The Italy Thread

[VABuckeye 2472]

21 hours ago, Southland said:

A couple more questions: Do I need reservations at any of the wineries or can you just show up?

Yes for most.  If you want to go to a small vineyard you most definitely should make a reservation.  If you're going to a big one like Barnoe Ricasoli you can walk in.

[Chopper 17243]

My wife was in Florence on business for a month in October. For anyone considering taking a cooking class, she strongly recommends Invatola. 

She also took classes at Florencetown and Chefactory and said they were good, but that Invatola stood out. Florencetown is the one near the market and is much more well-known. At Invatola, the owner is also the main instructor and once the food is prepared, everyone descends to a gorgeous dining room in their beautiful Florentine basement. 

 

Edited December 20, 2022 by Chopper

[Litig8r 414]

Suggestions needed.  Headed to Italy in late September.  Arrive on 9/21 and have to be in Rome on 9/29 for an event.  I went to Rome and Florence decades ago.  Went to Milan a couple of years ago.  I plans for 9/30 and 10/1 in Rome and depart on 10/2.  I'd like to see the highlights of Rome again and would like a rec on a private tour guide for 9/28-9/29.  Wife wants to go the Amalfi coast.  I'd like to do Tuscany.  I don't want to fight suitcases and spend too much time traveling.  Florence is bitch to fly into.  Naples has a direct flight from ATL.  Is it dumb to fly to Naples and go to Amalfi coast, then schelp to Tuscany and then back to Rome?  

[VABuckeye 2472]

That seems reasonable to me.  We plan our trips around one suitcase each and a carry-on at that if we can manage it.  We're doing northern Italy (a couple of off the beaten path places) in September.  Because we'll be up by the Alps and Dolomites we may have to pack more clothing than normal.

You'll be able to take high speed trains from Naples to Florence and then rent a car to enjoy Tuscany and another high speed train from Florence to Rome.

[Litig8r 414]

8 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

That seems reasonable to me.  We plan our trips around one suitcase each and a carry-on at that if we can manage it.  We're doing northern Italy (a couple of off the beaten path places) in September.  Because we'll be up by the Alps and Dolomites we may have to pack more clothing than normal.

You'll be able to take high speed trains from Naples to Florence and then rent a car to enjoy Tuscany and another high speed train from Florence to Rome.

Won't we need a car to get from Naples to Amalfi area?  Is driving in Italy a big problem.  I've driven in France without issues.

 

[Biff Tannen 45710]

8 minutes ago, Litig8r said:

Won't we need a car to get from Naples to Amalfi area?  Is driving in Italy a big problem.  I've driven in France without issues.

 

Driving in Italy is fun as hell.

Edited February 28, 2023 by Biff Tannen
I've never driven in the south, so I'll let someone else chime in, but Tuscany and northward is a blast

[South Austin 52563]

7 minutes ago, Litig8r said:

Won't we need a car to get from Naples to Amalfi area?  Is driving in Italy a big problem.  I've driven in France without issues.

Yes, you'll need a car to get from Naples to Amalfi.  When I was in Amalfi in 2004, I had a driver.

3 minutes ago, Biff Tannen said:

Driving in Italy is fun as hell.

And in places like the Amalfi Coast, also terrifying at times.

[VABuckeye 2472]

15 minutes ago, Litig8r said:

Won't we need a car to get from Naples to Amalfi area?  Is driving in Italy a big problem. 

Absolutely not and I would not suggest that you do.  Driving the Amalfi Coast is not for the faint of heart.  There is a ferry out of Naples to get you to Sorrento and additional ferries between the towns and to Capri as well.

Driving in Tuscany is just like driving in the US.  There can be a lot of bicyclists but there is also a lot more respect there between bikers and drivers.

Edited February 28, 2023 by VABuckeye

[Biff Tannen 45710]

1 minute ago, VABuckeye said:

There can be a lot of bicyclists but there is also a lot more respect there between bikers and drivers.

Oh man, I was driving in Greve and there was a fucking HUGE bicycle race that day.  They don't close the roads, you just have to be ready for 65 bicyclists rounding the corners going downhill at 40mph without warning.  It was fucking nuts.  

