2018 Lawn and Landscape Thread

[krevo 142]

On 6/15/2020 at 10:10 PM, dad said:

Figured out why one section of my lawn felt hard and clay like and never grew nice grass. Found a huge section of chunks of concrete that the builders must have poured out. Excited that by next spring I’ll start growing new grass that stands a chance.

I've found poured out concrete, large segments of oak trees they cut down, and plywood under dry spots in my lawn.  

Couple of things I'd recommend - a soil probe (basically a big ass spike with a T handle) and a flat bladed landscaping shovel.  I can cut and pull my lawn up, dig out the offending trash left 2" under my sod and then fill in and re-install the same piece of sod almost without noticing it was ever cut up.  

Also - I've been using Penterra to get water down through the dry spots and into the root zone with great success.  You can buy it on Amazon.  Any localized dry spot, or compacted clay on swages or hills - this shit works wonders. https://drylawn.com/water-penetration.html

Its nothing really special compared to most surfactant/wetting agents - its just a helluva lot stronger.  Three treatments on low spots that collect standing water after heavy rain or irrigation and they are gone.  The water absorbs into the soil like its a dry sponge.  It's good shit.

Edited June 22, 2020 by krevo

[Dr Fear 1290]

6 hours ago, Vito Andolini said:

I hope this is the correct forum...

Your boy Ol’ Vito moronically took on the challenge recently of putting in an extra patio and cut a sprinkler PVC line. I actually have two stacked right on top of each other, a 3/4 inch line on top escaped any damage, but it’s the 1” line directly below it that was cut.

(When I say “stacked,” I mean they are almost touching, and this will be an issue later in the post.)

I removed the section of damaged pipe, about 10”, and thought I could put two couplings on either end and a section of new pipe in between, but I’m doubtful there’s enough play in the pipe on either side to insert the new section. Perhaps it could be done with a lot more digging. I did see a video where a guy accomplishes this by removing the stop inside one of the couplings, but I may not even have room to do that due to the proximity of Pipe #2.

So I bought a telescoping coupling that would ordinarily work, but jeez it has an enormous body, and I really doubt it will have space to fit, since agan, the asshole landscaping company put the 3/4” line right on top of the 1”.

I know the damaged 1” is a pressurized water line... is the 3/4” the same, or is there a chance it’s just a drain line? I’m asking because I may solve my issue by cutting out a section of the 3/4” line and putting in a flexible line to give me room for the telescoping coupling on the 1” below, but the specs say those flexible lines can’t be used for constant pressure, so I don’t want to create a new issue.

Happy to hear any advice, thanks in advance.

You got a pic?  I have had this problem before with a smaller pipe, you can put 90 degree elbows on the 2 ends of the cut pipe, aiming them up as much as you can, then drop in your new pipe (also with elbows on the end) running along side sort of like a splint.  Any more digging would be parallel to the big pipe.  You could also do the same thing with the 3/4 line giving you more room to play with the bigger one.

Edited June 22, 2020 by Dr Fear

[Vito Andolini 9448]

38 minutes ago, Dr Fear said:

You got a pic?  I have had this problem before with a smaller pipe, you can put 90 degree elbows on the 2 ends of the cut pipe, aiming them up as much as you can, then drop in your new pipe (also with elbows on the end) running along side sort of like a splint.  Any more digging would be parallel to the big pipe.  You could also do the same thing with the 3/4 line giving you more room to play with the bigger one.

Yeah, that was my initial thought, then I realized (as you explained) that involves two elbows on each end, but I’m not sure I was thinking parallel, which is way smarter and keeps the water level consistent. I’ll consider that, thank you!

[cactusflinthead 27627]

15 hours ago, LABEVO said:

Having sod laid down this week at house that I rent out. How often / when should it be water? Any other suggestions for the grass to survive?

putting down saint augustine based in Austin. 

Initially you can water it a couple of times a day. Eventually you can go to 2 days a week. It really varies though. If you have a soil that barely holds water you'll have to water more often. Give it a good watering and see how long it takes to get it saturated. Set the clock to that time. You can split the time up. Water, skip an hour and then hit it again. 

7 hours ago, Vito Andolini said:

I hope this is the correct forum...

Your boy Ol’ Vito moronically took on the challenge recently of putting in an extra patio and cut a sprinkler PVC line. I actually have two stacked right on top of each other, a 3/4 inch line on top escaped any damage, but it’s the 1” line directly below it that was cut.

