The Italy Thread

[G650 14256]

1 minute ago, Biff Tannen said:

 

Edit: didn't realize you were responding to VABuckeye

Indeed. 

 

Personally, I wouldn't go to Como for lively, kind of defeats the purpose. But to each their own, and its certainly easy to buzz between all of the villages there.

[texasdago 7573]

I like Riva del Garda... spent a week there last year.  Great town, little "beaches" for swimming, near wineries, hiking, alpine lakes, etc.  Wonderful town.  Tourist crowds are much more manageable... in fact, never felt too crowded in early July.

[pch 1259]

On 4/10/2019 at 3:04 PM, G650 said:

Try directly across the lake in Tremezzo next time you are up that way. Much better, and more peaceful.

We stayed at Hotel Tremezzo the first time we were in Italy-very peaceful and an excellent retreat from the high traffic cities we had been visiting.

[Beantown Express 2.0 6559]

Any restaurant advice in Rome near Piazza Navona?  I have no idea what part of Rome that is but I booked a hotel there for 2 days before a Med Cruise (Rome to Venice) I am doing with the family in July.  Not looking for fancy but hole in the wall non touristy good food type stuff.  Not sure if that is even available in this part of Rome.  Any help would be appreciated. 

[sidis 9828]

20 minutes ago, Beantown Express 2.0 said:

near Piazza Navona

non touristy 

Not sure if that is even available in this part of Rome.

generally correct.  but nothing wrong with a lot of the spots around there, even if they are packed with tourists.  there's a spot right off the southwest corner of the piazza called cul-de-sac that i have stopped by many times and enjoyed.

you would be better served by walking down and crossing the ponte sisto into the trastavere for restaurants though.  short walk to get a bit more local.

[52-80 19159]

59 minutes ago, Beantown Express 2.0 said:

Any restaurant advice in Rome near Piazza Navona?  I have no idea what part of Rome that is but I booked a hotel there for 2 days before a Med Cruise (Rome to Venice) I am doing with the family in July.  Not looking for fancy but hole in the wall non touristy good food type stuff.  Not sure if that is even available in this part of Rome.  Any help would be appreciated. 

there might be a Sbarros around if you look on Apple Maps

[Gil Bang 25958]

1 hour ago, sidis said:

generally correct.  but nothing wrong with a lot of the spots around there, even if they are packed with tourists.  there's a spot right off the southwest corner of the piazza called cul-de-sac that i have stopped by many times and enjoyed.

you would be better served by walking down and crossing the ponte sisto into the trastavere for restaurants though.  short walk to get a bit more local.

good advice, IMO

[Beantown Express 2.0 6559]

4 hours ago, 52-80 said:

there might be a Sbarros around if you look on Apple Maps

I was hoping for a Gumby’s but Sbarro will do I guess.

[Thetexashammer 1062]

On 4/11/2019 at 10:41 AM, texasdago said:

I like Riva del Garda... spent a week there last year.  Great town, little "beaches" for swimming, near wineries, hiking, alpine lakes, etc.  Wonderful town.  Tourist crowds are much more manageable... in fact, never felt too crowded in early July.

I spent a day at Lake Garda. I haven't been to Como, I just imagined this was Como but with fewer people. That place is great. Obviously less money. I just finished a bottle I bought from Zeni Winery next to Bardolino. Good stuff there, don't know if it's better than the others but I also had some great red wine vinegar that I used forever.

[texasdago 7573]

11 hours ago, Thetexashammer said:

I spent a day at Lake Garda. I haven't been to Como, I just imagined this was Como but with fewer people. That place is great. Obviously less money. I just finished a bottle I bought from Zeni Winery next to Bardolino. Good stuff there, don't know if it's better than the others but I also had some great red wine vinegar that I used forever.

Here is a "semi secret" spot on Lake Garda... same side of the lake as Bardolino but further up, closer to Malcesine.  We spent a few hours there chilling out and swimming and then walked to a fantastic restaurant.  No crowds.  Very chill:

 

 

 

[Biff Tannen 45686]

Nice.  I did the whole drive up that side of the lake.  Stopped in Casteletto I believe.  All of those little towns are awesome.