[Ted Lange 16113]

 

[Gil Bang 25997]

1) Amalfi is beautiful

2) Amalfi roads are terrifying

3) Fuck Amalfi stairs. All 98 trillion of them.

[Biff Tannen 45710]

8 hours ago, Ted Lange said:

 

ZTLs don’t fuck around. 

[VABuckeye 2472]

How could an idiot think it's ok to drive on the Ponte Vecchio?  It's clearly a walking bridge.

[VABuckeye 2472]

A few questions about those that have done northern Italy. 

We're looking at a few locations that aren't typical.  Lake Brales, the Dolomites and Aosta Valley.  Any input is appreciated. 

We'll be filling in later portions of the trip with Bologna and Florence although Cinque Terre isn't out of the question.  The trip is from 9/15 - 10/2 and we'll probably stay at four locations max as we overdid the traveling in Spain and felt like we were traveling too much during the trip.  That was 22 days but we stayed in 7 locations.  This trip is 16 days bookended by travel to and from Milan.

[Mo Horn 8853]

2 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

A few questions about those that have done northern Italy. 

We're looking at a few locations that aren't typical.  Lake Brales, the Dolomites and Aosta Valley.  Any input is appreciated. 

We'll be filling in later portions of the trip with Bologna and Florence although Cinque Terre isn't out of the question.  The trip is from 9/15 - 10/2 and we'll probably stay at four locations max as we overdid the traveling in Spain and felt like we were traveling too much during the trip.  That was 22 days but we stayed in 7 locations.  This trip is 16 days bookended by travel to and from Milan.

We did Italy that same time frame in '21. Didn't do the north and took the train to Florence for just one day, but spent several days in the Cinque Terre and it was glorious. So I can help with that if you have questions. 

[Biff Tannen 45710]

11 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

A few questions about those that have done northern Italy. 

We're looking at a few locations that aren't typical.  Lake Brales, the Dolomites and Aosta Valley.  Any input is appreciated. 

We'll be filling in later portions of the trip with Bologna and Florence although Cinque Terre isn't out of the question.  The trip is from 9/15 - 10/2 and we'll probably stay at four locations max as we overdid the traveling in Spain and felt like we were traveling too much during the trip.  That was 22 days but we stayed in 7 locations.  This trip is 16 days bookended by travel to and from Milan.

I was going to do Prager Wildsee (Hotel Lago di Braies) on my first trip to the dolomites, but they refused to take payment in any other way but wire transfer (which is a big fucking no no for international travel, at least for me), so I bailed on them and ended up at Ortisei and Hotel Gardena Grodnerhof, which is fucking phenomenal. I’ve stayed there twice now and Ortisei is beautiful. 

[VABuckeye 2472]

Thanks for the recommendation on Ortisei.  The hotel at Prager Wildsee requires three nights minimum and although beautiful I'm not sure it's a spot I want to do three days at.  We may stay in Cortina d-Amprezzo because it's more centrally located and we can daytrip from there easily.

I've decided to bag the Aosta Valley for this trip.  We're doing one mountain setting in the Dolomites and Aosta is all the way across northern Italy.  Right now the trip is shaping up as 1 night in Milan, 3 nights in the Dolomites, 2 nights in Venice, 4 nights in Vernona/Bologna, possibly 2 nights in Cinque Terre and then finish up in Piedmonte near Alba.  I need to get my vineyard fix and there's no better place in the world than Piedmonte for that.  So, it appears we'll be traveling around a bit more than I'd like so we may pare the sites down a bit.  That said, none of this is travel over great distances and the trains are fast.

Edited March 12, 2023 by VABuckeye

[VABuckeye 2472]

Here's where we are now.

9/15 Milan, 9/16-9/18 Verona (daytrip to Burano and Murano), 9/18-9/21 Dolomites, 9/21-9/26 Bologna (with daytrips to Modena and Ferrara), 9/26-9/28 Cinque Terre (will just hang out in and explore one town, no hiking), 9/28-10/1 Piedmonte region (Serralunga), 10/1 Milan hotel for 10/2 flight home.

Two days to have a car and explore the Dolomites.  We've done Venice before so we'll stay in Verona to check it out and train to Venice for the Murano and Burano daytrip.  Bologna we'll take a little time to explore and daytrip without having to pack and travel for several days.  Cinque Terre we're interested in but don't feel like spending a ton of time there.  Piedmonte will  be at our favorite little agritourismo in the middle of the Barolo wine region.  Exploring and vineyards will be filling our days.

