply in the heat. And then any generic ammonium sulfate should do. Thoughts?

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[cactusflinthead 27598]

T-methyl is what I use most often. Myclobutanil and propiconazole are also on the rec list. Peat moss at about 2.2 ft³ bale per 1000ft² has had good results too. We are still trying to figure out why. I can put out exactly how much fungicide I want, the hose end sprayer are factory set. I will have to dig through the label to figure out what rate they s are selling you. The ammonium sulfate, the 21-0-0 stuff is fine, but I would not push it too hard. Give it a light feeding and see how it responds. 

 

 

[cactusflinthead 27598]

That's a pretty good sample of what Rose Rosette disease does. It miniaturizes everything into what is called a 'witches broom'. Knockout roses are highly susceptible. Trimming them does not get rid of it. There is no cure. If you see one acting like the pic, rip it out with extreme prejudice. It's best to put a big ass contractor bag over it, saw it off and then then dig up the stump. The bag is to contain the vector, a very small critter called an eriophyid mite. They will stand on their butts, put their arms in the air and float away  on a piece of dust. We are still trying to find a good way of managing them. I have some theories on it, but I haven't seen any movement from these folks on the subject

https://www.facebook.com/CombatingRoseRosette/

Edited May 22, 2018 by cactusflinthead

[cactusflinthead 27598]

ok, here's the label for Bayer Advanced Fungicide

https://www.bayeradvanced.com/~/media/BayerAdvanced/Product Labels/Fungus-Control-10lb.ashx

The active ingredient is propiconazole. At their highest recommended rate of this granular product it is only putting out

3.5 lbs x .051 (.51%) =.1785lbs/1000ft²

the pro stuff, Banner is 14.3% at the rate for Take all and other baddies it is 4oz per thousand 4x.143 =.572lbs

see where i am going? I can't recommend that you triple the label on the Bayer stuff, because that would be illegal

No, I would never do that. At all. 

[Assman 1830]

But the fungicide is a preventative only, correct?  At this stage, I should stick to the peat moss or ammonium sulfate?  I think I'll start with the peat moss and see how it does.

[cactusflinthead 27598]

that's because they won't let them label it at the curative rate. The peat moss has had just as good results and a bale of peat is definitely cheaper than a bag of the fungicide. The peat might last up to 2 years.  The labor for me or a crew to put it out is cost prohibitive commercially, but at the house you are dealing with a much smaller area. 

Here's the most recent I know on peat and Take all. There may be other updates. 

PEATMOSS TOPDRESSING CONTROL OF TAKE-ALL ROOT ROT ON ST. AUGUSTINE GRASS Phillip F. Colbaugh, Xikui Wei. and Jim McAfee Texas A&M Research Center at Dallas April, 2003

Quote

Take-all root rot (TARR) of St Augustine grass has emerged as a major problem on landscapes in Texas as well as other states along the Gulf Coast including Florida. The disease is caused by Gaeumannomyces graminis var. graminis, which belongs to the ETRIF pathogen group. The brown-black mycelial growth of the fungus (Fig.1) colonizes roots, stolons and shoots but it is primarily a root destroying pathogen. Damaging effects of this disease on St. Augustine grass were first observed and described in Texas by Dr. Joseph Krausz (plant pathologist at Texas A&M University) and in Florida by Dr. Monica Elliott (University of Florida). In a 1999 survey of St. Augustine grass lawns in north Dallas, we observed yellow patch symptoms (Fig. 3) of the disease on 61% of 70 lawns during the month of September. If this disease progresses it kills the stolons and produces patches of dead grass during summer ranging from 3-10 ft in diameter. Because of the widespread nature of this disease, our research investigations sought to develop a practical control measure for landscapes with St. Augustine grass lawns.

Quote

Affected patches of turf can at first be quite small ranging from 1-2 feet in diameter; however, they also appear as larger areas that can range from 5-10 feet in diameter. Diseased areas are not always circular but often appear as roughly circular patterns in the lawn. In our 2002 TARR survey on North Dallas lawns, we observed a higher number of take-all symptoms in heavily shaded areas compared to areas receiving direct sunlight or partial shade for most of the day (Fig. 5). TARR disease should not be confused with white grub damage which can also appear at the same time of the year. The best clue is to look for the yellow or chlorotic leaf extensions (fig. 3) on St. Augustine grass turf that has not received mowing for several days. Symptoms of TARR disease also include the appearance of brown shriveled roots that are killed by the fungus as opposed to white grub damage where the roots are actually removed by insect feeding.

