The Italy Thread

[VABuckeye 2472]

They might but it's been acknowledged that at least for now it's Milan.

[52-80 19159]

That title actually now belongs to The Woodlands

[G650 14256]

Winner.

[G650 14256]

Looks like I might be relaxing in Como in August myself.

[Loco 3752]

Isn't August when Italy closes up shop and leaves for the month?  

Edited May 10, 2019 by Loco

[texasdago 7573]

Yes.  Sort of.  I had the pleasure of being in Milano over Ferragosto weekend - a major holiday in the middle of August.  The city was empty.  It was amazing!  Walked peacefully in beautiful empty squares.  The Castello Sforzesco (which was amazing) was so peaceful.  

 

That said, I think there is more to Milano than meets the eye but, as someone else said and as I suggested, plenty of great places within driving distance of Malpensa.

[PencilPusher 454]

So I have been meaning to post a few shots (of the over 1000 I took) from trip to Italy in March...hopefully some of you who haven't been to Italy will be further inspired. Here is a few from Rome:

Renegade picture of ceiling of Sistine Chapel. Even in March, there was damn near 300-400 people crowded into the chapel which made taking this more difficult (beside the over-observant Vatican Museum personnel). 

 

Michaelangelo's Pieta

Fontana di Trevi at Night. Also crowded, but able to get close enough to take a pic that looks like no one was there

View of the Pantheon in through the Fontana del Pantheon

We were actually at the Pantheon on Unification Day, which is March 17th. There was a ceremony inside and there were wreaths and guards on the graves of both Vittorio Emmanuele II and his son Umberto. I'm mostly Irish and Italian, which means March 17th is a culturally important day for me and I have been lucky to be in both Ireland and Italy on March 17th. 

Again, recommendation for La Sagrestia which is right down the street (< 1000 yards) from the Pantheon. Thanks to Penelope Witherspoon for highlighting this place in her thread

More to come when I get around to it. 

[VABuckeye 2472]

Use IMGBB to upload photos.

[Frieda’s Boss 181]

Planning a trip for next summer - back half of June. Is their a discernible difference (in terms of crowds and whatnot) if the trip extends into the first week of July? Depending on school schedules, we can do something like Jun 12-25 or Jun 18-Jul 5. This thread is awesome - thanks all. 

[Hate 20108]

On 5/9/2019 at 5:04 PM, 52-80 said:

That title actually now belongs to The Woodlands

Hollah!

[52-80 19159]

11 hours ago, Frieda’s Boss said:

Planning a trip for next summer - back half of June. Is their a discernible difference (in terms of crowds and whatnot) if the trip extends into the first week of July? Depending on school schedules, we can do something like Jun 12-25 or Jun 18-Jul 5. This thread is awesome - thanks all. 

Probably not.  Anytime after late winter is crowded.  Also bill be very hot.

 

for Rome I found that I only needed one web source of information and its really good - romewise.com

eater.com also has seriously reliable guide for eating in Rome, and other parts of Italy

[Loco 3752]

I got what I can only assume is a love letter from Italy today!  It must be important because it came via Certified Letter!  I can't wait to get it translated, I wonder what it says?!

Spoiler

Protocol: 393608 / 2018 Letter : E Nr. of form : 2050xxx Place of offence: : VLE ETRURIA Date : 15-07-2018 Time : 05:14:00 Brand and type of vehicle : CAR Number Plate : FK6xxxx Art.: 142 - Comma: 8 Nature of offence : The driver was driving the vehicle at a speed of km/h exceeding by more than 10 but less than 40 km/h the fixed speed limit of 50 km/h for that stretch of road (applying a 5% tolerance with a minimum of 5 km/h for a speed <= 100 km/h to 67.00 km/h detected by a speed detection device). In accordance with Article 195 paragraph 2bis the amount of the violation has to be increased by 1/3 since the violation was committed between 10 pm and 7 am.   Photo:    Payment Date: 25-06-2019 Amount:: 173.84

 

  ...  I love you Firenze!  You Kinky!

 

Edited June 25, 2019 by Loco

[Gil Bang 25959]

heard from my friend from San Diego that retired to Umbria.  Great news:  they discovered a place that makes and sells tortillas.  So, his visitors no longer have to bring a carry-on full of tortillas!   

