The Italy Thread

[Hate 20107]

3 hours ago, Spoosner said:

The wife and I are going for a wedding in September.  We will have a couple nights in Florence before the wedding, so the above posts have been quite helpful.  We will be on our own from Sunday, Sept 29th - Saturday, Oct 5 when we fly out of Rome at 7:05 AM (so really we have to be in Rome on Friday, Oct 4th).

So, what would you do with about 5 nights and 4 days.  The caveat is that my wife studied abroad in Florence many moons ago, so she has been to Como, Amalfi, Florence, Rome.  I've been to Rome a couple times and Venice once.  I'd like to do something new to both of us, perhaps a little more off the beaten path, but without sacrificing good food, wine, and scenery.

Sicily is intriguing to me.  There are cheap direct flights from Florence to Catania on the 29th (or a short stop in Rome to fly to Palermo instead).  Numerous options to fly to Rome on the 4th.  Anybody have Sicily experience?  Love or hate?  Where would you go with Sunday evening to Friday afternoon on your hands?

Sardinia is another option, although it appears we'd have a short layover in Rome.  It appears we could also take a ferry from Livorno to Olbia, but the reviews are pretty terrible.

Any completely different recs?  

 

50 minutes ago, 52-80 said:

Siena

This right here.  Siena was fantastic and not nearly as crowded as Florence.  There are many wine tours from Siena to go into the Chianti region as well.  We took a tour that stopped at 3 different wineries and they were all fantastic.  You can also day trip to places like Montalcino, which is a beautiful hilltop town in the region.

 

 

[Gil Bang 25922]

I did the above and it was amazing

[Biff Tannen 45666]

1 hour ago, Gil Bang said:

I did the above and it was amazing

I concur

[Loco 3752]

I really liked Sienna. Crazy how big that Duomo was supposed to be...

[AustinMT 952]

[GopherRock 1765]

Subscribing.

So the Mrs. and I will be in Italy for two weeks over Christmas this upcoming winter. Our plan is Christmas in Rome, and a couple days in Venice sometime in the, but otherwise we're fairly open to suggestions. 

[G650 14246]

Full moon rising over lake and Alps.

[ChiTownDoc 21144]

1 hour ago, GopherRock said:

Subscribing.

So the Mrs. and I will be in Italy for two weeks over Christmas this upcoming winter. Our plan is Christmas in Rome, and a couple days in Venice sometime in the, but otherwise we're fairly open to suggestions. 

I’m from Chicago, so take this w a grain of salt but Rome was really decent weather when we did it in early January a couple years ago. I HATE crowds so after a tropical New Year’s Eve we hit Rome and it was perfect.  Not really cold and not too many crowds.  Good shopping made the wife happy.  

[shakahorn 1645]

21 hours ago, AustinMT said:

Where exactly is this?  Wife and I leave in a few days for Naples, Capri and Praiano then driving down to Sicily for Taormina and Palermo.  All the Amalfi travel is being done by boat or hired car based on the advice given in this thread.

[VABuckeye 2472]

[AustinMT 952]

2 hours ago, shakahorn said:

Where exactly is this?  Wife and I leave in a few days for Naples, Capri and Praiano then driving down to Sicily for Taormina and Palermo.  All the Amalfi travel is being done by boat or hired car based on the advice given in this thread.

Positano, on the Amalfi coast

[McCroskey 1504]

This afternoon, booked our week in Italy for next summer with my parents. It will be their first time in Europe so unfortunately sticking mostly to Rome & Naples.

Still, really looking forward to it already. Love this country.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Spoosner 86]

On 8/13/2019 at 4:05 PM, sidis said:

beaches man.  if you aren't already hitting beaches as part of the wedding or the rest of your travel, i would definitely hit the beaches.  costa smeralda and the rest of the north end beaches are jaw-dropping...as are the tits.  stunning. cala luna...they're all great.

but it is definitely more isolated and rural up there.  if you want an urban home base, cagliari is really the only option and it is in the south.  good news, the south has unbelievable beaches as well.

just my opinion.  sardinians are a bit of a different brand of folks.  just fair warning.

So I was pretty much swayed by your beach suggestion, but then I took a look at average temperatures for October.  Seems we should expect highs in the 70s, which sounds a bit cold to be swimming in the ocean.  

