Spain--April 2018

[Grimas 669]

7 minutes ago, Neonmoon said:

Per my google, this overnight train was discontinued. It seems you can still do a Madrid to Lisbon but it’s three separate trains. Will need to do more research 

https://www.seat61.com/trains-and-routes/madrid-to-lisbon-by-train.htm
 

 

That sucks... I had planned to take it a few years ago when I had to stay in Madrid over a weekend but ended up going to Barcelona via train instead... 

[52-80 19159]

23 minutes ago, BeardIP said:

Thought I'd ask one last time as my googling is fruitless:

Anyone know where/how to see a bull fight (pretty much anywhere in central spain) in Feb?

Tip any farmer €50 and im sure theyd oblige

[alphahydro 334]

On 1/15/2024 at 10:44 AM, BeardIP said:

I have 2 days to putz around before work meetings in/around Madrid next month.

Questions:

• Can you see a bull fight anywhere in February? I'd be willing to travel a few hours to do so. Cursory glances it seems to be out of season?
• Should I stay in Toledo? Is there enough to putz around with there versus Madrid proper?
• I'm reading Don Quixote, since La Mancha is known to be that area of Spain. Any tours or stations of the cross type outings anyone done like that?

 

 

dunno if it's too late, but

Toledo is one of those places that can get really busy from daytours, esp on weekends and during high season.  i'm no expert, so I can't tell you what it will be like in February, but i was there in summer and we spent 2 nights in Toledo to be able to avoid the tourist bus crush (arrive late, full day in Toledo, leave early next morning), and I am glad we did.  toledo is pretty cool to wander in the morning/evening without the tourists.  but it's not life changingly amazing, imo.  I am a huge fan of el greco... even then, we basically had an evening and a full day plus next morning in Toledo and that was plenty for me. 

having said all that, if it's not busy in february, you should be fine with a day trip.  sorry if this isn't too helpful.  lol. 

Edited February 2 by alphahydro
clarity

[alphahydro 334]

On 1/15/2024 at 10:44 AM, BeardIP said:

I have 2 days to putz around before work meetings in/around Madrid next month.

Questions:

• Can you see a bull fight anywhere in February? I'd be willing to travel a few hours to do so. Cursory glances it seems to be out of season?
• Should I stay in Toledo? Is there enough to putz around with there versus Madrid proper?
• I'm reading Don Quixote, since La Mancha is known to be that area of Spain. Any tours or stations of the cross type outings anyone done like that?

 

 

idk about touring la mancha, but you can get to Valladolid in 1 hour by train and visit https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casa_de_Cervantes 

(i've never been, might suck).  but... i really like that area, 

Colegio de San Gregorio in Valladolid is worth a visit if you have any interest in statues/religious iconography (i barely do, and i still thought it was awesome), plus it's the place where spanish theologians first debated the rights of native americans (~50 years before don quixote)- has a reputation for being the birthplace of modern notions of human rights. 

nearby Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine is awesome.  it's a 1000 year old abbey turned hotel + vineyard + spa.  i know that sounds cheesy, but it's actually very well done.  was built by catholics in the early part of the "reconquista" when they got to the duero.  really great restaurant inside the original 12th century refectory.   incredible, peaceful vibe (at least for me personally, i could see it not being someone's thing).   i'm not a hotel person, and i really like this place. 

Also, Salamanca is nearby.  salamanca cathedral is one of my favorites, because they kept upgrading it over time, but you can still visit the old parts.  so you can see Mozarabic decoration, byzantine decorations from the 12th century, and baroque ceilings, all in one place.  great visual overview of spanish history. 

aslo, university of salamanca is great.  (Miguel de Cervantes' alma mater) home of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/School_of_Salamanca - perhaps the origin of life, liberty, pursuit of happiness and all that.  salamanca school thrived right around the time of don quixote and part of an intellectual transition in spain that informs, i htink, a lot of what de cervantes is exploring in the book.  plus, the university and surrounding area has a great vibe to it. 

i love all of spain, and yeah this is more of a "deep cut" type trip than barcelona/madrid/sevilla/ronda, which i also love.  but i think it would be great. 

depending on your trip, you could train to valladolid, rent a car, stay at abadia, drive to and from salamanca, then train back to madrid. 

if you had more time, it would pair really well with seville/cordoba/granada, i would think.  and maybe a quick trip to morocco if you are feeling nuts.   have fun. 