 

[Biff Tannen 45687]

58 minutes ago, Loco said:

I got what I can only assume is a love letter from Italy today!  It must be important because it came via Certified Letter!  I can't wait to get it translated, I wonder what it says?!

  Hide contents

Protocol: 393608 / 2018 Letter : E Nr. of form : 2050xxx Place of offence: : VLE ETRURIA Date : 15-07-2018 Time : 05:14:00 Brand and type of vehicle : CAR Number Plate : FK6xxxx Art.: 142 - Comma: 8 Nature of offence : The driver was driving the vehicle at a speed of km/h exceeding by more than 10 but less than 40 km/h the fixed speed limit of 50 km/h for that stretch of road (applying a 5% tolerance with a minimum of 5 km/h for a speed <= 100 km/h to 67.00 km/h detected by a speed detection device). In accordance with Article 195 paragraph 2bis the amount of the violation has to be increased by 1/3 since the violation was committed between 10 pm and 7 am.   Photo:    Payment Date: 25-06-2019 Amount:: 173.84

 

  ...  I love you Firenze!  You Kinky!

 

That's from July 15 and it just came today?  Man, I thought I was in the clear from my trip in September.

[Loco 3752]

37 minutes ago, Biff Tannen said:

That's from July 15 and it just came today?  Man, I thought I was in the clear from my trip in September.

yeah that's from last year on 7/15.  I have heard it can take over a year.  Evidently Florence is REALLY aggressive on tickets.

[Biff Tannen 45687]

13 minutes ago, Loco said:

yeah that's from last year on 7/15.  I have heard it can take over a year.  Evidently Florence is REALLY aggressive on tickets.

Fack.  Welp, guess I'll just see what happens.  I thought I was really careful, but who knows.   I'm going back again in September too.  

[VABuckeye 2472]

I got a ticket sent from my 2015 trip. It was also in Florence.  I ignored it and it had no affect on renting a car last year in Florence. 

[Loco 3752]

2 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

I got a ticket sent from my 2015 trip. It was also in Florence.  I ignored it and it had no affect on renting a car last year in Florence. 

Yes, but I have lived my life by a set of rules...

Rule #1 Don't end up in a foreign jail

 

I paid it, it sucks, won't go back to Florence, especially after the stats I saw on their little money making racket.  I know the exact moment that I got the ticket, there was a slight hill and at the bottom, flash!  They placed the speed trap at the bottom of the hill and it worked.  

Fun fact! My ticket was a little after 5am (we left early to drive up to Milan) so they added 30% because it was between 10pm & 7am. wtf?

[texasdago 7573]

I don't know how I've never gotten a ticket... I'll drive 2-4 weeks in Italy almost every year and I am rather, ah, aggressive.  Just have to watch for the Autovelox and avoid the ZTL.  Only ticket I ever got was forgetting to pay for parking at an Italian ski resort.  That was all on me.  

[VABuckeye 2472]

Florence nails tourists with their “you can only drive this direction on the street at a certain time of day”.   That’s the ticket I got. 

[G650 14256]

Off to Lago di Como this afternoon. I'm ecstatic to have finally carved out enough time after the past few hectic years to get back.

[Biff Tannen 45687]

Nice. Isn't shit all shut down in August though?

[G650 14256]

16 minutes ago, Biff Tannen said:

Nice. Isn't shit all shut down in August though?

Not there, that's where everyone is instead of working. Tbh, I would not pick this week because its fucking bonkers there, but it was the only week we could possibly get away.

[Loco 3752]

If you have time and want to chill away from the crowds, I recommend getting a bottle of wine and some snacks a catch a sunset ...

imgur

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From Varena ferry stop move to your right (as you are facing the town/hill) and up hill and you'll find a path marked for Castello di Vezio.  Follow that up up up till you get to a small town of Vezio ....  Further up and to the left is Castello di Vezio, but if you cut through the town (and a little olive grove) you can make your way to the Agriturismo.  The grounds are quite and have great views of the lake.  I would wholeheartedly recommend staying at the Agriturismo, but the place we stayed in was nice but the bed was apparently make of concrete...  steel reinforced hardened concrete.

 

[G650 14256]

[Loco 3752]

say hello to the lobby boy for me...

 

All I could think of going by that place...

[G650 14256]

10 minutes ago, Loco said:

say hello to the lobby boy for me...