Thoughts are welcome.

[VABuckeye 2472]

Too late to edit.  We're staying in Treviso, not Verona.

[Mo Horn 8853]

1 hour ago, VABuckeye said:

Cinque Terre (will just hang out in and explore one town, no hiking)

There really isn't a lot to do in each town, unless you just want to lounge on a beach, and then you'll want to stay in Monterroso al Mare. There is a train that runs between the towns. Really easy and fast, so you don't need to hike. You will do yourself a huge disservice if you only see one town. They're all unique. Make a reservation for dinner at Tratorria dal Billy in Manorola, order the Taglierini Neri ai frutti di mare, and thank me later. The best seafood pasta dish I've had in my life. 

[VABuckeye 2472]

Thank you for the recommendation.  We will definitely take the train between at least some of the towns.  

[VABuckeye 2472]

And now I'm figuring out to get from Bologna to Cinque Terre.  It's not an easy one and looks like 4 hours on trains.

[po elvis 2076]

1 hour ago, Mo Horn said:

There really isn't a lot to do in each town, unless you just want to lounge on a beach, and then you'll want to stay in Monterroso al Mare. There is a train that runs between the towns. Really easy and fast, so you don't need to hike. You will do yourself a huge disservice if you only see one town. They're all unique. Make a reservation for dinner at Tratorria dal Billy in Manorola, order the Taglierini Neri ai frutti di mare, and thank me later. The best seafood pasta dish I've had in my life. 

Yeah we did Cinque Terra in one day. Took the train, got off at each town. Walked around for an hour or two at each town. It was enough for me. Glad we went. Don’t see going back. 

[rage-a-holic 4450]

34 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

And now I'm figuring out to get from Bologna to Cinque Terre.  It's not an easy one and looks like 4 hours on trains.

If you have spare time in Bologna, this is a really cool wine bar. The owner bent over backwards for me the last time I was there. He was so happy to have someone to practice English on. He has a ton of good wines and I had to force him to take my money a couple of times. We had dinner with some of his friends at the restaurant next door and we got the royal treatment, he knows everyone in Bologna.

https://goo.gl/maps/bTbyNra7sPqg8y2w8

 

[VABuckeye 2472]

Cinque Terre has been scratched.  I have zero desire to deal with cruise ship passengers.

Instead we are going to stay on one of my favorite piazzas at Greve in Chianti.  I'll also get to go to my favorite little vineyard in Tuscany so it's a win, win.  A horrific travel day is avoided and no cruise people.

Thanks rage.  We're doing five days in Bologna so I will be sure to go there and to give him your regards.

[Mo Horn 8853]

19 minutes ago, po elvis said:

Yeah we did Cinque Terra in one day. Took the train, got off at each town. Walked around for an hour or two at each town. It was enough for me. Glad we went. Don’t see going back. 

And we spent 3+ days and could have spent more. We did do hiking, but would have loved to explore beyond the 5 towns. 

[VABuckeye 2472]

I've done the Amalfi Coast so bagging Cinque Terre with the difficult travel from Bologna wasn't a tough decision.

[Biff Tannen 45710]

I loved cinque terre in hindsight, but I do think you need to spend minimum 2 nights there, if not 3. That said, your trip without it will be perfectly fine. 
 

Why are you not driving the whole time?  Aside from Milan, seems like you aren’t hitting anywhere that would be problematic driving. 

[VABuckeye 2472]

We will be driving a lot.  In Bologna we may do daytrips to Modena and Ferrara and get a driver or I may rent a car there.  In the Dolomites, Tuscany and Piedmonte we'll have a car for sure.  

[Reynolds Woodcock 4798]

19 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

9/28-10/1 Piedmonte region (Serralunga)

I had a great little lunch on the terrace of Cascina Schiavenza a few years ago in Serralunga. We stayed in Monforte. Love that entire area.

[BHMCruiser 1814]

Okay, so crazy idea and I need some input. 

I lived in Italy for a semester when I was in college circa 1997, predominantly in Rome, but we pretty much went from Naples area to Florence and everywhere in between (I was a Classical Archaeology major, so we went anywhere there were ruins, but mixed in some Florence because it was Florence). Then I took my wife to Sorrento for our honeymoon in 2004. 