Edited February 2 by alphahydro
added travel details

[Neonmoon 38129]

Anyone every been to Bilbao or other northern coast?

[VABuckeye 2472]

The bull fighting schedule seems to be mid April through mid October.  If I was going to a bull fight I'd do it in Seville.

[LCHorn 2620]

On 5/10/2023 at 5:53 PM, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

My trip to Spain is finally only a month out, so I am starting to do some serious planning.  

The list of restaurants for Madrid alone is massive.  I am going to have to pick and choose.  

Now that you’ve been, what’s your food recs for Madrid?  We’re spending a month there July-Aug with the kids.

[52-80 19159]

remember the spanish steak lexicon. 

vaca gallega, or rubia gallega = breed of cows from galicia

madurado **d = days of aging

ternera = veal

chuleton = ribeye, often bone-in

 

you see any of the above, the meat is soooo inherently good, itll be tasty from any restaurant. 

[Lazarus Bocanegra 305]

On 2/22/2024 at 10:16 AM, LCHorn said:

Now that you’ve been, what’s your food recs for Madrid?  We’re spending a month there July-Aug with the kids.

casa paco 

pa pizza off the puerta del sol 

chocolateria san gines for churros & chocolate 

all of the other nameless places with croquetas y cervezas 

 

[High Plains Drifter 11049]

On 2/2/2024 at 7:35 AM, Neonmoon said:

Anyone every been to Bilbao or other northern coast?

 

Yes, but its been some years. What do you want to know?

[Incredulity 11674]

On 2/2/2024 at 5:35 AM, Neonmoon said:

Anyone every been to Bilbao or other northern coast?

I was in San Sebastian last year.  It’s beautiful.  I was there during San Fermin(running of the bulls) and it was quieter than I would expect for a coast town mid-July.  Much of the town basically closed down before 10pm. But I am not an expert.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19101]

On 2/22/2024 at 11:16 AM, LCHorn said:

Now that you’ve been, what’s your food recs for Madrid?  We’re spending a month there July-Aug with the kids.

 

On 2/23/2024 at 2:18 PM, Lazarus Bocanegra said:

casa paco 

pa pizza off the puerta del sol 

chocolateria san gines for churros & chocolate 

all of the other nameless places with croquetas y cervezas 

 

Second Chocolateria San Gines for churros and chocolate.  So good.  

Restaurant Sacha, which is a little out of town in Chamartin (a residential section of Madrid to the north).  This was my start to Madrid, was outstanding, and is a place where chefs go to eat.

Casa Dani for Tortilla.

I enjoyed all the tapas at Bodegas De La Ardosa at Calle Colón, 13.

The seafood at La Tasquita de Enfrente was excelellent.

La Lloreia was a sleeper hit. Was recommended it on Hungry Onion (now that Chowhound is gone, it is where everyone went), and it did not disappoint.  It was so good, so creative, and so reasonable!

Barmiton is a really good bar and restaurant in La Latina.  It isn't on the famous Tapas street, but just a block or two from there.  Also, right down the road is Tresde who does great French food with Spanish flair at a reasonable price.

Also, all the restuarants and bars at the Edition are worth checking out.  All really, really good with world famous chefs.  The hotel is outstanding.

 

[Buzzrock 14920]

I was in San Sebastian last year.  It’s beautiful.  I was there during San Fermin(running of the bulls) and it was quieter than I would expect for a coast town mid-July.  Much of the town basically closed down before 10pm. But I am not an expert.

San Sebastián is great. I’ve also done a Paradore at Santillana Del Mar that was very idyllic and quiet, and tapas in a wine cave (warehouse full of casks) in Santander. Bilbao is very city-like like Barcelona but the Guggenheim is impressive.

North coast of Spain is a fun trip. We got a rental car and drove all along the Basque region. Easy to recommend.

[Buzzrock 14920]

Beer, wine, seafood, paella for 3 tonight was 118 euros. I fucking love not tipping. Tipping in America is out of hand.