(When I say “stacked,” I mean they are almost touching, and this will be an issue later in the post.)

I removed the section of damaged pipe, about 10”, and thought I could put two couplings on either end and a section of new pipe in between, but I’m doubtful there’s enough play in the pipe on either side to insert the new section. Perhaps it could be done with a lot more digging. I did see a video where a guy accomplishes this by removing the stop inside one of the couplings, but I may not even have room to do that due to the proximity of Pipe #2.

So I bought a telescoping coupling that would ordinarily work, but jeez it has an enormous body, and I really doubt it will have space to fit, since agan, the asshole landscaping company put the 3/4” line right on top of the 1”.

I know the damaged 1” is a pressurized water line... is the 3/4” the same, or is there a chance it’s just a drain line? I’m asking because I may solve my issue by cutting out a section of the 3/4” line and putting in a flexible line to give me room for the telescoping coupling on the 1” below, but the specs say those flexible lines can’t be used for constant pressure, so I don’t want to create a new issue.

Happy to hear any advice, thanks in advance.

3/4" is your lateral line and the 1" is most likely the main. I'm guessing that you discovered them...umm unexpectedly? It's pretty normal to see them stacked like that in the same space. If you can put the telescoping couplings far enough away from the still buried pipe you might have enough flex to squeeze them in.

Compression couplings are slightly smaller in diameter. Maybe. 

You're going to want to pull a head and blow out the dirt from the line after you get it repaired. Greater than zero chance there is a wad of gunk in there.

[Vito Andolini 9448]

5 hours ago, cactusflinthead said:

3/4" is your lateral line and the 1" is most likely the main. I'm guessing that you discovered them...umm unexpectedly? It's pretty normal to see them stacked like that in the same space. If you can put the telescoping couplings far enough away from the still buried pipe you might have enough flex to squeeze them in.

I’m really grateful for the advice. I’m presuming a lateral line is not under constant pressure, right? I’m also presuming a flexible PVC isn’t your first choice, but is there a chance it will hold up as a lateral patch?  Sorry for no pics, but I think it could be a solution for my tight fit (that’s what she said). Again, thanks a lot.

[cactusflinthead 27627]

Yeah, the lateral line is only engaged when that valve is opened. It is worth a shot. Hook it all up and let it set. Give it a test before covering it. If it blows out, well then you're not having to dig it up again.

[Francisco 2.0 32587]

Speaking of watering.  Got this for Father's Day:

 

 

Replaced my '97 vintage Rainbird.  From opening box to joining up with app, took half an hour for installation.  Took another 15 minutes or so to test all 10 zones, answer some questions, etc.  Ran last night.  

[Spaulding Smails 1610]

12 hours ago, Francisco 2.0 said:

Speaking of watering.  Got this for Father's Day:

 

 

Replaced my '97 vintage Rainbird.  From opening box to joining up with app, took half an hour for installation.  Took another 15 minutes or so to test all 10 zones, answer some questions, etc.  Ran last night.  

Ooooh.  Me likey.  What brand?

[drt 645]

On 6/21/2020 at 8:50 PM, drt said:

Wtf is wrong with this section of St Augustine right around the tree in our front yard? Been this way since moving in a few months ago, watered and fertilized to no avail. I thought someone just scalped it when we moved in but now I’m not so sure. 

 

@cactusflinthead any ideas on this? It's almost a circle around the tree there, like they treated the root zone of the tree or something.  I didn't think it would be fungus because it hasn't spread to the rest of the yard and that section is slightly elevated so should drain better than surrounding turf.

[Francisco 2.0 32587]

2 hours ago, Spaulding Smails said:

Ooooh.  Me likey.  What brand?

Rachio.  3rd Gen, 16 zone.

https://rachio.com/rachio-3/

 

 

 

[Gourmand 7778]

51 minutes ago, drt said:

@cactusflinthead any ideas on this? It's almost a circle around the tree there, like they treated the root zone of the tree or something.  I didn't think it would be fungus because it hasn't spread to the rest of the yard and that section is slightly elevated so should drain better than surrounding turf.

If you don't think it's brown patch, then maybe a combined effect of shade from the tree canopy and those shallow tree roots competing with the grass roots?

