2018 Lawn and Landscape Thread

[AUinHsv 579]

On 6/8/2018 at 8:58 AM, ZB'Tejas said:

First time with an actual lawn and I'm starting to learn a lot. My backyard is mostly Zoysia grass but there are a few areas where Bermuda is starting to spread. I've looked at numerous sites to see what can help beat back the Bermuda but so much is dependent on location and time of year. Wanted to hear from everyone here in central Texas on any tricks or things you might have done to help the Zoysia win.

Never found a good way and never saw the zoysia win....  The only thing that seemed to work was a small shovel and digging up the roots and using a small application to apply roundup only on bermuda

[kevwun 15774]

I started with a couple like that a few years ago.  They are some sort of red oak, the best I can tell.  One of them is thriving and is about 6' tall now.  The other keeps dying and coming back as a shoot.

[woohorn 1131]

The only thing that seemed to work was a small shovel and digging up the roots and using a small application to apply roundup only on bermuda

I've got bermuda runners that seem to go on forever. How good do you figure the roundup is? If I get some of the leaves wet, you figure it will kill all the roots in that plant, or just the nearby ones?

[TXs 226]

I love and hate bermuda. 

Love it because it will fill in dead spots on it's own.

Hate it because it will invade anywhere you don't want it to invade. 

Re: ZB'Tejas --I'm not sure if you have bermuda and Zoysia, or if you're just trying to get rid of any bermuda. If the former dig a trench where you want the bermuda to stop and constantly weed wack it. If the latter then roundup will kill it (yes it will send the chemical to the roots). 

Edited July 6, 2018 by TXs

[chikin23 384]

While on the Bermuda topic... Neighbor has st Augustine, I've got Bermuda. They are slowly creeping together (his side yard and my front yard butt up against each other). Anyway to keep them from crossing over or is it just inevitable?

[AUinHsv 579]

not an expert but think it is inevitable since bermuda can spread from the mower clippings

[kevwun 15774]

I have some old native bermuda in places in my yard and the St. Augustine seems to be winning wherever they meet.

[chikin23 384]

Any idea what this is and how to get rid of it?

 

 

[cactusflinthead 27598]

Nutgrass. Sledgehammer or Certainty

Dog piss burn spot 

[McFly 606]

I concur

[Wally Pryor 5261]

Need about 3 yards of pea gravel delivered, southwest.  I think there's a few places out near Dripping but recommendation(s) please.  

[Spaulding Smails 1552]

1 hour ago, Wally Pryor said:

Need about 3 yards of pea gravel delivered, southwest.  I think there's a few places out near Dripping but recommendation(s) please.  

Daniel Stone is probably your best bet.  On 290 in Cedar Valley.  They're not the cheapest around, but will be the easiest for that small of an amount.

[texhorn 351]

Fucking nutsedge.


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[TXs 226]

2 hours ago, texhorn said:

Fucking nutsedge.


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This. I invested in some Celsius after seeing @cactusflinthead recommend it. Shit is legit. One of the best lawncare investment I made. Nukes everything. 

[Washpark 176]

12 hours ago, Wally Pryor said:

Need about 3 yards of pea gravel delivered, southwest.  I think there's a few places out near Dripping but recommendation(s) please.  

I have a whole backyard of pea gravel that I want to get rid of. Gladly, let anyone take it 

[GottaB 594]

This thing. I don’t like it. What’s the smartest strategy? Beavis and Butthead style cut near the bottom?

[TexasEd 8066]

That's a Crepe Myrtle.

• You can top it so it stays below the roof line, that is common.
• You can cut it at the ground and it will come back like a new young plant.
• You can list it on craigslist freecycle and someone will probably come dig it up and haul it off. 

[cactusflinthead 27598]

There's also the option of trimming off some of the bottom branches and letting the top go. It's easy to keep it off the house. If there's another spot where you can move it they are fairly easy to transplant. 

[Spaulding Smails 1552]

I have four fig trees that I planted when we moved in last spring.  They were in 1 gal pots.  Minimal growth in year one and the same in year two.  They have plenty of foliage, but aren't growing any larger.  I've tried more water, less water, tree fertilizer.  No noticeable impact on anything.  They're planted in well-draining soil, get full sun and have good mulch around them.  I made sure that the root ball was slightly above grade when I planted and I've kept the roots clear from too much mulch.  Any idea why they're not growing?  Anything I can do differently to promote growth?