 

Edited May 22, 2018 by cactusflinthead

[cactusflinthead 27598]

Well, they got that grant money

and I hope they spent it well

Source: TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY submitted to 

DISEASES OF TURFGRASSES AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS OF THE SOUTHERN UNITED STATES

Sponsoring Institution

National Institute of Food and Agriculture

Project Status

TERMINATED

Funding Source

HATCH

Reporting Frequency

Annual

Accession No.

0154130

Grant No.

(N/A)

Project No.

TEX08095

Proposal No.

(N/A)

Multistate No.

(N/A)

Program Code

(N/A)

Project Start Date

Jan 12, 2004

Project End Date

Nov 30, 2009

Grant Year

(N/A)

Project Director
COLBAUGH, P. F.

Recipient Organization
TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY 
750 AGRONOMY RD STE 2701 
COLLEGE STATION,TX 77843-0001

Quote

Progress 01/12/04 to 11/30/09

Outputs
Field and laboratory investigations evaluated various acidic peat moss products for controlling turfgrass diseases caused by ectotrophic root infecting fungi. This project was an extension of the success we have had with a similar program used on Dallas area homelawns to control Take-all root rot of St. Augustinegrass. Research cooperators from five states were selected to determine benefits of peat moss topdressings in different turf situations and on three turfgrass species during 2005 and 2006. Field trials were conducted on golf courses, city parks, sod farms, and home lawns in using the topdressing method for fungal disease control. Observations and results with fall or spring topdressing applications were finalized during the fall of 2006. Research trials in Texas, Colorado, Mississippi, Florida, and Alabama indicated varying success in the control of different types of ETRIF diseases depending on how the treatments were applied and also on the turfgrass species and pathogen combination under study. The use of sphagnum peat moss performed better than fungicide treatment on several locations. Best use of this program is to incorporate the topdressing into the root zone but several stages are presumed necessary to convert diseased areas to healthy turf to be sustained by the acidic peat moss treatments.

Impacts
Research on the use of acidic peatmoss for turfgrass disease control has been completed in five states on various turfgrass field plots, gold courses, city parks and turfgrass sod farms. We have given good evidence that applications of the acidic peat can overcome many types of diseases caused by ectotrophic root infecting fungi. This program impacts lawngrasses used throughout the Southern States and also golf courses using using ultradwarf bermudagrass greens.

 

[Assman 1830]

Suggestions for a flowering shrub that does well in the shade and can be kept somewhat small?  I'm talking no more than 3' tall and 2' wide.  We started with Knockouts in this spot, but there wasn't enough sun so we transplanted those and tried Lantana but had the same issue with not enough sun.

[cactusflinthead 27598]

That's called a unicorn. 

I'll reply more substantively later, but what you have described is among the most sought after plants. And other than a few limited options it doesn't exist.

Azaleas. For shrubs that bloom dependably in the shade that's one of the better options and in many places it can be a high maintenance plant in the outset. 

Hydrangeas. Too big

Camellias. Same.

Hosta. Not exactly a shrub.

Astilbe. Nope. Not a shrub either.

Edited May 22, 2018 by cactusflinthead
Mo stuff

[Assman 1830]

17 minutes ago, cactusflinthead said:

That's called a unicorn. 

Is this a perennial or an annual?  Sounds beautiful.

[Assman 1830]

21 minutes ago, cactusflinthead said:

That's called a unicorn. 

I'll reply more substantively later, but what you have described is among the most sought after plants. And other than a few limited options it doesn't exist.

Azaleas. For shrubs that bloom dependably in the shade that's one of the better options and in many places it can be a high maintenance plant in the outset. 

Hydrangeas. Too big

Camellias. Same.

Hosta. Not exactly a shrub.

Astilbe. Nope. Not a shrub either.

Maybe shrub was the wrong term.  Just something to take up space that thrives in shade and has a bit of color.   Would also prefer something hassle-free and that will survive a Big Country summer.

Edited May 22, 2018 by Assman
more unicorn requests

[Red Sundance 6]

On 5/19/2018 at 5:30 PM, DanRydell said:

Any tips on getting rid of this shit? It grows to this height in about a week. I’ve managed to kill it with one of those weed (but not grass) killers that hooks into the garden hose a few different times but it only stays dead for like 4-6 weeks before coming back.

I seriously thought this was a pic of my yard. I hate this shit. I’ve had some luck with Image in the past but now I’m worried it’s too hot and it’ll kill what little grass I have growing. 