[Dr Fear 1290]

On 6/21/2020 at 8:50 PM, drt said:

Wtf is wrong with this section of St Augustine right around the tree in our front yard? Been this way since moving in a few months ago, watered and fertilized to no avail. I thought someone just scalped it when we moved in but now I’m not so sure. 

 

https://neilsperry.com/2019/05/st-augustine-diagnostics-2/

Try the TARR treatment?

[drt 645]

Yeah I think I'll try some fungicide for TARR, that tree is tall and thin enough that there isn't much shade cover for afternoon sun.  Thanks for the opinions

[cactusflinthead 27627]

3 hours ago, drt said:

@cactusflinthead any ideas on this? It's almost a circle around the tree there, like they treated the root zone of the tree or something.  I didn't think it would be fungus because it hasn't spread to the rest of the yard and that section is slightly elevated so should drain better than surrounding turf.

TARR can be patchy. I have one problem area that is nearly identical. The rest of her yard is fine.

2 hours ago, Dr Fear said:

https://neilsperry.com/2019/05/st-augustine-diagnostics-2/

Try the TARR treatment?

Note: he says "stop the spread"

That's step one, it stops dying. Recovery will take a while. 

The fungicide Azoxystrobin (sold as the consumer product Scotts Disease-EX and commercial product Heritage) does an excellent job of stopping the spread of TARR.

I'll see if I can find some more links on TARR. There are a couple of different replies from previous threads on this mess. 

probably time for a refresher 

[dad 557]

On 6/22/2020 at 8:59 AM, krevo said:

I've found poured out concrete, large segments of oak trees they cut down, and plywood under dry spots in my lawn.  

Couple of things I'd recommend - a soil probe (basically a big ass spike with a T handle) and a flat bladed landscaping shovel.  I can cut and pull my lawn up, dig out the offending trash left 2" under my sod and then fill in and re-install the same piece of sod almost without noticing it was ever cut up.  

Also - I've been using Penterra to get water down through the dry spots and into the root zone with great success.  You can buy it on Amazon.  Any localized dry spot, or compacted clay on swages or hills - this shit works wonders. https://drylawn.com/water-penetration.html

Its nothing really special compared to most surfactant/wetting agents - its just a helluva lot stronger.  Three treatments on low spots that collect standing water after heavy rain or irrigation and they are gone.  The water absorbs into the soil like its a dry sponge.  It's good shit.

Thanks. I went a little happy with the pickaxe and to be honest it was hard to find the outer perimeter of the big ole pieces so i was kind of hacking around looking for it to dig in the pickaxe and dig it out like a fulcrum. I figured either way with this Texas heat it would be hard to get the same piece to survive on top after having experienced the shock of being dug out. Oh well, I don't mind it looking bad in that spot for a while till spring time since I also am killing off a tree trunk that a tornado left after it ripped out my tree. So the lawn basically has a big under construction sign out front lol. 

Thanks for the suggestions on the wetting agents, that sounds cool i'm definitely going to try that. And maybe look into a soil sample tool and find out where to send those off to see what I need. Also i considered aerating now and dropping in some peat moss and sand but I figured with this heat I might just provide holes for moisture to escape too quickly. 

[Enchubben 5600]

20 hours ago, Francisco 2.0 said:

Rachio.  3rd Gen, 16 zone.

https://rachio.com/rachio-3/

 

 

 

I got one about 3 months ago and have been really happy with it. App is great. I haven’t gone through advanced settings per zone and typically use the general settings with additional times added to certain zones where needed. You really can set this one and never pay attention to it again. It accounts for time change, season and weather/rain skip.

[Llano Estacado 1257]

Note: he says "stop the spread"
That's step one, it stops dying. Recovery will take a while. 
The fungicide Azoxystrobin (sold as the consumer product Scotts Disease-EX and commercial product Heritage) does an excellent job of stopping the spread of TARR.
I'll see if I can find some more links on TARR. There are a couple of different replies from previous threads on this mess. 
probably time for a refresher 

All this. Scott DiseaseEX stopped the spread of my multiple TARR spots. Lots of bagging mows when it looked like it was flaring up. Lots of curative dosage. Several preventative dosages on rest of lawn. Several peat moss applications in the worst affected areas.