[52-80 19159]

brother, you should still tip in spain, just not a lot.  around 5%, up to 10% if generous, using spare cash. 
 

san sebastian is nice. not worth it by itself but chain it with bilbao (great architecture) and biarritz to make it worthwhile. food in that basque region is even a step above the already high standards of spain if you can believe that. 

[High Plains Drifter 11049]

On 2/24/2024 at 6:54 PM, Incredulity said:

I was in San Sebastian last year.  It’s beautiful.  I was there during San Fermin(running of the bulls) and it was quieter than I would expect for a coast town mid-July.  Much of the town basically closed down before 10pm. But I am not an expert.

 

If it was during the actual week of San Fermin, all the partiers were probably in Iruna (Pamplona) for the running of the bulls insanity. Which is only a short bus ride away. 

 

But yeah, I love San Sebastian. The entire northern coast of Spain is beautiful. 

[Incredulity 11674]

1 minute ago, High Plains Drifter said:

If it was during the actual week of San Fermin, all the partiers were probably in Iruna (Pamplona) for the running of the bulls insanity.

it was.  We went to Pamplona for 3 days, then 2 days in San Sebastian, and 4 days in Madrid.

Great time.  Loved Spain.

Madrid is one of the only cities in the world I have gotten directionally lost in.  Very narrow streets and lots of 5 point intersections.  Cell phones weren't much help as the narrow streets caused significant lag in functionality

[52-80 19159]

7 hours ago, Incredulity said:

 

Madrid is one of the only cities in the world I have gotten directionally lost in.  Very narrow streets and lots of 5 point intersections.  Cell phones weren't much help as the narrow streets caused significant lag in functionality

All roads lead to El Corte Ingles

[Longhorn94 2448]

Ok, I have read all the Spain threads and thank you all so much for your advice and recs! We leave April 4th and return on the 16th. Here is our itinerary:

Paris - 1 day - pick up kid

Barcelona - 3 days

Madrid - 3 days

Seville - 2 days

Granada - 2 days

Paris 1 day - fly home

 

We were going to go Bar - Valencia - Madrid - Bilbao/San Sebastian but the recs for Seville and Granada were really strong. Does everyone agree with Seville/Granada over BB/SS for this time of year? It's our first time in Spain so we are looking to do all the normal touristy / cultural / churches / Museum type stuff. 

Thanks in advance!!!

[Tailgate 3021]

Don’t sleep on Mallorca…it’s a great island.

[Neonmoon 38129]

On 2/23/2024 at 7:18 PM, High Plains Drifter said:

 

Yes, but its been some years. What do you want to know?

Is it worth it? The northern coast seems less traveled and thus more interesting to me. 

[creeper 98]

17 hours ago, Longhorn94 said:

Seville - 2 days

Granada - 2 days

We were going to go Bar - Valencia - Madrid - Bilbao/San Sebastian but the recs for Seville and Granada were really strong. Does everyone agree with Seville/Granada over BB/SS for this time of year? It's our first time in Spain so we are looking to do all the normal touristy / cultural / churches / Museum type stuff. 

Thanks in advance!!!

Been to Bilbao/SS several times.  It's amazing.  Just returned from a Seville / Granada trip a couple weeks ago.  Also amazing, and the weather is great right now.  I'd wanted to make that trip for years but not in the summer.  Make sure to get your tourist-type tickets online ahead of time because 2 days at each of those spots will be very tight, and you don't want to waste time standing in line.  If it were me I'd drop either Barcelona or Madrid and use those extra three days to pad the rest, but I'm sure you'll have a good time.

[Mdhorn 5949]

Making the trip this summer--mid June for 11 days.  Have to go then, anniversary.  Wife has been before so she knows and has seen most things.  Doing the 3 day Barcelona, 4 day Madrid, 4 day Saville, so those are our bases.  Great advice on here and am booking everything in advance, including trains. First thing is a foot tour in those three cities.    

Absolutely love Spanish artists, so looking forward to the Prado.  Loathe Picasso, aside from early works.  but can't wait to see El Greco, Antonio Lopez Garcia, Sorolla, Gris, Golucho, Isabel Quintanilla, Diego Velasquez and others.  