[chesthair 231]

Ok, I'm still unsure what to do.  Planning on 7-10 days in Italy next summer.  This is a family trip and it is for my oldest son's graduation (Italy was his pick).  It almost seems like we need to pick either southern or northern Italy or could we do both in that time frame?  Seems like flying in/out of Rome is the best choice and that would give us 1-2 days there to hit the highlights.  Amalfi Coast looks awesome but so does lake Como.  Is the group think we should pick between N/S and go?   

[VABuckeye 2472]

Not enough days is what I think.  I wouldn't want 7-10 days with at least two if not three days that are pretty much only travel days.

[Biff Tannen 45666]

2 hours ago, chesthair said:

Ok, I'm still unsure what to do.  Planning on 7-10 days in Italy next summer.  This is a family trip and it is for my oldest son's graduation (Italy was his pick).  It almost seems like we need to pick either southern or northern Italy or could we do both in that time frame?  Seems like flying in/out of Rome is the best choice and that would give us 1-2 days there to hit the highlights.  Amalfi Coast looks awesome but so does lake Como.  Is the group think we should pick between N/S and go?   

I did the North in 16 days last fall and it was just barely enough, for me anyway.

Verona -> Dolomites -> 2 nights in Switzerland -> Lake Como -> Cinque Terre -> Tuscany -> Florence -> Parma/Modena -> Venice

[Loco 3752]

2 minutes ago, Biff Tannen said:

I did the North in 16 days last fall and it was just barely enough, for me anyway.

Verona -> Dolomites -> 2 nights in Switzerland -> Lake Como -> Cinque Terre -> Tuscany -> Florence -> Parma/Modena -> Venice

I did 10 days in Tuscany and it was barely enough

[Biff Tannen 45666]

2 minutes ago, Loco said:

I did 10 days in Tuscany and it was barely enough

I can see that.  5 nights of my itinerary was Tuscany.  Going back in a couple of weeks to remedy that though.

[VABuckeye 2472]

I love Tuscany.  Specifically Radda, Gaoile in Chianti, Montalcino, San Sano,  Montepulciano (ok, technically not Tuscany) and Greve.   You can just plop me in that area for the whole month of September during the harvest festivals and I'll be as happy as a pig in mud.

Then I could move up to Piedmonte for October and the white truffle festival.

Damn, I need to do that trip and soon.

[chesthair 231]

ok, i took yalls advice and talked with the boy tonight, he is wanting to go for architecture, art, etc.  so now im thinking rome-train to florence maybe parma? bologna?  i think he would enjoy tuscany too.  maybe do that loop and back to rome?

has anyone ever read Playing for Pizza?  I want to do what he did...travel to small towns, hang in the piazza and eat/drink local.  

also, you have talked me into extending it, think we will make it 10-14 days (not including travel)

Edited August 16, 2019 by chesthair

[Hate 20107]

Here is your trip.

 

Rome>Siena>Bologna>Venice>Florence>Rome

 

From each of those stops you can plan some day trips outside of the city and each has a great piazza or two to day drink and people watch. There will be plenty of architecture at any and each of those places and none of the trains rides are more than 3 hours or so. You can easily hop on the train and be in the next town with plenty of time to hang out on your travel day so you aren’t wasting much time.

 

[Born a Longhorn 13]

On 8/13/2019 at 2:13 PM, Spoosner said:

The wife and I are going for a wedding in September.  We will have a couple nights in Florence before the wedding, so the above posts have been quite helpful.  We will be on our own from Sunday, Sept 29th - Saturday, Oct 5 when we fly out of Rome at 7:05 AM (so really we have to be in Rome on Friday, Oct 4th).

So, what would you do with about 5 nights and 4 days.  The caveat is that my wife studied abroad in Florence many moons ago, so she has been to Como, Amalfi, Florence, Rome.  I've been to Rome a couple times and Venice once.  I'd like to do something new to both of us, perhaps a little more off the beaten path, but without sacrificing good food, wine, and scenery.

Sicily is intriguing to me.  There are cheap direct flights from Florence to Catania on the 29th (or a short stop in Rome to fly to Palermo instead).  Numerous options to fly to Rome on the 4th.  Anybody have Sicily experience?  Love or hate?  Where would you go with Sunday evening to Friday afternoon on your hands?

