The Italy Thread

[Planet Houston 4918]

On 6/17/2024 at 6:43 AM, Planet Houston said:

The wife and I are taking an anniversary trip to Amalfi next week. Haven’t planned shit other than the hotels. Just the way I like it. 

If anyone has any can’t misses, please let me know. We are in Sorrento for 3 nights and Amalfi for 3 nights. 

This part of the world is unreal, and we are so glad we have made this trip. Thanks for the recs. More fulsome review to come when we get back and can reflect on the whole thing, but in the meantime I’ll leave y’all with one of the best signs at a restaurant I’ve seen. This was at our favorite tiny spot in the old part of Sorrento that we returned to for a second meal:

We are now staying outside Amalfi and will see a bunch of the other towns this afternoon and tomorrow. We will likely do the Path of the Gods tomorrow. 

🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹

[Vertuzzi 1303]

5 hours ago, Planet Houston said:

This part of the world is unreal, and we are so glad we have made this trip. Thanks for the recs. More fulsome review to come when we get back and can reflect on the whole thing, but in the meantime I’ll leave y’all with one of the best signs at a restaurant I’ve seen. This was at our favorite tiny spot in the old part of Sorrento that we returned to for a second meal:

We are now staying outside Amalfi and will see a bunch of the other towns this afternoon and tomorrow. We will likely do the Path of the Gods tomorrow. 

🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹

Last time I was in Amalfi, I ate two Amalfi lemons whole, drank tons of limoncello, and ate a handful of lemon candies. My teeth were sensitive for the next week. Can’t wait to go back to do it again!

[Ted Lange 15924]

That Lemon Delight dessert in Sorrento is fantastic too.

[VABuckeye 2472]

There's a little restaurant in San Sano in Tuscany.  They make a lemon sorbet and serve it in 1/2 of a frozen lemon skin.  I swear it's the single best lemon dessert I've ever had and it is so simple.  The lemons there are HUGE.

Edited June 25 by VABuckeye

[MAUFRAIS 6557]

Yeah I had that in Positano and it was great.

I also had a Lemon Chill in the upper deck of Memorial Stadium in 1992 that was pretty good.

[Planet Houston 4918]

19 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

 The lemons there are HUGE.

 

We got tired of the ultra-sweetness of limoncello pretty quickly, but this lemon ravioli was one of the better pasta dishes I’ve had:

[PenelopeWitherspoon 18402]

The lemons in the amalfi coast are absolutely amazing.  Definitely do not sleep on wine from Campania.  Some absolutely fantastic offerings.  Love that you can get outstanding wine for 10-12 a bottle, and that is on the expensive side.  The local, rotgut stuff, they serve with peaches inside.  It is outstanding.  Love that part of Italy.

[texasdago 7389]

Through the first third of our trip... sitting on a balcony now listening to the cicadas.  The beach yesterday (below) was quiet and we opted to eat on our terrace for dinner instead of going out.  In six days, we've heard two Americans here.  I really want this area to stay a secret but trust me the experience in these kinds of towns in Italy is something else. Most we've spent on a meal as a family of four has been 120 Euros and it was a random stop that turned out to be fine dining. Will share more later.

As for driving, still love it but we took a drive into a national park for a little hike and lunch.  Temperatures from the sea to the forest were about 15° cooler.  I've driven all kinds of windy roads in Italy but I almost never drove a straight stretch of road for 2 1/2 hours.  Wish I'd had an Alfa.  One section was the tightest steep road I'd ever seen outside of a Greek island.  Another stretch was almost cow pinball.  White knuckle driving.

[texasdago 7389]

Boat only access beaches like this with 5-6 people around... love it!

[El Tri 398]

On 6/27/2024 at 1:06 AM, texasdago said:

Through the first third of our trip... sitting on a balcony now listening to the cicadas.  The beach yesterday (below) was quiet and we opted to eat on our terrace for dinner instead of going out.  In six days, we've heard two Americans here.  I really want this area to stay a secret but trust me the experience in these kinds of towns in Italy is something else. Most we've spent on a meal as a family of four has been 120 Euros and it was a random stop that turned out to be fine dining. Will share more later.

As for driving, still love it but we took a drive into a national park for a little hike and lunch.  Temperatures from the sea to the forest were about 15° cooler.  I've driven all kinds of windy roads in Italy but I almost never drove a straight stretch of road for 2 1/2 hours.  Wish I'd had an Alfa.  One section was the tightest steep road I'd ever seen outside of a Greek island.  Another stretch was almost cow pinball.  White knuckle driving.

we'll be in florence and rome from 7/6-7/15, looking for some ideas for day trips. where is this place and can we do a day trip from florence or rome?