Unfortunately, I think I finally got it under control when I went to strictly disease ex application over various other fungicides in late fall outside of growing season. Last of my open soil areas finally grew and closed up this May

If you see any lime green leaf areas with brown roots or stolons in other areas of your yard hit that shit quick.

I did a preventative diseaseex application earlier this spring and won’t use any sprayer propiconazole this summer unless the diseaseEx doesn’t keep the nonTARR fungus under control.

[ZB'Tejas 597]

On 6/22/2020 at 7:49 PM, Francisco 2.0 said:

 

Replaced my '97 vintage Rainbird.  From opening box to joining up with app, took half an hour for installation.  Took another 15 minutes or so to test all 10 zones, answer some questions, etc.  Ran last night.  

Was it pretty simple to just switch the wires from the old unit to this one? 

[Francisco 2.0 32587]

6 hours ago, ZB'Tejas said:

Was it pretty simple to just switch the wires from the old unit to this one? 

Honestly, it took longer to open up the Rainbird and document what the wires were than it did to actually install the Rachio and connect the wires.

Here's what I did:

-Took a half dozen or so pictures before I began of the existing wiring.

-Made note on the Rainbird wire loom of the labels (Zone 1, etc)

-Matched up the Zone 1 wire with whatever wire went outdoors (blue, yellow, whatever).  Started a list.  As I disconnected each wire from the Rainbird to the outdoor wire, I labeled each outdoor wire (Zone 1, Zone 2,).

-Hung the Rachio

-Plugged in each of the wires I labeled.

Go here; if you know the model of your existing controller, you may find that someone else has already did an upgrade and has documented it.  Plus any question you may think of might already be answered:

https://community.rachio.com/c/getting-started/23

 

 

 

[Gourmand 7778]

Any suggestions for this? An area of my front lawn on one side of my house is being overtaken by dallisgrass from my neighbor's weed infested lawn and pulling the weeds in my half is pointless with all those weeds.

I've previously fertilized and put down pre-emergent but that area is out of control.

Do I just let it be and wait for winter when the bermuda goes dormant and hit the whole thing hard with glyphosate?

Goddamn fuckin dallisgrass, I hate that shit.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[workswithseed 2204]

https://neilsperry.com/2016/06/dealing-with-dallisgrass-2/

Basically, I'd say mow your lawn more, and be precise when spraying.

• Spot treat dallisgrass clumps in any type of lawn by using a glyphosate-only herbicide spray (no other active ingredients). You have to have very precise control of those places where you apply the weedkiller. It kills all grasses, not just dallisgrass.

• For that reason, a 1- or 2-gallon tank sprayer is the best option. You can set the spray nozzle on “medium” and apply the weedkiller carefully just to the weed. Sure, it will leave a spot of dead grass in your lawn, but better to have that than to have a solid lawn of dallisgrass a year or two from now.

• The reason I specified “a glyphosate-only” herbicide with no other active ingredients is because there are products out there containing glyphosate in tandem with long-lasting, soil active weedkillers. The glyphosate-only products will not contaminate the soil. Your lawngrass will be able to cover the bare spots on its own, or you can dig and move plugs of good turfgrass from elsewhere in your lawn into the bare spaces.

• Finally, a cool trick someone posted on my Facebook page. I don’t have a photo, but I can certainly describe it. Start with a 1-gallon plastic milk jug. Carefully cut the bottom out of the jug. Remove the cap. Place the jug over each clump of dallisgrass and insert the spray nozzle down into the jug. It will ensure precise application without spray drift onto the rest of your lawn.

 

[Gourmand 7778]

Thanks @workswithseed, I actually mow at least once a week, on average probably every five days or so. I'm mowing later this evening when it cools off a bit. My neighbors haven't mowed in about two weeks so I may just do them the favor and cut that part of their lawn myself as well. That shit is getting crazy right now. 

I assume Roundup isn't glyphosate-only? I have one of those Round Up Sure Shot Sprayers that I use on cracks in the driveway and selectively in isolated areas along my fence etc and I used it sparingly in some areas today on that dallisgrass. I didn't notice much afterspray effect, it seems pretty point-and-click. I assume I should invest in a good sprayer and a bottle of glyphosate and try your trick instead. 

