The Italy Thread

[texasdago 7568]

>>> Part 1 - Food-centric.   Set up base in Bologna, and venturing the Parma and Modena and parts in between.

 

This is great and can tie very well to wine, as well.  Can recommend a B&B outside of Bologna but for only part of the time as you might want to be between Bologna and Modena.  Can also recommend a B&B/winery near Castelvetro di Modena.

Edited January 16, 2019 by texasdago

[South Austin 52456]

1 minute ago, MirrOlure said:

Part 2 -  Coastal.  Headquarter in one of the Cinque Terra towns for at least two, maybe 3 nights.  This is the "iffiest" part of the trip, so please chime in.

Went to Cinque Terra for two nights in 2014 during a two-week Italian trip for our tenth anniversary.  Glad I went, but have no desire to return.  Beautiful hiking trails with gorgeous views, and some of the best seafood I've ever had (I learned to love anchovies there).  But it's gotten way too crowded.  If you go, I recommend you set up camp in Manarola (where we stayed) or Riomaggiore, as they're two of the smaller towns that won't get quite as crowded as the others.  We took the train to Monterroso for an afternoon, and it felt like Spring Break in Panama City. 

If you go, I highly recommend dining at Ristorante Belforte in Vernazza, and try to get a table on the terrace overlooking the ocean.  http://www.ristorantebelforte.it/it/ristorante-vernazza-cinqueterre-liguria.php

[Biff Tannen 45665]

2 minutes ago, South Austin said:

Went to Cinque Terra for two nights in 2014 during a two-week Italian trip for our tenth anniversary.  Glad I went, but have no desire to return.  Beautiful hiking trails with gorgeous views, and some of the best seafood I've ever had (I learned to love anchovies there).  But it's gotten way too crowded.  If you go, I recommend you set up camp in Manarola (where we stayed) or Riomaggiore, as they're two of the smaller towns that won't get quite as crowded as the others.  We took the train to Monterroso for an afternoon, and it felt like Spring Break in Panama City. 

If you go, I highly recommend dining at Ristorante Belforte in Vernazza, and try to get a table on the terrace overlooking the ocean.  http://www.ristorantebelforte.it/it/ristorante-vernazza-cinqueterre-liguria.php

Good info here too, but especially since he is going in July, I would steer clear of staying in any of the 5 towns.  I went in September and it was still pretty packed.  I can't even imagine July.

[South Austin 52456]

3 minutes ago, Biff Tannen said:

Good info here too, but especially since he is going in July, I would steer clear of staying in any of the 5 towns.  I went in September and it was still pretty packed.  I can't even imagine July.

Very good point.  We went in mid-May, and even then it seemed more crowded than I would have liked.  I think about 20 or so years ago Rick Steves ruined Cinque Terre.

[VABuckeye 2472]

Wine.  I love the Chianti Classico region and the Brunello area around Montalcino.

That said.  Go to Bolgheri where the Super Tuscans are made.  It's beautiful and it's by the sea so you might get a sea breeze while you're there.  The area many great vineyards and the only one you can't get into is Sassicaia because, well it's Sassicaia.  But, you can get into Ornellaia (85 euro per tasting) and many lesser vineyards which still make fantastic wines and have more affordable tastings.  You're still in Tuscany but it's a different part of Tuscany with a different feel.  It's also less likely to be crowded than the more touristy sites.

[MirrOlure 14760]

I was afraid of the CT in July being a nightmare.....so we may see fit to avoid it all together, and delve deeper into the Tuscan wine region....Chianti and Montepulciano for example.... any thoughts on that are welcome as well.  

 

[Biff Tannen 45665]

3 minutes ago, MirrOlure said:

I was afraid of the CT in July being a nightmare.....so we may see fit to avoid it all together, and delve deeper into the Tuscan wine region....Chianti and Montepulciano for example.... any thoughts on that are welcome as well.  

 

I did Chianti and Montalcino in September as well.  Definitely one of the highlights of an already amazing trip.  I'm sure others have more detailed info, but as your attorney I advise you to rent a very fast car with no top and just drive.

[VABuckeye 2472]

When in September?  We were there near the end of September.  Small world.

[South Austin 52456]

On wine, I still have yet to do Tuscany.  If you're a fan of Barolo -- which admittedly for its price point is not the most accessible wine in America -- I highly recommend a visit to the Langhe region of the Piedmont.  We stayed in the town of Barolo for a few days; it was our favorite part of the trip and we vow to return.  Here's a picture from our hike from Barolo to Monforte d'Alba, with the Swiss Alps in the background.

[VABuckeye 2472]

We were there in September as well.  We loved the Piedmonte region and the food was spectacular.  White truffles FTW.