[cactusflinthead 27598]

Not really. iirc they are oaks? Their lifespan is in centuries. They are still in the seedling stage. Right now they are growing roots. That's their best strategy as a plant adapted to a semi-arid regions. New growth of leaves has to be supported by the root system. Every leaf is a little water pump. No leaves unless the tree thinks it's got enough resources to support them.

It is much like that with many perennials. Old gardening lady mantra 

First year they sleep 

Second year they creep 

Third year they leap (got dam autocorrect)

Trees have a longer lifespan so expand each of those into zones. Early, middle and late. Some trees are astounding in their lifespan. ~5k for bristlecone pines. Single specimen long lived trees can take a while to kick in to high gear and even then it seems slow to our haste.

Think ents and hobbits. Tiny acorn takes a while to become stately oak

Edited July 15, 2018 by cactusflinthead

[Anastasis 23469]

On 7/14/2018 at 12:27 PM, GottaB said:

This thing. I don’t like it. What’s the smartest strategy? Beavis and Butthead style cut near the bottom?

LOL.  You will never kill that motherfucker. 

 

Cockroaches and crype myrtles gonna be all that's left on this rock at the end.

 

[GottaB 594]

There's also the option of trimming off some of the bottom branches and letting the top go. It's easy to keep it off the house. If there's another spot where you can move it they are fairly easy to transplant. 

We don’t like it. I’d like it gone. I don’t know if I trust someone to dig next to the house.

[ChickenSandwich 9833]

4 minutes ago, GottaB said:

 

 

We don’t like it. I’d like it gone. I don’t know if I trust someone to dig next to the house.

 

 

Good news is the roots go straight down making it somewhat easier. 

Sell me a mower and weed eater/edger. Both shit the bed in a two week span. 

[GottaB 594]

I love my Honda mower. Self propelled selectable speed. Mulch or bag.

I almost went with a ryobi or ego mower as the battery stuff is good now. And if you aren’t careful gas can ruin a small motor now.

I do have a ryobi 40v string trimmer. One charge will be enough to clean up the yard twice. The front attachment is eXpand-It compatible so all my attachments from my string trimmer (edger, limb saw, tiller, etc).

[ZB'Tejas 593]

15 hours ago, GottaB said:

 

 

We don’t like it. I’d like it gone. I don’t know if I trust someone to dig next to the house.

 

 

I removed a couple in front of my house a few years ago... I used a chainsaw to take it down as close to the ground as possible then I took some concentrate poison and painted all the stumps where I cut. Killed it down to the roots and then just let it decay over the year or two and you can dig up. Other option is get a stump grinder and take it down below ground level after a few weeks.

[ZB'Tejas 593]

14 hours ago, GottaB said:

I do have a ryobi 40v string trimmer. One charge will be enough to clean up the yard twice. The front attachment is eXpand-It compatible so all my attachments from my string trimmer (edger, limb saw, tiller, etc).

I have an older Ryobi 24V string trimmer that used to work well but now the string replacements I'm buying must not fit right because it lets too much out... always end up with to long of a string and I go through the whole roll quite quickly. Have you seen this? I feel like they might have changed the fit recently.

[Catpfish 618]

15 hours ago, GottaB said:

 

 

We don’t like it. I’d like it gone. I don’t know if I trust someone to dig next to the house.

 

 

The other thing to be aware of is that you will keep getting new plants growing from the roots for the next 4-5 years (at least that's how long it seemed).  You can roundup the new plants pretty easily, but there will be continual supply for a while.  I cut the stump to ground level and then dug it out by hand.

[cactusflinthead 27598]

23 hours ago, Spaulding Smails said:

I have four fig trees that I planted when we moved in last spring.  They were in 1 gal pots.  Minimal growth in year one and the same in year two.  They have plenty of foliage, but aren't growing any larger.  I've tried more water, less water, tree fertilizer.  No noticeable impact on anything.  They're planted in well-draining soil, get full sun and have good mulch around them.  I made sure that the root ball was slightly above grade when I planted and I've kept the roots clear from too much mulch.  Any idea why they're not growing?  Anything I can do differently to promote growth?