Out of curiosity, do you know if Austin area lawn care companies use MSMA? I know it's not supposed to be used on residential properties but I wonder if some of the lawns on my street that don't have a lick of dallis (serviced by TruGreen and ABC) have been treated using MSMA. The homeowners that don't nerd out on their lawn like I do have yards that are covered in dallis. That crap is all over my neighorhood (99% bermuda lawns). It's just really pissing me off in that Carl Spackler kind of way. 

Also, I've treated with pre emergent twice already. Is pre emergent useless if my neighbor's yard is out of control?

 

 

[TexasEd 8266]

4 hours ago, Gourmand said:

Also, I've treated with pre emergent twice already. Is pre emergent useless if my neighbor's yard is out of control?

 

 

I think you need to be consistent with spring and fall applications of pre-emergent because not all the seed will try to germinate at the same time so it could take a few seasons to get it all.

 

[krevo 142]

On 7/3/2020 at 3:34 PM, Gourmand said:

Thanks @workswithseed, I actually mow at least once a week, on average probably every five days or so. I'm mowing later this evening when it cools off a bit. My neighbors haven't mowed in about two weeks so I may just do them the favor and cut that part of their lawn myself as well. That shit is getting crazy right now. 

I assume Roundup isn't glyphosate-only? I have one of those Round Up Sure Shot Sprayers that I use on cracks in the driveway and selectively in isolated areas along my fence etc and I used it sparingly in some areas today on that dallisgrass. I didn't notice much afterspray effect, it seems pretty point-and-click. I assume I should invest in a good sprayer and a bottle of glyphosate and try your trick instead. 

Out of curiosity, do you know if Austin area lawn care companies use MSMA? I know it's not supposed to be used on residential properties but I wonder if some of the lawns on my street that don't have a lick of dallis (serviced by TruGreen and ABC) have been treated using MSMA. The homeowners that don't nerd out on their lawn like I do have yards that are covered in dallis. That crap is all over my neighorhood (99% bermuda lawns). It's just really pissing me off in that Carl Spackler kind of way. 

Also, I've treated with pre emergent twice already. Is pre emergent useless if my neighbor's yard is out of control?

 

 

I'd be willing to bet the big name companies are not using MSMA. Arsenic in ground water is a pretty significant thing and they a lot of lawns.  They do use professional grade pre and post emergents and they stay on a schedule to manage the weeds.  I do three pre-em applications a year - mostly prodiamine (Barricade) but mix in dyothopir (Dimension) granuals as well.

I also spot treat with concentrated 24d/quinclorac or glypho when its stubborn.  You can paint glypho on with the roundup sticks or spray it on a rag on a stick and apply it directly to the plant.  My front yard is almost completely weed free, with the exception of the side yard that will get yellow nutsedge occasionally - which I kill off with Image or Sedgehammer.

One thing that really helps weeds like that stay gone is getting a nice healthy stand of turf to choke it out.  Nuke the weeds, fertilize the hell out of the grass, and once its growing dense - keep your pre-em schedule consistent.

Edited July 6, 2020 by krevo

[Gourmand 7778]

41 minutes ago, krevo said:

I'd be willing to bet the big name companies are not using MSMA. Arsenic in ground water is a pretty significant thing and they a lot of lawns.  They do use professional grade pre and post emergents and they stay on a schedule to manage the weeds.  I do three pre-em applications a year - mostly prodiamine (Barricade) but mix in dyothopir (Dimension) granuals as well.

I also spot treat with concentrated 24d/quinclorac or glypho when its stubborn.  You can paint glypho on with the roundup sticks or spray it on a rag on a stick and apply it directly to the plant.  My front yard is almost completely weed free, with the exception of the side yard that will get yellow nutsedge occasionally - which I kill off with Image or Sedgehammer.

One thing that really helps weeds like that stay gone is getting a nice healthy stand of turf to choke it out.  Nuke the weeds, fertilize the hell out of the grass, and once its growing dense - keep your pre-em schedule consistent.

Fortunately for me the previous owner was on a contract with TruGreen so I they had done all the pre emergents and fertilization etc. We moved in to the house in January and I didn't start nerding out on my lawn until the quarantine hit in March and since then I've been full bore. Most of the yard is in good condition, some areas need to be babied a little because of less sunlight, higher foot traffic, or compacted soil but I can handle that.This one area though is a problem because my neighbors yard sucks and they are basically watering weeds. I applied Barricade about a month ago but I don't recall if I put any down on their half of the area between our houses and now it's a mess. The fertilizer that I've applied probably fed their weeds as well and those weeds have crept into my half. I spent hours on the Fourth pulling a lot of it by hand and almost filled a brown lawn bag with the weeds I pulled so now I have a bunch of bare spots and bermuda shoots that got yanked out as well. At least I was able to get about 60% of it out though. 