[swraith 345]

Suggestions for a flowering shrub that does well in the shade and can be kept somewhat small?  I'm talking no more than 3' tall and 2' wide.  We started with Knockouts in this spot, but there wasn't enough sun so we transplanted those and tried Lantana but had the same issue with not enough sun.

Soft caress mahonia

[swraith 345]

The St Augustine has begun to grow with gusto. Here is my best effort to take care of the lawn in the last 4 years.

[cactusflinthead 27598]

The thing about flowering perennial plants is they have a season of blooms and other times of the year when they don't do shit. A spot that might be deep shade in July under a big deciduous tree might get some sun in January. Daffodils work great as sleeper cells of color in shady spots like that. Think of it like a parade; early, middle, and late. A Lenten rose is great in deep shady spots but it is hanging on for dear life in July if it hasn't said "fuck you.  I am going to sleep." Peonies make some outstanding flowers but they are barely awake in early spring.

Azaleas can be an ocean of color, but you have to make them a spot that they like. Cold is not a problem typically with them, but woe unto you if you chuck them in shitty unamended soil. If you happen to live in the Big Piney Woods, you can plunk them in that acidic sand and they are happy with no help at all. But, the alkaline soils are not their friends. 

Is there room for an understory tree like a Japanese maple? Can I put a backdrop of Cast iron plants and put my colors in front?

I'll dig into it again in a few 

[cactusflinthead 27598]

 I can't remember how many people have come to me back when I was in the retail game asking for a plant that gets about 2-3 feet tall, blooms, stays green all the time,  and does it in the shade. 

I sat there in the truck and looked at the question and it was like a program started running in my head. There it is again. The endless search for a blue rose and shade flowers.

I am going to resist the urge to muse on the vastness of the plant world and try to focus on some that I know by heart.

dwf. mexican petunia, will reseed like mad. It is slower in full shade, but it still blooms

Turk's cap, what an absolutely shitty picture. 

Azaleas, leaving this one unless somebody really wants to. I mean you gotta want this one. 

hosta, one of a bazillion varieties

Lenten rose/helleborus. not used much in Texas, but should be

dead nettle/lamium, be forewarned it can take off and be aggressive

hydrangea, again another acidic soil lover, treat it kindly and it will shine

columbine, kinda sorta perennial. More like a biennial that reseeds fairly readily

Astilbe, mostly shades of red and some white like this one.

camellia and gardenias are in the same acid loving group as azaleas. If you want to make the commitment to doing the prep work or if you are lucky enough to have a slightly acidic sandy soil they are the top of the heap for shade color. The deeper the shade the slower everything grows. I have omitted the foliage type stuff. The cast iron plants swraith has up against the wall live up to their name. Ferns can make it in West Texas too if you have them in a shady kinda damp spot. There are actually a few stands of native Mexican shield ferns that I know of in the hills south of Abilene near some springs. The holly ferns have become naturalized in FW growing out of the limestone in every crevice they can latch onto in the Japanese Garden. God only knows how many maples there are in that place. Japanese yew, Aucuba, Fatsia, nandinas and a shit load of hollies. That stuff is the foundation and filler for the flowering stuff. The goal is to have something happening all the time, not necessarily all at once. The daffodils are going to bloom in spring and that's it. Azaleas have their season and camellias and gardenias theirs. 

Ok, enough of this rambling

[Anastasis 23457]

That bluestem shit is my nemesis right now. 

[woohorn 1131]

Is there a dwarf Texas sage? I guess it might not work in shade. NM.

[KYHorn 17011]

Hoping for some help identifying the types of grass in these pics. The first two are good 😃 and the last 3 are bad 😓. All taken in my small backyard.

I used pre-emergent for bad #1 in  early to mid spring, but I didn't reapply and it has spread pretty bad  into my good grass. I believe the good grass is a mix of tall fescue, fine fescue, and bluegrass, but would appreciate any corrections on that. I don't really know anything about bad #1, but I think being more consistent with pre-emergent and feed for the good grass will take care of it. Bad #2 I am fairly sure is creeping charlie and/or wild violet. It has taken over, but I hit it with some Triclopyr in early spring and that did a pretty good job of knocking some out. It has reappeared already, but I hit it with more Triclopyr right after this was taken and I have some Monterey Spurge Power stuff that I'm gonna hit it with if that doesn't do it (https://www.ebay.com/itm/152864103802). Bad #3 I think can be taken out with the same stuff.

So- any corrections or suggestions for the identifications or this plan of action? Thanks for any help!