Sardinia is another option, although it appears we'd have a short layover in Rome.  It appears we could also take a ferry from Livorno to Olbia, but the reviews are pretty terrible.

Any completely different recs?  

I loved Syracuse/Siracusa. We stayed at the Grand Hotel Ortigia in the old town district by the water and got our money's worth... tons of restaurants, shopping, and water views within an easy walk. The Greek and Roman ruins in town are incredible with views of the bay where 1000 Athenian triremes were destroyed by the Syracusans during the Pelopponesian Wars. Sicilians are very laid back and friendly. Highly recommend.

[Born a Longhorn 13]

Question for the southern Italy experts.

Wife and I are spending the final week of August in Naples... I have to work the first few days, but Thurs-Sun we'd like to get out to the Amalfi Coast. The question is whether to set up shop near Sorrento or in one of the coastal villages as our home base for 3 days. I don't think my wife would enjoy riding in a rental car with me along the Amalfi coastal road, so I had mainly focused on easy ways to get out there and enjoy things (train, buses, private driving tours, etc). It would be cool to get out to Capri, or at least do an Amalfi tour via boat, but not required.

Things we care about: views, drinking wine on a balcony of our own, being able to walk or easily transit to restaurants but still get back to the quiet areas for the evening

Things we don't care about: "premium" dining (it will all taste good to us), sitting on a beach, crowded areas.

Thoughts?

[Gil Bang 25922]

2 hours ago, chesthair said:

ok, i took yalls advice and talked with the boy tonight, he is wanting to go for architecture, art, etc.  so now im thinking rome-train to florence maybe parma? bologna?  i think he would enjoy tuscany too.  maybe do that loop and back to rome?

has anyone ever read Playing for Pizza?  I want to do what he did...travel to small towns, hang in the piazza and eat/drink local.  

also, you have talked me into extending it, think we will make it 10-14 days (not including travel)

Great book

[Loco 3752]

In Sienna...  http://www.osteriadadivo.com/?lang=en

Best meal I ate in Italy.   

[Loco 3752]

7 hours ago, Born a Longhorn said:

Things we care about: views, drinking wine on a balcony of our own, being able to walk or easily transit to restaurants but still get back to the quiet areas for the evening

Things we don't care about: "premium" dining (it will all taste good to us), sitting on a beach, crowded areas.

Thoughts?

[G650 14246]

Milano is definitely pretty quiet for the Ferragosto weekend. Plenty of tourons in the piazza tho.

[texasdago 7569]

I've been in Milano during Ferragosto... walk over to the Castello Sforzesco and it will be quiet.  That's what I did.

 

"Things we don't care about: "premium" dining (it will all taste good to us), sitting on a beach, crowded areas."

 

That's because you don't need premium dining in Italy.  The best places aren't fancy but typical local restaurants and trattorie that appeal to locals, not tourists.  That is especially true in Italy.

[Born a Longhorn 13]

Agreed (I've been there)... just trying to ward off the recommendations for restaurants, that's all. Plenty of posts above had pics of expensive-looking food... not our thing.

So, Sorrento vs. Amalfi coast villages?

[Smax 3800]

We will be in Milan at the end of next month for a wedding, any suggestions for cant miss restaurants?

[G650 14246]

Where are you staying? In my experience, all the Milan restaurants are very good, but none are a must see. Getting a quality place close by should be the goal. 

I ate tonight again at one of my favorite low key places, Il Coriandolo. It's just behind La Scala. 

[VABuckeye 2472]

On 8/15/2019 at 10:59 PM, Hate said:

Here is your trip.

 

Rome>Siena>Bologna>Venice>Florence>Rome

 

From each of those stops you can plan some day trips outside of the city and each has a great piazza or two to day drink and people watch. There will be plenty of architecture at any and each of those places and none of the trains rides are more than 3 hours or so. You can easily hop on the train and be in the next town with plenty of time to hang out on your travel day so you aren’t wasting much time.

 

7-10 days and you just gave him five travel days plus jet lag and day trips?   Jesus.  Might as well just stay on the train because there isn’t any time to stop and actually experience anything anywhere in there.  