[texasdago 7573]

That particular day/spot was magical.  Early July, great weather

[Thetexashammer 1062]

I saw Carmen at the Roman amphitheater in Verona which was completed in year 30. Fucking off the hook man. There were multiple horses on stage. Huge, huge cast. Just insane.

Edited April 17, 2019 by Thetexashammer

[gecko 1104]

Fucking hate Venice.  Due to the city layout, walking down a corridor amongst a herd of 1000 people (when you're not tripping over people selling selfie sticks and fake luxury goods), really does feel like navigating ones way around Disneyworld.  It's not much better in the fall or in the spring.

I'm taking the old folks around in april and after consulting with some italian colleagues we've got this route:

Carinthia (Austria) to Istria (Slovenia) to Trieste:  Habsburg roll into Italy

Treviso to Padova:  smaller cities, bypassing Venice

Verona to Mantova: Romeo & Juliet, and food, keeping small city theme

onwards to Ferrara or Genoa:  coinflip...

loop back through lake Como or Garda, to Bolzano, and Cortina d'Ampezzo:  Dolomites and scenic drives....

 

might squeeze a train trip to Rome but i really dont want to drive down there anymore

 

Where did you fly into to start the trip in Carinthia?

[52-80 19159]

1 hour ago, gecko said:

Where did you fly into to start the trip in Carinthia?

The largest international airport that makes sense is Vienna.  Maybe Budapest.  From anywhere else like Munich is not worth a sidetrip.

 

We airbnb'ed a little cottage in the hills above Klagenfurt, for a bit of hiking. 

 

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[52-80 19159]

On 4/9/2019 at 12:10 AM, victory88 said:

Okay, wife and I are doing half our honeymoon in Italy(one week planned).  We’re thinking of doing Venice, Florence, and wine country.  I know nothing about Italy and have never been.  We’re heading out middle of May.  Anyone have recommendations on what cities to visit, where to stay, where to eat, vineyards, pasta making classes etc.  just came across this thread and will read it throughly but what are the no brained activities, restaurants, cities we need to see.

Thanks!

If in Florence buy the FirenzeCard with no hesitation.  Even if you are not a museum buff, deciding on a whim to enter in a few places, you'll already break even with the card.  Then being able to cut the line, especially when its busy like May is a huge huge huge bonus. 

 

If you want to go out of the city and don't have a full rental car, consider doing a Fiat 500 tour (think of it as italian version of the classic mini cooper). 

 

There's actually not too many tourist-trap restaurants as long as you don't eat in the ones immediately surrounding big plazas, next to train stations, with menus displayed in multiple languages and waiters beckoning you to enter.  Tons and tons of "authentic" Osteria and Trattorias.  But the 1 standout to me is actually not a rustic place but a modern joint - Fishing Lab Alle Murate - quite hip and well priced.

 

 

[Biff Tannen 45686]

Also in Florence, hit up Trattoria 4 Leoni.  Small cafe near the Pitti Palace.  Get the fiocchetti pasta.  You're welcome.

[shakahorn 1645]

Wife and I are thinking of flying into Naples, driving down to Villa San Giovanni or Reggio di Calabria via Amalfi Coast and then ferrying across to Sicily.  Fly home out of Sicily.  Any thoughts? 

[VABuckeye 2472]

Driving the Amalfi Coast?  Oof.  That’s not easy driving. 

[Gil Bang 25958]

11 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

Driving the Amalfi Coast?  Oof.  That’s not easy driving. 

we took a bus from Salerno and I fully expected to die

[52-80 19159]

47 minutes ago, Gil Bang said:

we took a bus from Salerno and I fully expected to die

mustve been one of them Fiat buses

[52-80 19159]

I take back what I said about pizza in Rome because Ai Marni, Pizzarium, and Dar Poeta, in that order, were pretty serious stuff.
 