 

All I could think of going by that place...

Same here, it's a spitting image.

[Biff Tannen 45687]

28 minutes ago, G650 said:

I spent an afternoon at that bar down there last year.  Did not stay in the hotel, however.  Good choice and nice humble brag.

[G650 14256]

24 minutes ago, Biff Tannen said:

I spent an afternoon at that bar down there last year.  Did not stay in the hotel, however.  Good choice and nice humble brag.

This is my second stay here. Can't recommend enough, they are as good as I've seen on service anywhere in the planet.

 

Edit: Posting this from that bar 

Edited August 12, 2019 by G650

[sidis 9828]

god damnit, g650.  fucking ruined my day.

nice.

[kevwun 15788]

On 6/4/2019 at 11:12 AM, 52-80 said:

Probably not.  Anytime after late winter is crowded.  Also bill be very hot.

 

for Rome I found that I only needed one web source of information and its really good - romewise.com

eater.com also has seriously reliable guide for eating in Rome, and other parts of Italy

Also, if texdago recommends a restaurant, you should go to it.  His advice will never lead you wrong.

[sidis 9828]

40 minutes ago, G650 said:

This is my second stay here. Can't recommend enough, they are as good as I've seen on service anywhere in the planet.

 

Edit: Posting this from that bar 

seriously, while you are there, swing around to the other side and go to lezzeno.  there is a tiny little restaurant there called da abate.  tiny little stone house.  owner is a seriously cool guy and the fish is out of this world.  highly recommend for one of the lesser than posh evening alternatives while you are there.

enjoy.  i'm suddenly planning my return.

[G650 14256]

22 minutes ago, sidis said:

seriously, while you are there, swing around to the other side and go to lezzeno.  there is a tiny little restaurant there called da abate.  tiny little stone house.  owner is a seriously cool guy and the fish is out of this world.  highly recommend for one of the lesser than posh evening alternatives while you are there.

enjoy.  i'm suddenly planning my return.

I will absolutely do it and report back.

 

Tbh, I could basically go to Como for every holiday. Been low key scoping property here for a few years.

[texasdago 7573]

I"m at the point where tourism has gotten so overwhelming that I almost want to say "you should totally spend all your vacation in Rome, Florence and Venice" so I can go where there are fewer crowds :D.  

[ChiTownDoc 21154]

11 hours ago, texasdago said:

I"m at the point where tourism has gotten so overwhelming that I almost want to say "you should totally spend all your vacation in Rome, Florence and Venice" so I can go where there are fewer crowds :D.  

I try my best to go in the 'offseason'.  In quotes because there doesn't seem to be an offseason anymore.  That being said one of my favorite trips was taking in the countryside in Bologna etc...much smaller crowds and a very enjoyable trip. 

Heading to Spain w the guys then fly to Milan to meet wife after Labor Day.  Thinking just a day there then Florence - hoping crowds have died a bit with school starting.  Worth taking the bullet train back to Milan and spending a couple days on Lake Como?  Keep in mind we have 6 total days and love history - Florence is really all we have not hit as far as a major Italian city.  

[G650 14256]

Como is always worth it. But you should see Florence once if you haven't yet.

[VABuckeye 2472]

If you like art and wine Florence is a wonderful place to be. 

[Loco 3752]

8 hours ago, ChiTownDoc said:

I try my best to go in the 'offseason'.  In quotes because there doesn't seem to be an offseason anymore.  That being said one of my favorite trips was taking in the countryside in Bologna etc...much smaller crowds and a very enjoyable trip. 

Heading to Spain w the guys then fly to Milan to meet wife after Labor Day.  Thinking just a day there then Florence - hoping crowds have died a bit with school starting.  Worth taking the bullet train back to Milan and spending a couple days on Lake Como?  Keep in mind we have 6 total days and love history - Florence is really all we have not hit as far as a major Italian city.  

Florence was my least favorite ..  there's a Disney store a block from the Cathedral.  Just felt like a giant tourist trap.   In fairness, we breezed through and I didn't plan anything beyond the highlights.   Prepare to hear about the most hyped average steak you've ever eaten.

[sidis 9828]

10 hours ago, ChiTownDoc said:

I try my best to go in the 'offseason'.  In quotes because there doesn't seem to be an offseason anymore.  That being said one of my favorite trips was taking in the countryside in Bologna etc...much smaller crowds and a very enjoyable trip. 