Anyway, I would like to take my family to Italy maybe spring break of next year. I was thinking arrive on Sunday in Rome, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday in Rome, Thursday train to Venice for half a day and travel to Florence, Friday in Florence, fly out of closest airport Sunday (Milan? Pisa?). I don't love Florence but think a day and overnight there would be good for the kids. In Rome I was thinking of Hotel Quirinale because of its convenient location and its being nice enough for the family to enjoy. 

Is this totally nuts? I don't want to stay overnight in Venice, but think the kids should see it. I don't want to spend too much time in Florence. I figure I'm going to have to fly out of Milan or Pisa and don't really care that much about time spent in either location.

I'd hate to shorten Rome to two days. I think that would be tough. 

Any thoughts? 

I completely recognize this will be a whirlwind and does not do any of the places we are going justice, but that's life with kids.

[VABuckeye 2472]

I'd skip Venice before I'd train in and out in one day.  Useless waste of the little time you have there IMO.  The whole day is traveling.

On time spent I think you're overdoing Rome and underdoing Firenze but if you skip Venice the split between the two cities seems fine.

[Biff Tannen 45710]

4 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

I'd skip Venice before I'd train in and out in one day.  Useless waste of the little time you have there IMO.  The whole day is traveling.

On time spent I think you're overdoing Rome and underdoing Firenze but if you skip Venice the split between the two cities seems fine.

This

[Mo Horn 8853]

Why can't you fly out of Florence? Not the right airline, or connections? It's an international Airport. 

[BHMCruiser 1814]

1 hour ago, Mo Horn said:

Why can't you fly out of Florence? Not the right airline, or connections? It's an international Airport. 

Connections are kind of a nightmare but I'm not ruling it out. This is very tentative planning. 

I really am not a big Florence guy but I hear you. I think my kids would prefer a day trip to Tivoli over an extra day in Florence but thank you. 

1 hour ago, VABuckeye said:

I'd skip Venice before I'd train in and out in one day.  Useless waste of the little time you have there IMO.  The whole day is traveling.

On time spent I think you're overdoing Rome and underdoing Firenze but if you skip Venice the split between the two cities seems fine.

Got it. Thank you. 

[VABuckeye 2472]

Car rentals.  We'll be renting for the Dolomites, Tuscany and Piedmonte.  I thought about renting for 5 days in Bologna but the rate is so high that it exceeds the cost of the other rentals combined by 300 euro.  I can use mydaytrip.com and have a private driver to go to Modena and Ferrara on separate days for 500 euro less than a Bologna car rental.  Plus I won't have the hassle of parking and paying for parking in a city.  Weird.  We found the same in Spain.  It was cheaper to be chauffeured than to rent.

[Mo Horn 8853]

52 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

Car rentals.  We'll be renting for the Dolomites, Tuscany and Piedmonte.  I thought about renting for 5 days in Bologna but the rate is so high that it exceeds the cost of the other rentals combined by 300 euro.  I can use mydaytrip.com and have a private driver to go to Modena and Ferrara on separate days for 500 euro less than a Bologna car rental.  Plus I won't have the hassle of parking and paying for parking in a city.  Weird.  We found the same in Spain.  It was cheaper to be chauffeured than to rent.

Why not just take the train?

[VABuckeye 2472]

We are taking the train between cities.  We'll be in Bologna for 5 days.  We could do a train to Ferrara but in Modena we want to do the balsamic vinegar tour and visit the Ferrari museum.  I'l have to check to see what distances are involved when we get to Modena and if we can just taxi if needed to sites.

 

And thank you for the train suggestion!  It's usually the first thing I think of.  Doh!

Edited March 15, 2023 by VABuckeye

[Tonesky 948]

On 3/15/2023 at 7:32 AM, VABuckeye said:

In Bologna we may do daytrips to Modena and Ferrara and get a driver or I may rent a car there. 

Strong Modena recommendation for morning tour at Acetaia di Giorgio, followed by lunch at Trattoria Ermes.

Reservation recommended for Acetaia di Giorgio.  Ermes is lunch only and takes no reservations.  Arrive early.