That'll learn me to reply before full consciousness/cup of coffee. 

The same rules apply but shorten the lifespan and throw in some cold damage risk. My grandmother's fig repeatedly froze to the ground in the hills south of Abilene. If it's plugging along and last winter didn't kick its ass then carry on. Some fert in the spring and some supplementary water when it's raging hot and it should be fine.

[Chico_SA 521]

Yeah, My Honda variable speed self propel is great.  My house is on a pretty gradual slope so the self propel helps a lot.  I also think I had way too much thatch build up at my old house so I bag a lot.  I have it on the setting where just a little mulching occurs. 

I've been on a STIHL kick as I get rid of my old corded equipment. Blower is awesome.  I'm getting used to edger.  It's kind of a beast compared to the old electric one. 

[krevo 142]

So I'm almost 4 months into my new lawn (Tif419 sod installed 3/22)

The builder did the front yard and I did the back myself.  My front yard is bumpy, uneven, and there are numerous areas 10+sq ft or larger that seemingly havent grown an inch in 4 months.  They are kinda off color, yellow green as opposed to bright or blue green.  I've fertilized twice with Scotts TB (not weed n feed) and had a lot of help early on from spring rain.  I'm wondering if I should go to a higher nitrogen fertilizer or maybe even Scotts Green max to give these areas a surge of growth as they appear to be stunted.  

Oddly enough, the backyard is completely even, no lumps, and looks 10x better than the "professional" install that came with the house.  I have some similar areas that appear not to be growing but a majority of the yard looks dark green and lush.  I've followed the same fertilizing schedule with the back so I'm not really sure where to go from here.  

[cactusflinthead 27598]

Sounds like it's sick. Google bermudagrass decline. The yellowing and lack of growth is the tip off.

[krevo 142]

Is that common with brand new sod?  The info I'm reading on it says its a fungal root rot, is that correct?

[ChickenSandwich 9833]

2 minutes ago, krevo said:

Is that common with brand new sod?  The info I'm reading on it says its a fungal root rot, is that correct?

did up some grass in the bad spots (root, dirt and all) and seal in a zip lock bag.  Take to nursery for diagnosis (sealed bag helps to identify by smell as well)

[Spaulding Smails 1552]

3 hours ago, cactusflinthead said:

That'll learn me to reply before full consciousness/cup of coffee. 

The same rules apply but shorten the lifespan and throw in some cold damage risk. My grandmother's fig repeatedly froze to the ground in the hills south of Abilene. If it's plugging along and last winter didn't kick its ass then carry on. Some fert in the spring and some supplementary water when it's raging hot and it should be fine.

Good feedback.  Thanks as always.  I had one freeze back pretty bad, but it sprouted up from the base of the trunk and has actually been the strongest grower of the four.  I'll give them into next year to see how they perform in a third growing season.  

[cactusflinthead 27598]

5 hours ago, krevo said:

Is that common with brand new sod?  The info I'm reading on it says its a fungal root rot, is that correct?

I'll crank out some links in a bit, but short answer is yes to fungus. Susceptibility varies with cultivar 

Edited July 17, 2018 by cactusflinthead

[TXs 226]

So I'm almost 4 months into my new lawn (Tif419 sod installed 3/22)

The builder did the front yard and I did the back myself.  My front yard is bumpy, uneven, and there are numerous areas 10+sq ft or larger that seemingly havent grown an inch in 4 months.  They are kinda off color, yellow green as opposed to bright or blue green.  I've fertilized twice with Scotts TB (not weed n feed) and had a lot of help early on from spring rain.  I'm wondering if I should go to a higher nitrogen fertilizer or maybe even Scotts Green max to give these areas a surge of growth as they appear to be stunted.  

Oddly enough, the backyard is completely even, no lumps, and looks 10x better than the "professional" install that came with the house.  I have some similar areas that appear not to be growing but a majority of the yard looks dark green and lush.  I've followed the same fertilizing schedule with the back so I'm not really sure where to go from here.  

I'm not sure about TIF but I had some common Bermuda installed that wasn't really coming along. I top dressed with dillo dirt, and it was like crack for it within a week.