Heading to Spain w the guys then fly to Milan to meet wife after Labor Day.  Thinking just a day there then Florence - hoping crowds have died a bit with school starting.  Worth taking the bullet train back to Milan and spending a couple days on Lake Como?  Keep in mind we have 6 total days and love history - Florence is really all we have not hit as far as a major Italian city.  

with 6 days and those three location options...

1 day milan.

3 in florence (including train travel in morning but it's a short trip) - this is assuming you really enjoy renaissance history in particular, medici, pitti, pazzi, revolution of art, literature, and architecture...brunelleschi, vasari, leonardo, michaelangelo, dante, etc... 

2 in lake como (including train travel from florence to milan, then pick up a car and drive the 40 minutes to lake como).

1 in milan (assuming you are flying back out of malpensa).

if it were me, i would flip florence and como in terms of number of days but have already spent a substantial amount of time in florence.  there are quite a few here who are pretty ambivalent about the city but i love it.  i wouldn't got in the summer and i would spend all my time lingering around the duomo or palazzo vecchio though.  go to trattoria sostanza for a great lunch/dinner and vivoli for gelato.

on your way back, you could go somewhat indirectly through modena and stop to have lunch at osteria francescana...maybe stop off at sant'agata bolognese to go see the where your new overly-subtle and understated lamborghini was made.  just sayin'...

https://osteriafrancescana.dinesuperb.com/reserve/guests

 

[ChiTownDoc 21154]

7 hours ago, G650 said:

Como is always worth it. But you should see Florence once if you haven't yet.

 

3 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

If you like art and wine Florence is a wonderful place to be. 

 

3 hours ago, Loco said:

Florence was my least favorite ..  there's a Disney store a block from the Cathedral.  Just felt like a giant tourist trap.   In fairness, we breezed through and I didn't plan anything beyond the highlights.   Prepare to hear about the most hyped average steak you've ever eaten.

 

1 hour ago, sidis said:

with 6 days and those three location options...

1 day milan.

3 in florence (including train travel in morning but it's a short trip) - this is assuming you really enjoy renaissance history in particular, medici, pitti, pazzi, revolution of art, literature, and architecture...brunelleschi, vasari, leonardo, michaelangelo, dante, etc... 

2 in lake como (including train travel from florence to milan, then pick up a car and drive the 40 minutes to lake como).

1 in milan (assuming you are flying back out of malpensa).

if it were me, i would flip florence and como in terms of number of days but have already spent a substantial amount of time in florence.  there are quite a few here who are pretty ambivalent about the city but i love it.  i wouldn't got in the summer and i would spend all my time lingering around the duomo or palazzo vecchio though.  go to trattoria sostanza for a great lunch/dinner and vivoli for gelato.

on your way back, you could go somewhat indirectly through modena and stop to have lunch at osteria francescana...maybe stop off at sant'agata bolognese to go see the where your new overly-subtle and understated lamborghini was made.  just sayin'...

https://osteriafrancescana.dinesuperb.com/reserve/guests

 

Appreciate the advice gents.  Will hit Como at least two days.  Will brave the crowds to get my history fix in Florence.  

I raced Lambos at Sant’agata Bolognese 2 years ago.  Was bad ass.  Will try to plan a guys trip back there.  

[sidis 9828]

40 minutes ago, ChiTownDoc said:

 Will try to plan a guys trip back there.  

and you will include me in the plans and offer to comp the whole thing for me.  i'll endure damn, dirty sooners if it involves racing criminally insane italian supercars through emilia romagna. 

some good itinerary suggestions by aoc above. 

in my post above, there was a typo where "would" should be "wouldn't" re: just hanging around santa maria del fiore and the palazzo vecchio.  lots of great spots that aren't quite so overrun.  david is awesome but go see the tombs of lorenzo and giulliano in the medici chapel of san lorenzo for a more up close and personal experience, etc... 

[G650 14256]

Hell, you wouldn't need to comp me.

[VABuckeye 2472]

Yeah, no comp needed for Italy.  I'm already itching to go back.  I'll probably do Spain first though as I also loved Madrid.

[Biff Tannen 45687]

I'm actually going back in a couple of weeks, right after Labor Day.  Found out a friend's dad has a villa in Tuscany that we can use, so yep, gonna hang out for 10 days or so and just live the life.