Still not the same as in Naples but man they're satisfying

 

[AustinMT 952]

Flew in and out of Rome FCO this week.  FCO is a cluster***, and Alitalia fits right in with that motif.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19101]

On 4/27/2019 at 3:20 PM, Gil Bang said:

we took a bus from Salerno and I fully expected to die

Yeah, we took the bus from Priano to Sorrento, and I definitely felt we were going to die.  The drive from Rome was no picnic either, but the drive back to Rome was MUCH better.  We went South from Priano and then over and through the mountains.  Some amazing views.  But I was super stressed the whole time.  

[South Austin 52507]

On ‎4‎/‎27‎/‎2019 at 3:32 AM, VABuckeye said:

Driving the Amalfi Coast?  Oof.  That’s not easy driving. 

 

On ‎4‎/‎27‎/‎2019 at 3:20 PM, Gil Bang said:

we took a bus from Salerno and I fully expected to die

Try driving into Cinque Terre.  My wife drove us on narrow roads along a 200-foot sheer drop, and I must have lost two pounds of water weight sweating the whole way. 

[Biff Tannen 45686]

1 hour ago, South Austin said:

 

Try driving into Cinque Terre.  My wife drove us on narrow roads along a 200-foot sheer drop, and I must have lost two pounds of water weight sweating the whole way. 

Oh man, fuck that.  We stayed in Portovenere and took the ferry into Cinque Terre.  Worked great.

[Gil Bang 25958]

we took the ferry back to Salerno.  No fucking way I was getting back on that bus

[AustinMT 952]

On 4/27/2019 at 3:32 AM, VABuckeye said:

Driving the Amalfi Coast?  Oof.  That’s not easy driving. 

Taken last week:

imgur

[Loco 3752]

Northern Italy peeps... Due to booking issues, I'm going to be in Milan July17 afternoon => July 19th mid-morning...   What do you recommend..  stay in Milan and chill, Moderno, Como  or is there just not enough time???

Thought about driving up into the Alps...   anybody got recommendations?

 

PS NEVER book connections till your main flights are TICKETED

[G650 14256]

43 minutes ago, Loco said:

Northern Italy peeps... Due to booking issues, I'm going to be in Milan July17 afternoon => July 19th mid-morning...   What do you recommend..  stay in Milan and chill, Moderno, Como  or is there just not enough time???

Thought about driving up into the Alps...   anybody got recommendations?

 

PS NEVER book connections till your main flights are TICKETED

Como is about 40 minutes of easy driving, that's what I would do if you want some peace. I like the bustle of Milan myself, but a lot of people don't. Can hop into the Alps and Switzerland super easy too at Lugano. There is an Assos store there to look at obscenely expensive bike gear.

Do you have any accommodation in Milan or are you clean sheet right now?

[texasdago 7573]

45 minutes ago, Loco said:

Northern Italy peeps... Due to booking issues, I'm going to be in Milan July17 afternoon => July 19th mid-morning...   What do you recommend..  stay in Milan and chill, Moderno, Como  or is there just not enough time???

Thought about driving up into the Alps...   anybody got recommendations?

PS NEVER book connections till your main flights are TICKETED

So... afternoon to mid-morning of the 19th.  Hmm... if you want to go to the Alps, you can go to Valle d'Aosta.... you'll be in the valley in about 1 1/2 - 2 hours... you can go all the way to Courmayeur by Mont Blanc and it is stunningly beautiful.  Or, you can go check out wineries by Gattinara and Ghemme, less than an hour for Malpensa.  You could go to Gran Paradiso maybe.

[G650 14256]

2 minutes ago, texasdago said:

you can go all the way to Courmayeur by Mont Blanc and it is stunningly beautiful.

That's quite a hike. Definitely awesome though.

[Loco 3752]

3 minutes ago, G650 said:

Do you have any accommodation in Milan or are you clean sheet right now?

Nothing booked but airfare.   I do have the wife and kids (14 & 15)

[texasdago 7573]

Just now, G650 said:

That's quite a hike. Definitely awesome though.

Its doable... you don't have to go all the way to Courmayeur.  There is plenty in the valley without going all the way to Courmayeur.  There is the fort at Bard (opening scenes of Age of Ultron) lots of wineries, other small towns.  Living in Houston, driving 2 hours is nothing.