Would like to come back another time and explore cave art in Northern Spain and northern Portugal, or north of Lisbon.    

[High Plains Drifter 11049]

On 3/17/2024 at 3:37 PM, Neonmoon said:

Is it worth it? The northern coast seems less traveled and thus more interesting to me. 

 

Yes, definitely worth it. 

Its been 20 years, and I toured the northern coast and the Basque region (Spain and France) on bicycle. Parts were along the Camino de Santiago, more or less. Day drunks in dive bars would buy me drinks (sidra mostly) if they thought I was following the Camino (I wasn't but they didn't know that). 

Also made it down to Pamplona for the Running of the Bulls (San Fermin). Check that madness out if you have the chance. Lots of tourists there for that though. 

Loved the area around San Sebastian and the northern coast. Very scenic, beautiful country, friendly people. Great beaches. Bilbao is very cool, great architecture. Beautiful little towns along the coast, not very touristy at all (at least back then). The entire Basque region is pretty awesome actually, and the food is absolutely incredible. I'm not a world traveler, but I have been around some, and that area is one of the favorite places I've been to. 

People are friendly and gregarious, just don't mouth off about Basque independence in any dive bars. In some of those bars, you are in Euskadi, not Spain. 

 

[High Plains Drifter 11049]

On 3/18/2024 at 7:23 AM, creeper said:

Been to Bilbao/SS several times.  It's amazing.  Just returned from a Seville / Granada trip a couple weeks ago.  Also amazing, and the weather is great right now.  I'd wanted to make that trip for years but not in the summer.  Make sure to get your tourist-type tickets online ahead of time because 2 days at each of those spots will be very tight, and you don't want to waste time standing in line.  If it were me I'd drop either Barcelona or Madrid and use those extra three days to pad the rest, but I'm sure you'll have a good time.

 

I'd drop Madrid before Barcelona. No question. 

 

[Keef 764]

1 hour ago, High Plains Drifter said:

 

I'd drop Madrid before Barcelona. No question. 

 

Co-signed.  Madrid feels a bit like an east coast style US city me.

[Mo Horn 8843]

2 hours ago, High Plains Drifter said:

 

I'd drop Madrid before Barcelona. No question. 

 

 

38 minutes ago, Keef said:

Co-signed.  Madrid feels a bit like an east coast style US city me.

Except he was excited about the Prado and Guernica, which are there. I've been to both, and well worth the time. I definitely prefer Barcelona over Madrid, but Madrid is a great city and worth a few days. 

[52-80 19159]

On 3/17/2024 at 7:30 PM, Longhorn94 said:

Ok, I have read all the Spain threads and thank you all so much for your advice and recs! We leave April 4th and return on the 16th. Here is our itinerary:

Paris - 1 day - pick up kid

Barcelona - 3 days

Madrid - 3 days

Seville - 2 days

Granada - 2 days

Paris 1 day - fly home

 

We were going to go Bar - Valencia - Madrid - Bilbao/San Sebastian but the recs for Seville and Granada were really strong. Does everyone agree with Seville/Granada over BB/SS for this time of year? It's our first time in Spain so we are looking to do all the normal touristy / cultural / churches / Museum type stuff. 

Thanks in advance!!!

Granada/alhambra would be more significant tourist experience for a first time visit, and the basque would be more appropriate for a repeat visit 

[Neonmoon 38129]

11 hours ago, High Plains Drifter said:

 

Yes, definitely worth it. 

Its been 20 years, and I toured the northern coast and the Basque region (Spain and France) on bicycle. Parts were along the Camino de Santiago, more or less. Day drunks in dive bars would buy me drinks (sidra mostly) if they thought I was following the Camino (I wasn't but they didn't know that). 

Also made it down to Pamplona for the Running of the Bulls (San Fermin). Check that madness out if you have the chance. Lots of tourists there for that though. 

Loved the area around San Sebastian and the northern coast. Very scenic, beautiful country, friendly people. Great beaches. Bilbao is very cool, great architecture. Beautiful little towns along the coast, not very touristy at all (at least back then). The entire Basque region is pretty awesome actually, and the food is absolutely incredible. I'm not a world traveler, but I have been around some, and that area is one of the favorite places I've been to. 