Spoiler

Good #1

Spoiler

Good #2. Probably one of the best areas in the yard. Would love to fill the yard with this. 

Spoiler

Bad #1.What kind is this?

Spoiler

Bad #2. I believe this is creeping charlie and/or wild violet. 

Spoiler

Bad #3. Not sure what the bigger-leafed ones are, but believe they fall under the broadleaf category and will be killed by triclopyr. 

 

Edited May 24, 2018 by KYHorn
Fixed picture links... hopefully.

[TexasEd 8066]

3 hours ago, KYHorn said:

Hoping for some help identifying the types of grass in these pics. The first two are good 😃 and the last 3 are bad 😓. All taken in my small backyard.

I used pre-emergent for bad #1 in  early to mid spring, but I didn't reapply and it has spread pretty bad  into my good grass. I believe the good grass is a mix of tall fescue, fine fescue, and bluegrass, but would appreciate any corrections on that. I don't really know anything about bad #1, but I think being more consistent with pre-emergent and feed for the good grass will take care of it. Bad #2 I am fairly sure is creeping charlie and/or wild violet. It has taken over, but I hit it with some Triclopyr in early spring and that did a pretty good job of knocking some out. It has reappeared already, but I hit it with more Triclopyr right after this was taken and I have some Monterey Spurge Power stuff that I'm gonna hit it with if that doesn't do it (https://www.ebay.com/itm/152864103802). Bad #3 I think can be taken out with the same stuff.

So- any corrections or suggestions for the identifications or this plan of action? Thanks for any help!

  Hide contents

 

Good #1

  Reveal hidden contents

Good #2. Probably one of the best areas in the yard. Would love to fill the yard with this. 

  Hide contents

Bad #1.What kind is this?

  Hide contents

Bad #2. I believe this is creeping charlie and/or wild violet. 

  Hide contents

Bad #3. Not sure what the bigger-leafed ones are, but believe they fall under the broadleaf category and will be killed by triclopyr. 

 

CSS  (Can't see shit)

[KYHorn 17011]

3 minutes ago, TexasEd said:

CSS  (Can't see shit)

Hell. I was afraid of that. First time posting my own pictures. I used Google photos, do I have to use some other site?

[KYHorn 17011]

10 hours ago, TexasEd said:

CSS  (Can't see shit)

Fixed, I think.

[ZB'Tejas 593]

Looking for some help/advice on my yard... First, I’m not even sure what type of grass this is.(someone said maybe buffalo grass)


I have several areas I’m looking to improve. Bare spot:

And then some yellow area where I guess the dog was shitting

I read this grass may not do well with a fertilizer so was a bit hesitant to try anything without some expert advice.

I’ve also noticed several patches of clover... what’s the best way to get rid of those?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZB'Tejas 593]

Also, anyone know what this is? It has rather large thorns



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TexasEd 8066]

On 5/23/2018 at 4:36 PM, KYHorn said:

Hoping for some help identifying the types of grass in these pics. The first two are good 😃 and the last 3 are bad 😓. All taken in my small backyard.

I used pre-emergent for bad #1 in  early to mid spring, but I didn't reapply and it has spread pretty bad  into my good grass. I believe the good grass is a mix of tall fescue, fine fescue, and bluegrass, but would appreciate any corrections on that. I don't really know anything about bad #1, but I think being more consistent with pre-emergent and feed for the good grass will take care of it. Bad #2 I am fairly sure is creeping charlie and/or wild violet. It has taken over, but I hit it with some Triclopyr in early spring and that did a pretty good job of knocking some out. It has reappeared already, but I hit it with more Triclopyr right after this was taken and I have some Monterey Spurge Power stuff that I'm gonna hit it with if that doesn't do it (https://www.ebay.com/itm/152864103802). Bad #3 I think can be taken out with the same stuff.

So- any corrections or suggestions for the identifications or this plan of action? Thanks for any help!

  Hide contents

Good #1

  Hide contents

Good #2. Probably one of the best areas in the yard. Would love to fill the yard with this. 

  Hide contents

Bad #1.What kind is this?

  Hide contents

Bad #2. I believe this is creeping charlie and/or wild violet. 

  Hide contents

Bad #3. Not sure what the bigger-leafed ones are, but believe they fall under the broadleaf category and will be killed by triclopyr. 

 

Your good grass looks like a fescue.

Bad 1 looks like Dallisgrass or crabgrass.  It is young so harder to tell until it matures.  Pull it.

Bad 2 and 3 looks like horse herb and dollar weed.