[Hate 20107]

He says he’s extending it to 14 days. None of those trips is more than 3 hours on a train. Plenty of time to check out, hop on a train, and have your room be ready for check in when you arrive at the next stop.

[sidis 9825]

20 hours ago, Born a Longhorn said:

Agreed (I've been there)... just trying to ward off the recommendations for restaurants, that's all. Plenty of posts above had pics of expensive-looking food... not our thing.

So, Sorrento vs. Amalfi coast villages?

Positano or Capri is absolutely what you want. Sorrento is much larger. Sitting on balconies, drinking wine and enjoying the view is 100% positano. Haute cuisine is not really their thing (though there is great food there).

I have stayed in the sirenuse hotel there and the eden-roc there and both are precisely what you’re looking for. Trust me. 

[Smax 3800]

21 hours ago, G650 said:

Where are you staying? In my experience, all the Milan restaurants are very good, but none are a must see. Getting a quality place close by should be the goal. 

I ate tonight again at one of my favorite low key places, Il Coriandolo. It's just behind La Scala. 

Principe Di Savoia

[G650 14246]

2 hours ago, Smax said:

Principe Di Savoia

That's pretty much in the middle of hotel alley, and there are a lot of good places directly East and South East. I've had a good meal at Del Treno, which is like three block away from you.

[VABuckeye 2472]

15 hours ago, Hate said:

He says he’s extending it to 14 days. None of those trips is more than 3 hours on a train. Plenty of time to check out, hop on a train, and have your room be ready for check in when you arrive at the next stop.

I missed the trip extension. The three hours is a bit misleading. You have to pack, get to the station, do the train ride, get to your new hotel and get checked in.  That’s most of a day.  I’ve done it enough times there to know it’s true. 

I’m more of the pick 2-3 areas and establish a base there and explore.  Trying to do so many regions in one trip is just too much IMO. 

[Hate 20107]

I get that as well. The next time the wife and I go, we will probably pick 2 or 3 places over a couple of weeks. What I posted is a lot of travel, but it’s doable and the trips are short. And most of the places I mentioned can be “seen” in 2 days as far as hitting the major landmarks.

[texasdago 7569]

We normally go for 2-3 weeks.  Pick 2 bases in 2 different areas.  Then use each base to take side trips.  Drastically more relaxing.  When you feel like taking a side trip, you take a side trip.  When you don't, you enjoy where you're staying.  You really get to know a location that way and you end up seeing more smaller, interesting places.

 

[VABuckeye 2472]

Yeah, it's not like there's good wine and good food EVERYWHERE in Italy or anything like that.  😉

[Spoosner 86]

On 8/13/2019 at 1:20 PM, sidis said:

often-neglected southeastern part of italy...in an around the bari and lecce areas that you may want to go read.

Puglia is pretty much what we have decided on.  Will read back through this thread and do some research to plan our road trip.

As mentioned, our final night will be in Rome.  I know I need to go back through this thread, but best restaurant for final dinner?  Would probably prefer a lesser known hole in the wall, but can also go big if that's where the best food takes us.

[texasdago 7569]

Puglia is phenomenal... Gargano peninsula (lots of great beaches), Alberobello and the nearby countryside, Ostuni, Lecce, all of Salento (again, beaches), Monopoli/Polignano a Mare, Castellana Grotte (specifically the Grotte di Castellana... not far from Alberobello), the Alta Murgia area, Castel del Monte, etc etc etc.  You can also hop down to Basilicata and the Monte Vulture area/Melfi - lots of amazing Aglianico from that area.  

[Wiler77 1566]

I will be in Rome Sept. 17-19 for work (Tues-Thurs).  The original plan was to meet my wife in Geneva on Friday and tour whatever we could in Switzerland in 5 days and return home on Thurs.  The rub was I have other work obligations on Sun and Mon, including a private underground tour of the LHC at CERN.  So the trip would have been a little broken up.

 

For a variety of reasons, I've decided to bow out of the Sunday and Monday stuff and my wife and I are now considering her meeting me in Rome and us driving up the west coast and settle in Tuscany for 4-5 days.

1. Any must stop places along the way?

2. The number of choices of places to stay in Tuscany is overwhelming.  I think it would be fun to stay in a farmhouse, and I'm exclusively looking at those.