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[Spaulding Smails 1552]

18 hours ago, krevo said:

So I'm almost 4 months into my new lawn (Tif419 sod installed 3/22)

The builder did the front yard and I did the back myself.  My front yard is bumpy, uneven, and there are numerous areas 10+sq ft or larger that seemingly havent grown an inch in 4 months.  They are kinda off color, yellow green as opposed to bright or blue green.  I've fertilized twice with Scotts TB (not weed n feed) and had a lot of help early on from spring rain.  I'm wondering if I should go to a higher nitrogen fertilizer or maybe even Scotts Green max to give these areas a surge of growth as they appear to be stunted.  

Oddly enough, the backyard is completely even, no lumps, and looks 10x better than the "professional" install that came with the house.  I have some similar areas that appear not to be growing but a majority of the yard looks dark green and lush.  I've followed the same fertilizing schedule with the back so I'm not really sure where to go from here.  

Cactus can chime in on this, but I've learned through my last two houses that the soil beneath the turf is everything.  It's so disappointing to see 95% of builders scratch the existing dirt that's been trampled during construction then slap sod on it and expect it to grow.  Very few take the time to amend the soil.  Once the sod is down, you have an uphill battle.  From my experience, annual top dressing with high quality soil is about the only way to try to rectify the situation.

[cactusflinthead 27598]

I dug into it again. A good reply is going to be a longcat. 

 

[krevo 142]

1 hour ago, Spaulding Smails said:

Cactus can chime in on this, but I've learned through my last two houses that the soil beneath the turf is everything.  It's so disappointing to see 95% of builders scratch the existing dirt that's been trampled during construction then slap sod on it and expect it to grow.  Very few take the time to amend the soil.  Once the sod is down, you have an uphill battle.  From my experience, annual top dressing with high quality soil is about the only way to try to rectify the situation.

This makes a lot more sense than fungus.  I've noticed when I've pulled up any areas that are yellow or brown thus far (during the heat of the summer), I find hard compacted sandy loam and lots of construction debris - mainly rocks, concrete, mortar from the masonry work.

I'm going to do some light aeration in those areas and top dress this weekend.  I'm almost 100% positive the builder didn't do anything do the soil and didn't follow the proper new sod watering schedule prior to us closing.

[irockalltherocks 55]

12 hours ago, TXs said:

 I top dressed with dillo dirt, and it was like crack for it within a week.


 

Obligatory why don't you just go crap in your yard?

[kevwun 15774]

It was awesome the one year it rained a ton during ACL and all of Zilker park smelled faintly like shit.

[irockalltherocks 55]

1 hour ago, kevwun said:

It was awesome the one year it rained a ton during ACL and all of Zilker park smelled faintly like shit.

Not so awesome: Crystal Nolan is a health professional who flew out from Washington State for the festival. She woke up the following days, in her own words, “bedridden with a sore throat, low-grade temperature, and lethargy.”  Her condition worsened, and her “blotches” turned into leg ulcers, which started to decay. The infection was spreading and worsening. Luckily, she was able to keep her leg with a seven month regimen of steroids. She still has some very visible scars, two years later.

http://austincut.com/2011/07/austins-dirty-secret-dillo-dirt/

 

 

 

[JohnnyShotgun 34]

Thank you for sharing that article! I have always heard that stuff was fantastic to use, but fuck that. I won't be buying Dillo Dirt anytime soon.

[irockalltherocks 55]

I have never used it or similar products myself, and don't really have an opinion as to the overall toxicity of Dillo Dirt. Maybe some of the thread experts could weigh in on this. I would like to know their opinions on sewage sludge.

[Spaulding Smails 1552]

3 hours ago, krevo said:

This makes a lot more sense than fungus.  I've noticed when I've pulled up any areas that are yellow or brown thus far (during the heat of the summer), I find hard compacted sandy loam and lots of construction debris - mainly rocks, concrete, mortar from the masonry work.

I'm going to do some light aeration in those areas and top dress this weekend.  I'm almost 100% positive the builder didn't do anything do the soil and didn't follow the proper new sod watering schedule prior to us closing.

Yep.  And the shitty thing is, short of digging it all up, you're pretty much screwed.  