[TexasEd 8066]

9 hours ago, ZB'Tejas said:

Looking for some help/advice on my yard... First, I’m not even sure what type of grass this is.(someone said maybe buffalo grass)


I have several areas I’m looking to improve. Bare spot:

And then some yellow area where I guess the dog was shitting

I read this grass may not do well with a fertilizer so was a bit hesitant to try anything without some expert advice.

I’ve also noticed several patches of clover... what’s the best way to get rid of those?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

looks like a zoysia variety with pee stains in it.

[KYHorn 17011]

On 5/24/2018 at 9:24 AM, ZB'Tejas said:

I’ve also noticed several patches of clover... what’s the best way to get rid of those?

I've had great success with triclopyr for clover. In particular, this product:

https://m.lowes.com/pd/ORTHO-16-fl-oz-Chickweed-Clover-and-Oxalis-Killer/4067446?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-LawnGarden-_-GrassAndWeedChemicals-_-4067446:ORTHO&CAWELAID=&kpid=4067446&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=607&k_clickID=eb481ff6-7fde-4853-b5b8-d10fc7c4b504&gclid=CjwKCAjwxZnYBRAVEiwANMTRX10BmrMUejUuXsNNDAmPU75PPq_87cHqs5KHnR8Snq5DlpE_DlleGxoCHqYQAvD_BwE 

 

Edited May 25, 2018 by KYHorn
speeling

[Eastwood 4394]

Also, anyone know what this is? It has rather large thorns



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like bougainvillea that isn't flowering. Is that area shaded? Bougainvillea has a hard time flowering in the shade.

[cactusflinthead 27598]

Deciding between fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is difficult. One has 'grasping ligules' and one has an acuminate tip and the other is more boat shaped. Got dam pain in the ass. Fescue does not spread by runners/stolons. Bluegrass does, but slower than zoysia or bermuda. I'd have to root around with the ID chart and specs for any certainty.
Betting the grassy bad one is a crabgrass.
The broadleaf ones I would hit first with the 2,4-d blend and if there are survivors hit them with triclopyr.

[cactusflinthead 27598]

Looks like bougainvillea that isn't flowering. Is that area shaded? Bougainvillea has a hard time flowering in the shade.

Correct

[cactusflinthead 27598]

looks like a zoysia variety with pee stains in it.

Also correct

[KYHorn 17011]

32 minutes ago, cactusflinthead said:

Deciding between fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is difficult. One has 'grasping ligules' and one has an acuminate tip and the other is more boat shaped. Got dam pain in the ass. Fescue does not spread by runners/stolons. Bluegrass does, but slower than zoysia or bermuda. I'd have to root around with the ID chart and specs for any certainty.
Betting the grassy bad one is a crabgrass.
The broadleaf ones I would hit first with the 2,4-d blend and if there are survivors hit them with triclopyr.

Glad even experts have a hard time telling the difference, because I couldn't figure it out. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

[ZB'Tejas 593]

2 hours ago, Eastwood said:

15 hours ago, ZB said:

Also, anyone know what this is? It has rather large thorns



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Read more  

Looks like bougainvillea that isn't flowering. Is that area shaded? Bougainvillea has a hard time flowering in the shade.

It's on the East Side of the house so gets plenty of morning sun through mid-day. It was cut down in the winter so this is all new Spring growth. I've heard this is more of a tropical plant... ok in Austin? I was considering pulling this out and planting Star of Jasmine to grow against the fence. This is next to a pool if that matters. My concern is the big thorns that are on this thing.

[Eastwood 4394]

47 minutes ago, ZB'Tejas said:

It's on the East Side of the house so gets plenty of morning sun through mid-day. It was cut down in the winter so this is all new Spring growth. I've heard this is more of a tropical plant... ok in Austin? I was considering pulling this out and planting Star of Jasmine to grow against the fence. This is next to a pool if that matters. My concern is the big thorns that are on this thing.

I had one that only got morning sun for most of the summer and it wasn't until it got at least 8 hours of sun that it started blooming and even then it was lackluster. I'll defer to the experts on whether or not to yank it, though.

[cactusflinthead 27598]

It's on the East Side of the house so gets plenty of morning sun through mid-day. It was cut down in the winter so this is all new Spring growth. I've heard this is more of a tropical plant... ok in Austin? I was considering pulling this out and planting Star of Jasmine to grow against the fence. This is next to a pool if that matters. My concern is the big thorns that are on this thing.