[956 Worldwide 34746]

Subscribed. Just booked Amalfi for five nights in April. One day we have booked for Pompeii and another to take the ferry to Capri to explore/do the Blue Grotto. 
 

Staying in Amalfi and planning to book an airport transfer, it’s about 150 EUR to the hotel. What other suggestions should we do— family of four with kids 9-11.  I figure one day at least to explore Amalfi itself. 

[VABuckeye 2472]

If you want to get away from the crowd on Capri take the bus up to Anacapri.  It’s very nice.  You can also take a cable car to the top of the mountain and hike down.  Easy hike. 

[HornPhD 1368]

My oldest niece is getting married this summer in Castellammare di Stabia (near Pompei). Any recommendations for that area? 

[BHMCruiser 1814]

On 3/18/2023 at 4:05 PM, VABuckeye said:

If you want to get away from the crowd on Capri take the bus up to Anacapri.  It’s very nice.  You can also take a cable car to the top of the mountain and hike down.  Easy hike. 

Or you can bust ass all the way up to Tiberius' Villa for amazing views but it's a slog.

[McCroskey 1505]

My oldest niece is getting married this summer in Castellammare di Stabia (near Pompei). Any recommendations for that area? 

Must, must, must, IMO is a tasting/tour/lunch at the Cantina del Vesuvio winery. Make a reservation.

It’s about 10 mins from Pompeii, highly recommend doing this if you are in the area. Great food, great wine, great views.

[Gil Bang 25997]

On 3/18/2023 at 2:05 PM, VABuckeye said:

If you want to get away from the crowd on Capri take the bus up to Anacapri.  It’s very nice.  You can also take a cable car to the top of the mountain and hike down.  Easy hike. 

I HIGHLY recommend this. 
 
And, I took the cable car (more like a ski lift) to the top, and when I got there, the only beer they had was fucking Corona. 

Edited March 21, 2023 by Gil Bang

[Gil Bang 25997]

On 3/18/2023 at 11:12 AM, 956 Worldwide said:

Subscribed. Just booked Amalfi for five nights in April. One day we have booked for Pompeii and another to take the ferry to Capri to explore/do the Blue Grotto. 
 

Staying in Amalfi and planning to book an airport transfer, it’s about 150 EUR to the hotel. What other suggestions should we do— family of four with kids 9-11.  I figure one day at least to explore Amalfi itself. 

I found the road to Amalfi to be terrifying.   

We took a bus to Amalfi, I said never again, and we took a ferry back to the airport.  

[texasdago 7577]

On 3/15/2023 at 5:25 PM, VABuckeye said:

We are taking the train between cities.  We'll be in Bologna for 5 days.  We could do a train to Ferrara but in Modena we want to do the balsamic vinegar tour and visit the Ferrari museum.  I'l have to check to see what distances are involved when we get to Modena and if we can just taxi if needed to sites.

 

And thank you for the train suggestion!  It's usually the first thing I think of.  Doh!

I never think of the train because we like exploring smaller towns, trattorie, wineries, etc.  Really gives you freedom but yes rental rates suck now.  If you drive stick, it can save you a lot or money.

The countryside between/around Bologna and Modena is exceptional.  Personal recommendations include the Collezione Umberto Panini and the various Lambrusco wineries near Castelvetro di Modena and Sorbara.  Also, exceptional food at regular trattorie and osterie.  Don't waste your time with fine dining when the local countryside restaurants are exceptional in their own right.

One note, we've never made a single reservation to a winery before but being a native speaker maybe we just get away with it.

Edited March 21, 2023 by texasdago

[VABuckeye 2472]

I was hoping you’d chime in.  It looks like day trips from Bologna to Modena and to Verona.  We may add a third to Parma or Padua.  Probably Parma.  

The vineyards in Tuscany and Piemonte are the ones I’ve found you need a res for.  

[texasdago 7577]

Speaking of Piemonte, ate this a few nights ago in Claviere, a small ski town on the French border.  It's called Crudo Piemontese and, yes, it is all raw meat... (But was pretty darned good)

Yes, even the poop emoji sausage 

 

Edited March 21, 2023 by texasdago

[VABuckeye 2472]

I was thinking about doing the Aosta Valley but it felt too ambitious.  If it was a three week trip I'd have added that.