3. Undecided on if staying close to one of the more well known places like Siena is a good thing, or should we stay in the middle of complete nowhere that is still 30-45 minutes from some of the more famous towns as well as the beach.

 

[Biff Tannen 45666]

6 minutes ago, Wiler77 said:

I will be in Rome Sept. 17-19 for work (Tues-Thurs).  The original plan was to meet my wife in Geneva on Friday and tour whatever we could in Switzerland in 5 days and return home on Thurs.  The rub was I have other work obligations on Sun and Mon, including a private underground tour of the LHC at CERN.  So the trip would have been a little broken up.

 

For a variety of reasons, I've decided to bow out of the Sunday and Monday stuff and my wife and I are now considering her meeting me in Rome and us driving up the west coast and settle in Tuscany for 4-5 days.

1. Any must stop places along the way?

2. The number of choices of places to stay in Tuscany is overwhelming.  I think it would be fun to stay in a farmhouse, and I'm exclusively looking at those.

3. Undecided on if staying close to one of the more well known places like Siena is a good thing, or should we stay in the middle of complete nowhere that is still 30-45 minutes from some of the more famous towns as well as the beach.

 

We stayed in a couple of middle of nowhere places last fall and it was great.  Driving around Tuscany is half the fun.  I'm sure there are a ton like this, but here's where we were.

https://contidisanbonifacio.com/

https://www.borgosanluigi.it/en/index

 

 

[52-80 19147]

Good stops are medieval hilltop villages, and/or abandoned/dead/dying villages.  Like Civita Bagnoregio although it's interior of country and not coastal

[Wiler77 1566]

6 minutes ago, 52-80 said:

Good stops are medieval hilltop villages, and/or abandoned/dead/dying villages.  Like Civita Bagnoregio although it's interior of country and not coastal

What do you do at these villages?  Just walk around and take it in?  Are there restaurants to have a glass...err bottle...of wine?

[VABuckeye 2472]

It’s Italy.  Every town has places to drink wine. Lol.  That’s an amusing question. 

Coastal.  You’re near Bolgheri.  Super Tuscans reign.  Inland. Chianti Classico Región. Radda, Greve, Gaiole in Chianti, Montalcino (Brunello di Montalcino), Montepulciano, etc. etc. etc.  

Tuscan food is NOT what most Americans think of as Italian food.  Wild boar ragu, duck sauces.   The tomato is not prevalent in dishes there but the food is fantastic.  Farther north the tomato is used even less. 

Edited August 28, 2019 by VABuckeye

[52-80 19147]

9 hours ago, Wiler77 said:

What do you do at these villages?  Just walk around and take it in?  Are there restaurants to have a glass...err bottle...of wine?

theyre photogenic.  stroll around for half an hour.  settle in at the tons of cafes around village center... have a wine, porchetta sandwich, snack.  onto the next one

[chesthair 231]

On 8/15/2019 at 9:59 PM, Hate said:

Here is your trip.

 

Rome>Siena>Bologna>Venice>Florence>Rome

 

From each of those stops you can plan some day trips outside of the city and each has a great piazza or two to day drink and people watch. There will be plenty of architecture at any and each of those places and none of the trains rides are more than 3 hours or so. You can easily hop on the train and be in the next town with plenty of time to hang out on your travel day so you aren’t wasting much time.

 

How about this:
 

Rome>Siena>Cinque Terre>Florence>Rome?

Yes, I watched rick steves this weekend and the cinque terre seems like a must (and better than venice???).  Plan on airb&b/etc for everywhere except Rome. 

Also, can all of that be done via train/public transportation?  I dont want to rent a car unless i have to. 

[Biff Tannen 45666]

19 minutes ago, chesthair said:

How about this:
 

Rome>Siena>Cinque Terre>Florence>Rome?

Yes, I watched rick steves this weekend and the cinque terre seems like a must (and better than venice???).  Plan on airb&b/etc for everywhere except Rome. 

Also, can all of that be done via train/public transportation?  I dont want to rent a car unless i have to. 

Cinque Terre is...ok.  If you're going, I would recommend staying in Portovenere and taking the ferry over to the villages during the day.  Rick Steves builds it up a bit more than it is worth, IMO.