I wish I could use that MSMA though, it would make it a lot easier....

 

[krevo 142]

15 hours ago, Gourmand said:

Fortunately for me the previous owner was on a contract with TruGreen so I they had done all the pre emergents and fertilization etc. We moved in to the house in January and I didn't start nerding out on my lawn until the quarantine hit in March and since then I've been full bore. Most of the yard is in good condition, some areas need to be babied a little because of less sunlight, higher foot traffic, or compacted soil but I can handle that.This one area though is a problem because my neighbors yard sucks and they are basically watering weeds. I applied Barricade about a month ago but I don't recall if I put any down on their half of the area between our houses and now it's a mess. The fertilizer that I've applied probably fed their weeds as well and those weeds have crept into my half. I spent hours on the Fourth pulling a lot of it by hand and almost filled a brown lawn bag with the weeds I pulled so now I have a bunch of bare spots and bermuda shoots that got yanked out as well. At least I was able to get about 60% of it out though. 

I wish I could use that MSMA though, it would make it a lot easier....

 

I've heard a lot of independent lawn guys mentioning a combination of Celsius and Revolver to keep dallisgrass under control (claim its 90% effective)  Both are not cheap though. 

Also - if you have MSMA that you bought before 2011, you can continue to use it.   So there may be some companies out there that will treat your lawn with MSMA that they kept stocked before the cutoff.

[Gourmand 7778]

I went down a small rabbit hole researching MSMA last night because I discovered that I could easily buy it online as Target 6.6, but the application rate for 1000 s.f. is like 0.5 -1.0 oz product per gallon of water and the container size is 2.5 gallons. Just kinda outsizes my need by a few golf courses but definitely a lot more bang for the buck than Celsius or Revolver. 

I've read on forums online that it's not unusual for individuals to use it on their lawns and everyone swears by it, but after reading some of the stuff I found about the EPA's research and the lobbying by the two big chem companies that produce it, I think I'll do the right thing and take a pass. A weedy side yard isn't worth potentially poisoning well water in my area with inorganic arsenic and I'm not comfortable having a big jug of it in my garage when I'd only need half an ounce. Worst case scenario, I'll just pay the premium and get some Celsius and Certainty and use those.

[TexasEd 8266]

35 minutes ago, Gourmand said:

A weedy side yard isn't worth potentially poisoning well water in my area with inorganic arsenic and I'm not comfortable having a big jug of it in my garage when I'd only need half an ounce. Worst case scenario, I'll just pay the premium and get some Celsius and Certainty and use those.

This is where I fall on must things insect and weed related.  Rather have bees and deal with mosquitoes and moths.

Rather have weeds and not poison the water.

Try not to over fertilize, my back yard backs up to a creek bed that flows into lake Travis and my drinking water comes from the lake.

[krevo 142]

3 hours ago, Gourmand said:

I went down a small rabbit hole researching MSMA last night because I discovered that I could easily buy it online as Target 6.6, but the application rate for 1000 s.f. is like 0.5 -1.0 oz product per gallon of water and the container size is 2.5 gallons. Just kinda outsizes my need by a few golf courses but definitely a lot more bang for the buck than Celsius or Revolver. 

I've read on forums online that it's not unusual for individuals to use it on their lawns and everyone swears by it, but after reading some of the stuff I found about the EPA's research and the lobbying by the two big chem companies that produce it, I think I'll do the right thing and take a pass. A weedy side yard isn't worth potentially poisoning well water in my area with inorganic arsenic and I'm not comfortable having a big jug of it in my garage when I'd only need half an ounce. Worst case scenario, I'll just pay the premium and get some Celsius and Certainty and use those.

Good on you.  I agree with you on not using MSMA.   One other option might be to contact a professional turf company to have them solve the problem for both you and your neighbor - and ask the neighbor if he'd split the cost of the 2-3 treatments for just that area.  Shouldn't be too expensive and it may get it under control enough for you to prevent it in the future, regardless of what your neighbor chooses to do.