[Spoosner 86]

The wife and I are going for a wedding in September.  We will have a couple nights in Florence before the wedding, so the above posts have been quite helpful.  We will be on our own from Sunday, Sept 29th - Saturday, Oct 5 when we fly out of Rome at 7:05 AM (so really we have to be in Rome on Friday, Oct 4th).

So, what would you do with about 5 nights and 4 days.  The caveat is that my wife studied abroad in Florence many moons ago, so she has been to Como, Amalfi, Florence, Rome.  I've been to Rome a couple times and Venice once.  I'd like to do something new to both of us, perhaps a little more off the beaten path, but without sacrificing good food, wine, and scenery.

Sicily is intriguing to me.  There are cheap direct flights from Florence to Catania on the 29th (or a short stop in Rome to fly to Palermo instead).  Numerous options to fly to Rome on the 4th.  Anybody have Sicily experience?  Love or hate?  Where would you go with Sunday evening to Friday afternoon on your hands?

Sardinia is another option, although it appears we'd have a short layover in Rome.  It appears we could also take a ferry from Livorno to Olbia, but the reviews are pretty terrible.

Any completely different recs?  

[sidis 9828]

sardinia is always a good spot.

if you want something that isn't a typical italian tourist destination (cities/amalfi/capri) and a little bit different than umbria/tuscany for the countryside, there are a lot of good posts in this thread about the often-neglected southeastern part of italy...in an around the bari and lecce areas that you may want to go read.

if you like lake como but don't want the crowds and want something a bit more off the beaten path, the other lakes are pretty amazing as well...lago d'iseo/lago di garda/lago d'idro.

liguria is always attractive...tiny towns on the coast. 

or some tiny mountain town like castel del monte in abruzzo if you're really trying to get away.

Edited August 13, 2019 by sidis

[Spoosner 86]

1 hour ago, sidis said:

sardinia is always a good spot.

As mentioned, we will basically have 5 nights.  What 2 or 3 places would you put highest on your Sardinia list?

[sidis 9828]

beaches man.  if you aren't already hitting beaches as part of the wedding or the rest of your travel, i would definitely hit the beaches.  costa smeralda and the rest of the north end beaches are jaw-dropping...as are the tits.  stunning. cala luna...they're all great.

but it is definitely more isolated and rural up there.  if you want an urban home base, cagliari is really the only option and it is in the south.  good news, the south has unbelievable beaches as well.

just my opinion.  sardinians are a bit of a different brand of folks.  just fair warning.

[52-80 19159]

3 hours ago, Spoosner said:

The wife and I are going for a wedding in September.  We will have a couple nights in Florence before the wedding, so the above posts have been quite helpful.  We will be on our own from Sunday, Sept 29th - Saturday, Oct 5 when we fly out of Rome at 7:05 AM (so really we have to be in Rome on Friday, Oct 4th).

So, what would you do with about 5 nights and 4 days.  The caveat is that my wife studied abroad in Florence many moons ago, so she has been to Como, Amalfi, Florence, Rome.  I've been to Rome a couple times and Venice once.  I'd like to do something new to both of us, perhaps a little more off the beaten path, but without sacrificing good food, wine, and scenery.

Sicily is intriguing to me.  There are cheap direct flights from Florence to Catania on the 29th (or a short stop in Rome to fly to Palermo instead).  Numerous options to fly to Rome on the 4th.  Anybody have Sicily experience?  Love or hate?  Where would you go with Sunday evening to Friday afternoon on your hands?

Sardinia is another option, although it appears we'd have a short layover in Rome.  It appears we could also take a ferry from Livorno to Olbia, but the reviews are pretty terrible.

Any completely different recs?  

Siena

[sidis 9828]

4 minutes ago, Axiom of Choice said:

Is there general agreement here that Pisa is the most overrated spot in all of Italy? It's never my intention to shit on anyone's plans or knock a place someone enjoyed, but that's probably the only place in Italy that I don't care to ever visit again.  

hop off the train from florence, show up, take a pic of the tower, enjoy the nice grass around the cathedral on the other side for ten minutes, take a pic with the dudes everywhere sporting automatic weapons, jump back on the train, off to cinque terra.  no need to ever return.