[G650 14256]

3 minutes ago, Loco said:

Nothing booked but airfare.   I do have the wife and kids (14 & 15)

Malpensa is out of town and towards other stuff, almost equidistant to the town of Como and Milan proper, so you can easily pick somewhere else to go.

[G650 14256]

1 minute ago, texasdago said:

Its doable... you don't have to go all the way to Courmayeur.  There is plenty in the valley without going all the way to Courmayeur.  There is the fort at Bard (opening scenes of Age of Ultron) lots of wineries, other small towns.  Living in Houston, driving 2 hours is nothing.

Oh, for sure. Just draggin kids and the whole nine, might want to have a close by option instead that's all.

[texasdago 7573]

Just now, G650 said:

Oh, for sure. Just draggin kids and the whole nine, might want to have a close by option instead that's all.

For sure.  Maybe you can go to Monza and visit the track.  All depends what the kids are into.

[52-80 19159]

Como is nice but so is Lugano, that entire region is worth a drive and a quick stop.  Get a car and head through there, then to the San Bernardino pass.  You get a little of everything

[Loco 3752]

Just checked to see if the tour was going to be near by...NOPE

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19101]

I would stay in Milan.  There are some amazing things to see and do in Milan itself.  Da Vinci's the Last Supper is there.  Then there is the Duomo.  I will know more once I have visited later this month. 

[G650 14256]

53 minutes ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

I would stay in Milan.  There are some amazing things to see and do in Milan itself.  Da Vinci's the Last Supper is there.  Then there is the Duomo.  I will know more once I have visited later this month. 

I've always loved Milan myself, but it's definitely a polarizing place. For @Loco it really depends on what his fam is into. It's actually more difficult to get to from Malpensa than the surrounding areas too, so if it's just a layover that's something to think about.

My number one recommendation would be to catch a show at La Scala.

[VABuckeye 2472]

Milan isn't close to being my favorite city in Italy.  It's industrial.  One could take the train to Alba and stay there right in the middle of the Piedmonte wine region.  Or hit one of the lakes and stay there.

 

It's an hour and a half to Como and about two hours to Lake Garda.  Alba is about 60 miles away.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19101]

1 minute ago, G650 said:

I've always loved Milan myself, but it's definitely a polarizing place. For @Loco it really depends on what his fam is into. It's actually more difficult to get to from Malpensa than the surrounding areas too, so if it's just a layover that's something to think about.

My number one recommendation would be to catch a show at La Scala.

Apologies that I left La Scala out.  That is exactly what we are doing while there.  

[South Austin 52507]

12 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

Milan isn't close to being my favorite city in Italy.  It's industrial.  One could take the train to Alba and stay there right in the middle of the Piedmonte wine region.  Or hit one of the lakes and stay there.

Concur.

Wife and I flew into Milan and were underwhelmed.  The Duomo was nice, but it just felt like an old, big, industrial city.  We cut that part of the trip short and headed straight to Barolo. 

[G650 14256]

41 minutes ago, South Austin said:

 it just felt like an old, big, industrial city.  

Totally. And why I love it.

[Loco 3752]

58 minutes ago, G650 said:

I've always loved Milan myself, but it's definitely a polarizing place. For @Loco it really depends on what his fam is into. It's actually more difficult to get to from Malpensa than the surrounding areas too, so if it's just a layover that's something to think about.

My number one recommendation would be to catch a show at La Scala.

A show at La Scala would be amazing...   one problem, we are just heading back from totally casual Greece trip ...  and we aren't checking bags.   So the chances we'll be dressed for the Opera  0.0%   And I'll cut the first bitch that recommends shopping for the whole fam-damly in Milan! 

[VABuckeye 2472]

It IS the fashion capital of the world.  lol

[G650 14256]

2 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

It IS the fashion capital of the world.  lol

 

Lulz.

[Loco 3752]

Excuse me, I'm in the middle seat...

Edited May 9, 2019 by Loco

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19101]

It IS the fashion capital of the world.  lol

Paris might have something to say about that.