I had one spot at my new house that showed signs of heat stress before anything else last summer.  I put down 2-4" of thunder dirt from GeoGrowers everywhere before sodding.  Evidently, we were light in that area.  I took a sharp shooter and I hit a rock shelf about 4" below surface.  Don't underestimate how much impact that can have on the turf.

[krevo 142]

20 minutes ago, Spaulding Smails said:

Yep.  And the shitty thing is, short of digging it all up, you're pretty much screwed.  

I had one spot at my new house that showed signs of heat stress before anything else last summer.  I put down 2-4" of thunder dirt from GeoGrowers everywhere before sodding.  Evidently, we were light in that area.  I took a sharp shooter and I hit a rock shelf about 4" below surface.  Don't underestimate how much impact that can have on the turf.

Yah, I'm worried I'm going to find a much bigger problem than originally expected.  We planted a couple trees in the back yard quickly discovered the entire yard seems to sit on a clay/caliche soil that seems to get as hard as cement when it's wet.  Couldn't find any black dirt at all after digging 6 holes.  Fuck.

[Horn of Gabriel 1614]

We use Emerald Lawns to manage our program and they just sent me this email blast:

Quote

 

We are currently scheduling our Lunar treatments for the summer.  I wanted to reach out to you and tell you a little more about them.

Lunar is a soil surfactant that drastically reduces runoff and evaporation during your watering cycles.  All golf courses use surfactants as part of their annual regimen and it makes even more sense to use them for our lawns with restricted watering.  The Treatments are completely safe and the price is the same as your regular lawn application.  There are 3 treatments for the summer with each lasting 35 – 45 days and should take us all the way through the dry season.  Lunar treatments are in addition to your regularly scheduled applications.

Benefits:

 

• Increased water use efficiency
• Uniform movement and availability of water, fertilizers and other water soluble materials into and throughout the root zone
• Root zones with vastly improved air-to-water rations
• Reduced moisture stress to turf grass
• Prevention and treatment applications for localized dry spot and water repellent soils
• Improved drainage
• Improved turf resilience and stress tolerance

https://emeraldlawnsaustin.com/services/water-management/

http://www.numeratortech.com/lunar.html

 

Anyone have an opinion on this stuff - does it work?

 

[woohorn 1131]

Yah, I'm worried I'm going to find a much bigger problem than originally expected.  We planted a couple trees in the back yard quickly discovered the entire yard seems to sit on a clay/caliche soil that seems to get as hard as cement when it's wet.  Couldn't find any black dirt at all after digging 6 holes.  Fuck.

I've put down gypsum 3 or 4 times over the years to (try) and breakup the clay under sod some, but there is no way to tell if it has helped. Last time I looked, the research said you had to put it down over three years to do anything. I definitely use it as an amendment with compost when I dig up a wheelbarrow full of clay from the beds though.

Pay someone from craigslist $50 to aerate the yard and top with compost and it will help under sod some.

[TexasEd 8066]

On 7/16/2018 at 1:29 PM, krevo said:

So I'm almost 4 months into my new lawn (Tif419 sod installed 3/22)

The builder did the front yard and I did the back myself.  My front yard is bumpy, uneven, and there are numerous areas 10+sq ft or larger that seemingly havent grown an inch in 4 months.  They are kinda off color, yellow green as opposed to bright or blue green.  I've fertilized twice with Scotts TB (not weed n feed) and had a lot of help early on from spring rain.  I'm wondering if I should go to a higher nitrogen fertilizer or maybe even Scotts Green max to give these areas a surge of growth as they appear to be stunted.  

Oddly enough, the backyard is completely even, no lumps, and looks 10x better than the "professional" install that came with the house.  I have some similar areas that appear not to be growing but a majority of the yard looks dark green and lush.  I've followed the same fertilizing schedule with the back so I'm not really sure where to go from here.  

Stick a pitchfork or a rod into the ground where the slow spots are.  Builder may have covered some debris like a piece or plywood, pile of bricks or extra concrete and then just covered it with a superficial layer of soil or just the sod.

 

 

[TXs 226]

all compost is shit. I don't care what's in it. I just know my bermuda loves it and it works. 

Edited July 18, 2018 by TXs