 

Edited January 16, 2019 by VABuckeye

[texasdago 7568]

If you are afraid of crowds, I can guarantee Modena, Bologna, Ferrara, the surrounding wine country and the various places to try parmigiano, balsamic vinegar, etc. will be very peaceful in July.  I speak from repeated experience.  It is amazing. 

...and if its too hot, one of the B&Bs I am recommending offers this view

[VABuckeye 2472]

The view from the agritourismo where we stayed near the town of Barolo.

Edited January 16, 2019 by VABuckeye

[South Austin 52456]

That's awesome, VABuckeye.  You're making me check flight prices.

[Biff Tannen 45665]

45 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

When in September?  We were there near the end of September.  Small world.

Yeah, we talked about this earlier in the thread I think.  You were slightly ahead of me.

[G650 14244]

Tuscany is obviously good wine country, but I honestly direct people to the north. And to Lombardy. Wine as good or better than the Piedmont, at better prices.

[Biff Tannen 45665]

29 minutes ago, G650 said:

Tuscany is obviously good wine country, but I honestly direct people to the north. And to Lombardy. Wine as good or better than the Piedmont, at better prices.

Agreed.  Valpolicella is my favorite.

[Telegraph_it 3357]

Agriturismos are one of the best things about Italy. Seeing the last couple of photos makes me want to go back. 

[VABuckeye 2472]

2 hours ago, Telegraph_it said:

Agriturismos are one of the best things about Italy. Seeing the last couple of photos makes me want to go back. 

That image is from the Paolo Manzone agriturismo.  We did a tasting dinner there and it was one of the best combinations of food and wine we had on the trip.  It was stellar.

Cascina Meriame

Edited January 21, 2019 by VABuckeye
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[G650 14244]

On 1/16/2019 at 4:36 PM, texasdago said:

If you are afraid of crowds, I can guarantee Modena, Bologna, Ferrara, the surrounding wine country and the various places to try parmigiano, balsamic vinegar, etc. will be very peaceful in July.  I speak from repeated experience.  It is amazing. 

...and if its too hot, one of the B&Bs I am recommending offers this view

I saw a B&Bin Lucca that had an almost identical pool. Good shit.

[texasdago 7568]

Lots of amazing agriturismos in Italy that are not in jam packed areas.  These are two views from one outside of Gubbio in Umbria...  this was also in July and the town itself was not packed to the gills... a few tourists but mostly calm and peaceful.

 

 

[Kevin O’Shea 279]

Planning a trip with the wife in July, mainly to Croatia (would like recs there too) but there is an opportunity to jump over to Venice the last couple of nights of our trip. 

What’s the consensus on Venice? It looks touristy as can be but is it worth seeing? Is it fun, are there good bars/restaurants? 

[Hate 20106]

Venice is one of my favorite cities.  I'd recommend it.  I fully expect the next 20 posts to be about how people hate Venice, especially in July.  

[Longhornmaniac8 255]

1 hour ago, Kevin O’Shea said:

Planning a trip with the wife in July, mainly to Croatia (would like recs there too) but there is an opportunity to jump over to Venice the last couple of nights of our trip. 

What’s the consensus on Venice? It looks touristy as can be but is it worth seeing? Is it fun, are there good bars/restaurants? 

Please don't skip out on Slovenia. It is the most amazing country in a continent full of amazing countries, but still so comparatively unknown. The Soca Valley is shockingly beautiful. Dinner at Hisa Franko in Kobarid should be on any food lover's bucket list (featured on Chef's Table).

Rovinj on the Istrian coast of Croatia is a beautiful town.

[Longhornmaniac8 255]

I just got back from a couple of weeks in London and Tuscany. Others are spot on with their recommendations for Chianti and Val d'Orcia regions of Tuscany. San Gimignano, Montalcino, Montepulciano, Siena, all just gorgeous. Cannot recommend going in winter enough. The light is permanently perfect and the crowds are minimal.

 

 

[sidis 9823]

1 hour ago, Kevin O’Shea said:

Planning a trip with the wife in July, mainly to Croatia (would like recs there too) but there is an opportunity to jump over to Venice the last couple of nights of our trip. 

What’s the consensus on Venice? It looks touristy as can be but is it worth seeing? Is it fun, are there good bars/restaurants? 

worth going to once if you haven't been for sure.  but as hate alluded to and predicted, i'll be the first to say that july truly is a terrible time.

[G650 14244]

4 hours ago, texasdago said:

Lots of amazing agriturismos in Italy that are not in jam packed areas.  These are two views from one outside of Gubbio in Umbria...  this was also in July and the town itself was not packed to the gills... a few tourists but mostly calm and peaceful.