I know of one in north FW that has survived for several years. Dies down and comes back strong, blooms are not impressive. It can be trimmed hard. They do best in the full sun with the least amount of water possible. Stress helps promote blooming.

 

If you believe that plants have a response to human speech this one is one you cuss. Threaten it with doom. "If I don't see some flowers soon you are going in the compost pile." Or so the old woman told me.

 

I just put them in the worst conditions imaginable and generally ignore it until it demonstrably wilts. Hacking at will if it gets in the way. It gets little to no fertilizer.

 

Digging it up now will be easier than later.

[Bogeywon 2519]

checking in from michigan 

[Spaulding Smails 1552]

Very nice, @Bogeywon.  Bluegrass?  Rye?  I know nothing of northern climate turf varietals.  

[Spaulding Smails 1552]

Probably the last decent week for my lawn before the heat really sets in.  Zoysia Palisades in Dripping Springs.  

[TXs 226]

15 minutes ago, Spaulding Smails said:

Probably the last decent week for my lawn before the heat really sets in.  Zoysia Palisades in Dripping Springs.  

Nice. Are those mostly live oaks. 

[Assman 1830]

Both sides of our yard are lined with mature Indian Hawthornes that are probably 12' tall or so.  Last year, one died so I cut it down flush with the ground.  Yesterday, I bought another to replace it.  I dug a hole about 1.5" deep and hit a pretty big root (probably 3" diameter) from the old tree.  We're pretty limited on space so there's really no where else I can plant this thing.  So will having a root directly under the new tree stunt its growth? 

[cactusflinthead 27598]

An inch and a half deep? If that's accurate it will not be good. Have had to cut out chunks of old stumps to replant. A foot and a half is fine, less than 6" is pushing it.

Edited May 26, 2018 by cactusflinthead

[Both Tacos 1806]

105 mother f'ing bags of mulch spread today. Yes, they were on sale. I don't want to see another bag of mulch for a long time, except that even with that many bags the trees didn't get mulched. So I still need 7 more bags to finish up. Damn it...

[Assman 1830]

1 hour ago, cactusflinthead said:

An inch and a half deep? If that's accurate it will not be good. Have had to cut out chunks of old stumps to replant. A foot and a half is fine, less than 6" is pushing it.

The hole itself is 1.5' deep, which is where I hit the root that runs from one side to the other.  The hole is just deep enough to plant the new tree, but it is basically resting on top of that old root.  Is this ok?

[cactusflinthead 27598]

Yeah, it should be fine. The vast majority of the work of the roots is happening near the surface. It won't be the first time something was planted that way. 

[Spaulding Smails 1552]

14 hours ago, TXs said:

Nice. Are those mostly live oaks. 

Yessir.  In that picture, they're all live oaks except for one red oak that lost it's two primary branches.  Kind of janky-looking dead center.  We have several more red oaks, a hand full of american elms, a couple of black walnuts and a few escarpment black cherries down the back of the hill as well.  Love the diversity of the trees in this area.

[cactusflinthead 27598]

Cool things: coming back to a property you haven't seen in a few years and things you planted are doing well. Hibiscus doubled in size. Cuban ginger taking over its territory. 

Not so cool to downright shitty:

Nine kinds of treesand shrubs blended with the beds that should have been dug up years ago. 

Rose virus rampant and in the later stages. 

Dead plants all over the porch with their replacements quietly rotting away while they await someone to plant them.

Big bunch of dead shit everywhere. 

It is going to take several whacks. 

Mo money in the meantime 

[swraith 345]

105 mother f'ing bags of mulch spread today. Yes, they were on sale. I don't want to see another bag of mulch for a long time, except that even with that many bags the trees didn't get mulched. So I still need 7 more bags to finish up. Damn it...

Holy fuck. 105? I did 28 this morning and that damn near wiped me out. 105.... going to need a lot of beer after that.

[Both Tacos 1806]

Holy fuck. 105? I did 28 this morning and that damn near wiped me out. 105.... going to need a lot of beer after that.

Yep, started with 75 which is a pallet and 10 bags thinking that was enough....nope, at 7:30 I was back up at Lowes to get 30 more. My boy did help for about an hour of getting them from the trailer to spots in the flowerbed and he said he was going inside for a bit. Never saw him again.
That's what I get for having a long ass home and a wife that wants a huge flowerbed from one end of the house to the other.

[BearSchlong 8083]

I ordered a dump truck full of mulch once, mulched everything and had a lot left over. Cedar bark. Spread the rest around my slab next to the outside walls. My thinking was that cedar would repel insects.

Am I wrong?