People are friendly and gregarious, just don't mouth off about Basque independence in any dive bars. In some of those bars, you are in Euskadi, not Spain. 

 

Good to hear. I’ve been to Barcelona before but my wife wants to go. So I want to squeeze in some new places if we do Spain as our next trip. Barcelona to Bilbao/SE then down to Madrid 

[Hate 20108]

 Barcelona is prettier but the general feel of Madrid was more appealing to me. Barcelona felt like a snooty east coast city. 

[High Plains Drifter 11049]

42 minutes ago, Neonmoon said:

Good to hear. I’ve been to Barcelona before but my wife wants to go. So I want to squeeze in some new places if we do Spain as our next trip. Barcelona to Bilbao/SE then down to Madrid 

 

If you are driving, try to drive from San Sebastian along the ocean road. Don't remember what its called, but it follows the northern coastline pretty closely for a ways out of San Sebastian. Very scenic coastlines, cliffs, and small villages along the way, although not nearly as fast as a highway. 

If you are a foodie, San Sebastian is the place to be. 

If you are into art or architecture, Bilbao is the place to be. 

 

[wild_turkey 3159]

Anyone know if a 1 hr 40 minute connection in Madrid is long enough, going from PMI-MAD, connecting to MAD-DFW? Seems like I would arrive in T4, need to clear passport control, then depart from T4S.

[Grimas 669]

On 3/28/2024 at 9:32 PM, wild_turkey said:

Anyone know if a 1 hr 40 minute connection in Madrid is long enough, going from PMI-MAD, connecting to MAD-DFW? Seems like I would arrive in T4, need to clear passport control, then depart from T4S.

I think 60 minutes is the recommended transfer time so you should be good. The train between the 2 is 5 minutes. The only bitch is that every flight I’ve been in there is the last gate in the terminal so you have to hoof it quite a way to get to the “middle”  of the terminal where the train (and baggage and customs are)…

[tejas60 3533]

appreciate all the recs! we're headed to Madrid May 7. M-I-L is from Madrid so we'll be there about a week. everything I've mentioned from this thread she already has on her list of things to do.

then off to Almunecar. we know all the stuff in Almunecar (I think, since we were there in 2022). any hidden gems for a day trip around there I should know about? been to Nerja and Malaga. 

[alphahydro 334]

On 3/20/2024 at 4:10 PM, 52-80 said:

Granada/alhambra would be more significant tourist experience for a first time visit, and the basque would be more appropriate for a repeat visit 

Cosign

[alphahydro 334]

On 3/19/2024 at 10:11 PM, Mdhorn said:

Making the trip this summer--mid June for 11 days.  Have to go then, anniversary.  Wife has been before so she knows and has seen most things.  Doing the 3 day Barcelona, 4 day Madrid, 4 day Saville, so those are our bases.  Great advice on here and am booking everything in advance, including trains. First thing is a foot tour in those three cities.    

Absolutely love Spanish artists, so looking forward to the Prado.  Loathe Picasso, aside from early works.  but can't wait to see El Greco, Antonio Lopez Garcia, Sorolla, Gris, Golucho, Isabel Quintanilla, Diego Velasquez and others.  

Would like to come back another time and explore cave art in Northern Spain and northern Portugal, or north of Lisbon.    

if you are a fan of el greco, i think it's worth a trip to toledo.  even just to see Orgaz at Santo Tomé is worth the trip, imo.  you can hit toledo on a day trip from madrid, but you should, imo, spend the night, because it's crowded in summer during the day when all the daytrippers are in town.  (if you spend the evening, you can visit places in teh morning and evening when the crowds are gone.)

[VABuckeye 2472]

On 3/17/2024 at 3:10 PM, Tailgate said:

Don’t sleep on Mallorca…it’s a great island.

We spent three nights on the east coast (Alcudia) and two nights on the west coast (Palma) and it wasn’t nearly enough.  I could do an entire vacation on Mallorca.  

[VABuckeye 2472]

Oh, and Ronda over Gibraltar every day of the week.