 

 

I'm a northerner all the way, but if I'm heading below Milan, Umbria is my joint. Stayed in a villa outside this tiny little town called Ficule back in 06 that was phenomenal. Came with a cook, and she would start on dinner about 10am. Like literally ground the coffee beans for the tiramisu. 

[G650 14244]

3 hours ago, Kevin O’Shea said:

Planning a trip with the wife in July, mainly to Croatia (would like recs there too) but there is an opportunity to jump over to Venice the last couple of nights of our trip. 

What’s the consensus on Venice? It looks touristy as can be but is it worth seeing? Is it fun, are there good bars/restaurants? 

Its sinking and overrun. I loved what it used to be, but it's a different place now. Croatia is far more appealing, especially Dubrovnik and Plitvice Lakes.

 

A day in Venice is worth it just to experience it, but not much else.

[Hate 20106]

So is New Orleans, but people still go there. Venice is fantastic. There’s nothing quite like leaving a restaurant at night buzzed and trying to find your way back to the hotel through all the narrow streets.

[VABuckeye 2472]

We loved Venice. We spent one day doing touristy stuff and the next day getting as back alley (canal) as we could and had a blast exploring. 

[G650 14244]

On 1/25/2019 at 8:06 PM, Hate said:

So is New Orleans, but people still go there. Venice is fantastic. There’s nothing quite like leaving a restaurant at night buzzed and trying to find your way back to the hotel through all the narrow streets.

Don't get me wrong, Venice is worth seeing. It's one of the few truly unique places on earth. But it's a shell of it's former self, and almost a theme park at this point. And it also happens to be sinking rapidly.

 

As I said, I support everyone seeing it, but I would not make a week of it. There's myriad medieval European cities you can wonder tiny alleys home in.

As an aside, New Orleans is a shithole.

[South Austin 52456]

3 minutes ago, G650 said:

As I said, I support everyone seeing it, but I would not make a week of it. There's myriad medieval European cities you can wonder tiny alleys home in.

Agree with this.  Even for your first time, three days tops should do it. 

[Bone3421 716]

Guess good thing i went to venice last time in 2002....was it still good then? Lol

I enjoyed my time in venice and just never got back to it...shame really since ive been right next to it on other trips

[52-80 19147]

Fucking hate Venice.  Due to the city layout, walking down a corridor amongst a herd of 1000 people (when you're not tripping over people selling selfie sticks and fake luxury goods), really does feel like navigating ones way around Disneyworld.  It's not much better in the fall or in the spring.

I'm taking the old folks around in april and after consulting with some italian colleagues we've got this route:

Carinthia (Austria) to Istria (Slovenia) to Trieste:  Habsburg roll into Italy

Treviso to Padova:  smaller cities, bypassing Venice

Verona to Mantova: Romeo & Juliet, and food, keeping small city theme

onwards to Ferrara or Genoa:  coinflip...

loop back through lake Como or Garda, to Bolzano, and Cortina d'Ampezzo:  Dolomites and scenic drives....

 

might squeeze a train trip to Rome but i really dont want to drive down there anymore

 

[South Austin 52456]

PSA:  Cinque Terra will be issuing fines for people who hike in flip flops.  What's next, cargo shorts?

Quote

Italy's Cinque Terre coastline has an almost mythic status among travelers -- who hasn't seen photographs of the pastel-colored houses built into rugged cliffs, surrounded by bright blue sea, and fallen instantly in love?

In person, the region's even more spectacular -- these five picturesque fishing villages are a UNESCO World Heritage Site for a reason.

But if you arrive this summer with only your flimsy sandals and flip-flops in tow, you might have a bit of a shock.

The Cinque Terre National Park authority is running a public information campaign warning tourists about climbing the cliffs without appropriate footwear.

And if you choose to ignore the advice, you could face fines of between €50 ($56) and €2,500 ($2,826).

It's all because mountain rescue teams are becoming increasingly exasperated with rescuing ill-prepared visitors on the mountainous walkways.

 

Link

[VABuckeye 2472]

I don't blame them.  Those paths are dangerous without proper footwear.  They're spending their rescue budget on idiots that aren't smart enough to wear proper shoes on a trail.

[G650 14244]

4 hours ago, South Austin said:

PSA:  Cinque Terra will be issuing fines for people who hike in flip flops.  What's next, cargo shorts?

 

Link

Well, I'm fucked.

[Biff Tannen 45665]

I don't blame them.  I'm a seasoned hiker and those are not easy paths.  There were plenty of people who clearly underestimated the difficulty.  It's not crazy hard, but it's not a walk in the park either.

[VABuckeye 2472]

It's like the people that die on the GR20 trek on Corsica.  They think they're going on a hike.  It's the most difficult trekking trail in Europe and the weather can change in a moment.  One thing will never change.  People are stupid.