I had some new sod installed on the sideyard over my fence between the fence and sidewalk by the builder, and it was filled with dallisgrass when they installed it.  I opted to glypho it very gently, fertilized the shit out of the patches that were browned, and then hit them with iron and humic acid to get the turf to start coming back after the glypho had done its job.  Worked really well but I was spot treating patches - not nuking an entire sideyard.

Edited July 7, 2020 by krevo

[deadshank 24654]

I’ve got two laggard live oak trees in the circle of our deer camp. They’ve been in the ground for 5 years now and in good soil.  They’re going nowhere.  Not dead but also not thriving.  We made the mistake of not exposing enough of the root ball when we planted them. Since, we took the top soil back off to expose the root ball and continue to water them. 
 

We have never done any root feeding.  Any suggestions?  We do have a perforated spike going down into the ground to get water down to the roots rather than just pouring it all over the ground and running off into oblivion. 
 

BTW, we put one red oak in and on top of an unbreakable rock.  It’s growing like a weed.  Go figure.  
 

What kind of root feed / stimulant?

[Grumpy Camel 2]

This is the first year I plan to use a pre-emergent (prodiamine) beginning with the fall application.  How do you know when to put it down?  Everything I’ve read says to get it down before soil temps reach 70 in the fall, so would anytime before that work?  How far in advance of 70 degrees would be too soon?

 

thanks

[krevo 142]

32 minutes ago, Grumpy Camel said:

This is the first year I plan to use a pre-emergent (prodiamine) beginning with the fall application.  How do you know when to put it down?  Everything I’ve read says to get it down before soil temps reach 70 in the fall, so would anytime before that work?  How far in advance of 70 degrees would be too soon?

 

thanks

What zone and what grass type do you have?  I follow my own schedule but there are general calendars for different zones/grass types you can follow for your insect treatment, fert, pre-em, etc.

 

I use prodiamine and i usually put mine down right when it starts to cool off (Octoberish)  Usually the same time I put down a bag of Winterizer.  Then again in early spring and early summer.  I'm in centex w/ tifway bermuda

Edited July 9, 2020 by krevo

[Grumpy Camel 2]

Zone 9, Bermuda (not sure what type).

I was also thinking Octoberish, but didn’t want to miss the window.  I had a big problem with poa annua this year, so want to get ahead of it for next year.

 

[HiggyBaby 2617]

My Indian Hawthornes all appear to have the aids. What’s going on here and how do I make them not look dead?

Whelp, after a thorough anti-fungal soaking, much improved. Thanks cactus.

[El Tri 412]

I’m having issues with fairly new zoysia sod I laid down about 6 weeks ago. Some spots have turned completely yellow while the rest is doing really well. I watered the shit out of it for the first few weeks while it took and it was all super green but now it looks like this. Initially I thought it could be my sprinklers weren’t reaching but I had the heads changed to 15 footers. I’ve been watering the spot manually but it’s not getting much better.

Could it be fungus?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Gourmand 7778]

@El TriThat definitely looks like brown patch, have you applied any fungicide previously? If not maybe get some Heritage G or Fertilome F Stop and try to only water in the morning hours after any dew has dried. 

Edited July 10, 2020 by Gourmand

[cactusflinthead 27627]

On dallisgrass. 

Yes, there are lawn companies that still spray MSMA, it's still available to golf courses, ag uses, and vegetation control in roadways. If it does get used in a residential location it is not logged as such. 

The most common legit method is to spray or otherwise apply glyphosate at a very low rate. @Okie Lite in Zapata and I have discussed this issue. In OK they will check out your tank for MSMA and woe unto you if it is in there and you're not supposed to have it. 

MSMA will burn the turf. Period. It is virtually indistinguishable from the effects of low rate glyphosate. The high dollar stuff like; Tribute Total, Manuscript, Celsius/Revolver/Sedgehammer mixes don't do well now. (Btw, that 3 way mix is Tribute.) Because it is difficult for the dallisgrass to absorb it in the hammering of summer.  Glyphosate does not have this problem. MSMA doesn't either, but they both do better once fall gets here and they start kicking into growing again. It's a waste of money to do any of the high dollar ones right now. A half percent solution of round up is far more effective and inexpensive. Again the burn effects of MSMA and glyphosate are essentially the same. The bermudagrass will snap out of it pretty quickly. 