"Think about how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of 'em are stupider than that." - George Carlin

"Life is tough, it's even tougher if you're stupid" - John Wayne

 

Edited March 6, 2019 by VABuckeye

[victory88 5663]

Okay, wife and I are doing half our honeymoon in Italy(one week planned).  We’re thinking of doing Venice, Florence, and wine country.  I know nothing about Italy and have never been.  We’re heading out middle of May.  Anyone have recommendations on what cities to visit, where to stay, where to eat, vineyards, pasta making classes etc.  just came across this thread and will read it throughly but what are the no brained activities, restaurants, cities we need to see.

Thanks!

[lemonlime 5503]

http://www.tenutaimpostino.it/index.html

[52-80 19147]

1 hour ago, victory88 said:

Okay, wife and I are doing half our honeymoon in Italy(one week planned).  We’re thinking of doing Venice, Florence, and wine country.  I know nothing about Italy and have never been.  We’re heading out middle of May.  Anyone have recommendations on what cities to visit, where to stay, where to eat, vineyards, pasta making classes etc.  just came across this thread and will read it throughly but what are the no brained activities, restaurants, cities we need to see.

Thanks!

You can get the Venice flavor in Chioggia, without the Venice crowds

[Biff Tannen 45665]

Take a day and go to Verona.  Not crowded, cool city, and great food (ok, that doesn't differentiate it, all food in Italy is badass).  Rent a car and drive.  It's awesome.

[VABuckeye 2472]

3 hours ago, victory88 said:

Okay, wife and I are doing half our honeymoon in Italy(one week planned).  We’re thinking of doing Venice, Florence, and wine country.  I know nothing about Italy and have never been.  We’re heading out middle of May.  Anyone have recommendations on what cities to visit, where to stay, where to eat, vineyards, pasta making classes etc.  just came across this thread and will read it throughly but what are the no brained activities, restaurants, cities we need to see.

Thanks!

Tuscany is big!   An easy way to do that wine region since Florence on your list is to stay in an agritourismo near the center on the Chianti Classico region.   Then you can easily hit Montalcino (Brunello), Montepulciano (Vino Nobile) and of course Chianti Classico and the local Super Tuscans.  Bolgheri (the real Super Tuscans) isn’t too far away and you can do a night or two there and it’s seaside.  Sassacaia does not do tours for the public but Ornellaia does. You’ll have to book that one well in advance but it’s the second most famous Super Tuscan.  $85 per tasting. 

The small towns have amazing restaurants.  In Radda, we were about o walk in to a Michelin restaurant for lunch and the owner/chef took ours orders, served us and took photos with us after the meal.  If it’s just two of you reservations shouldn’t be necessary for dinner at most places.  The finest will have reservations and waiting lists though.  In Tuscany in you are beef lovers you should go to Dario’s for the experience.  Be prepared for a LOT of rare beef. 

Edited April 9, 2019 by VABuckeye

[Biff Tannen 45665]

I'm actually heading back to Tuscany this fall after my first time last fall.  Found out our friends have a villa in Chiusi, so couldn't pass it up.

[McCroskey 1504]

Subscribed. Gonna do 11-12 days in Italy next summer with the family. Gotta figure out the right mix of activities and where to stay.

I took my oldest to Rome for 4 days last year and fucking loved every minute in that city, and they say it’s nowhere near the best of Italy. Lake Como is on my list this next time for sure.


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[Biff Tannen 45665]

4 hours ago, McCroskey said:

Subscribed. Gonna do 11-12 days in Italy next summer with the family. Gotta figure out the right mix of activities and where to stay.

I took my oldest to Rome for 4 days last year and fucking loved every minute in that city, and they say it’s nowhere near the best of Italy. Lake Como is on my list this next time for sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did all of northern Italy last fall and Como was by far my favorite, specifically Bellagio.

[G650 14244]

13 hours ago, McCroskey said:

Lake Como

myman.jpg

[VABuckeye 2472]

We spent a couple of nights in Bellagio last September.  It was fantastic.  Crowded but fantastic.

[G650 14244]

2 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

We spent a couple of nights in Bellagio last September.  It was fantastic.  Crowded but fantastic.

Try directly across the lake in Tremezzo next time you are up that way. Much better, and more peaceful.

[Biff Tannen 45665]

11 minutes ago, G650 said:

Try directly across the lake in Tremezzo next time you are up that way. Much better, and more peaceful.

Tremezzo was awesome, but I think it just depends on what you are looking for.  Bellagio is a bit more lively at night.  Honestly it doesn't matter because of course you can just boat across to the different towns whenever you want anyway.

Edit: didn't realize you were responding to VABuckeye

Edited April 10, 2019 by Biff Tannen