 

[cactusflinthead 27627]

18 hours ago, Gourmand said:

@El TriThat definitely looks like brown patch, have you applied any fungicide previously? If not maybe get some Heritage G or Fertilome F Stop and try to only water in the morning hours after any dew has dried. 

What he said. Except I'm trending to TARR rather than brown patch/rhizoctonia. 

Edited July 11, 2020 by cactusflinthead

[Gourmand 7778]

Thanks @cactusflinthead BTW I found some Celsius on ebay for a good price, are you suggesting that I not use it now in the heat of summer but stick with Round Up instead? I've already taken some Round Up to the inside half of my neighbors side and nuked a lot of their weed grass just to try and keep it from invading my area. This may be a dumb question but what do you do once those areas are dead? Do you pull them by hand or leave them? I have already pulled a good amount of that shit from my side without even spraying it on my grass but it's a big chore.  I try to get out there every day and pull some but at some point you just have to stop because it's so overwhelming. I think I'll try the Round Up tactically and go from there.

Your tip on peat moss was awesome, muchas gracias. That shit is like PED for bermuda. Now I try to keep a bag of it and some top soil handy at all times to fill in areas that look to be lagging. It's amazing how well the grass responds to it. 

[cactusflinthead 27627]

You don't have to do a whole lot to the area after it's sprayed except mow it. Be patient. That Manuscript stuff won't look like it has done a damn thing for 2 weeks. Certainty is similar. The only thing that's noticeable is that it quits getting bigger. Sedges are the most notable. That's what gets our attention in the first place. They get tall amid the bed or turf. Spray some nutgrass after you mow and it will stay that height. Eventually it turns yellow and then withers up and dies. 

Celsius has other better uses than dallisgrass. It's particularly effective on Virginia buttonweed. It will also do a lot of other grasses, it's useful for rogue fescue or other cool season grasses. I'm using it now on stray broadleaf too, but not for dallisgrass. 

It's an ongoing process to really get the dallisgrass under control in a bad site. Under the best circumstances you might get 70% of it on the first pass. Then it becomes a matter of being persistent, but not overbearing. Give the spot a chance to recover. Then whack it again. 

[TexasEd 8266]

ID?

 

[Gourmand 7778]

South Oklahoma devil weed

[Redpuma 146]

Found this in my backyard...?

[TexasEd 8266]

10 hours ago, Gourmand said:

South Oklahoma devil weed

 

1 hour ago, Redpuma said:

Found this in my backyard...?

 

[Grumpy Camel 2]

Over the past few weeks, this weed has taken over the side of my house.  Just want to confirm....is this crabgrass?  How can I contain it?  I have some quinclorac, is it safe to use on bermuda in hot temperatures?  Everything I've read says to use it in the evening, when its not as hot.  

 

[drt 645]

Within 3 days my st Augustine has gone from green and lush to crackly and signs of drought stress. And that’s with watering on Tuesday night. 

[Gourmand 7778]

@Grumpy Camel  I feel your frustration. That looks like crabgrass, have you spot treated with something like weed b gon? Calendar a pre-emergent application for the fall. 

[HiggyBaby 2617]

Only effective way I’ve found to treat Dallisgrass is just wait for a good rain and pull it up by the roots. Hate that stuff.

[cactusflinthead 27627]

On 7/14/2020 at 1:14 PM, Grumpy Camel said:

Over the past few weeks, this weed has taken over the side of my house.  Just want to confirm....is this crabgrass?  How can I contain it?  I have some quinclorac, is it safe to use on bermuda in hot temperatures?  Everything I've read says to use it in the evening, when its not as hot.  

 

Yes, evenings are good. Show us the after pictures too. Try a test spot, 6×6 is plenty, and give it a few days. 

[Grumpy Camel 2]

2 hours ago, Gourmand said:

@Grumpy Camel  I feel your frustration. That looks like crabgrass, have you spot treated with something like weed b gon? Calendar a pre-emergent application for the fall. 

I spot treated with the Roundup that’s safe to use on grass.  No effect.

 

36 minutes ago, cactusflinthead said:

Yes, evenings are good. Show us the after pictures too. Try a test spot, 6×6 is plenty, and give it a few days. 

Will do.  Plan to mix up some Quinclorac and Methylated Seed Oil and spray this weekend.