[Ted Lange 15924]

Orvieto is cool little walled hilltop town and an easy day trip from Rome.  1:15 min train ride from Rome, then you get dropped off right next to the Funicolare that you ride to the top of the hill.   There is a great Duomo, underground tunnels, a museum, several churches, and great views of the surrounding area.   There are lots of solid food options, I visited in July 7ish years ago and it wasn't crowded at all.   There are tons of travel videos about it now on YouTube.

 

 

 

It is known for white wine, which when it is 90+ degrees outside is nice.  

[Mo Horn 8696]

3 hours ago, El Tri said:

we'll be in florence and rome from 7/6-7/15, looking for some ideas for day trips. where is this place and can we do a day trip from florence or rome?

Sienna or any of the hill towns in the area would be my suggestion

[po elvis 2070]

45 minutes ago, Ted Lange said:

Orvieto is cool little walled hilltop town and an easy day trip from Rome.  1:15 min train ride from Rome, then you get dropped off right next to the Funicolare that you ride to the top of the hill.   There is a great Duomo, underground tunnels, a museum, several churches, and great views of the surrounding area.   There are lots of solid food options, I visited in July 7ish years ago and it wasn't crowded at all.   There are tons of travel videos about it now on YouTube.

 

 

 

It is known for white wine, which when it is 90+ degrees outside is nice.  

We did a month in Italy. Orvieto was one of my favorite places we went. We only stayed there 1 night. We were in the area to check out Civita di Bagnoregio, a little hill town accessible only by a walking bridge (or scooter). We would like to go back to Orvieto along with Lucca. We only spent a few hours in Lucca, getting off a train going towards Cinque Terra. It was a cool town. IMO both places are better than Siena. 

[Biff Tannen 45013]

2 hours ago, po elvis said:

We did a month in Italy. Orvieto was one of my favorite places we went. We only stayed there 1 night. We were in the area to check out Civita di Bagnoregio, a little hill town accessible only by a walking bridge (or scooter). We would like to go back to Orvieto along with Lucca. We only spent a few hours in Lucca, getting off a train going towards Cinque Terra. It was a cool town. IMO both places are better than Siena. 

Agree with all of this except being better than Siena.  They are all great.  The piazza in Siena is worth it by itself, imo.  But c'mon, we are splitting hairs here.

[texasdago 7389]

From Rome:

Tivoli 

Viterbo

Cerveteri 

Orvieto 

Spoleto 

Castel Gandolfo 

Lago Bracciano 

Lago di Bolsena 

 

Also, I saw a comment someone made about not sleeping in wines from Campania.  To be honest, don't sleep on wines from any region.  Each area has lots of great wines, grapes and wineries that may be completely unknown outside of Italy.  We are visiting a winery today and one of the grapes used in that particular valley is a white grape called Famoso.  This winery also makes exceptional reds.  Had a nice refreshing Pagadebit last night which is another white grape from the area.  Whether you are in Puglia, Veneto, Basilicata or whatever, lots of great wines at inexpensive prices.  Don't get roped in my the Americanized prices in Tuscany.

[texasdago 7389]

I noticed Conad has carta with dog inserts

(Not my dog) 

[field 214]

14 hours ago, Biff Tannen said:

Agree with all of this except being better than Siena.  They are all great.  The piazza in Siena is worth it by itself, imo.  But c'mon, we are splitting hairs here.

Loved Siena.  We were there when the Tartuca (tortoise) contrade was doing its parade around the city center and toured the Civetta (little owl) contrada's museum.  I find the whole contrada thing strangely fascinating.  If you want a good laugh, check out the video of the Palio race from last August.  So uniquely Siena.

August 2023 Palio     

[Biff Tannen 45013]

7 hours ago, texasdago said:

Also, I saw a comment someone made about not sleeping in wines from Campania.  To be honest, don't sleep on wines from any region.  Each area has lots of great wines, grapes and wineries that may be completely unknown outside of Italy.  We are visiting a winery today and one of the grapes used in that particular valley is a white grape called Famoso.  This winery also makes exceptional reds.  Had a nice refreshing Pagadebit last night which is another white grape from the area.  Whether you are in Puglia, Veneto, Basilicata or whatever, lots of great wines at inexpensive prices.  Don't get roped in my the Americanized prices in Tuscany.

One of my favorite memories is from a little cafe in Bellagio where a CARAFE of the house red was 8 Euros.  In America that would run like $40.

[Mo Horn 8696]

3 minutes ago, Biff Tannen said:

One of my favorite memories is from a little cafe in Bellagio where a CARAFE of the house red was 8 Euros.  In America that would run like $40.

When we were in Italy a few years back, more times than not we just had the house wine. Always great and we never paid more than 10 euros. Europe knows how to do it. 

[texasdago 7389]

On 6/29/2024 at 9:48 AM, Mo Horn said:

When we were in Italy a few years back, more times than not we just had the house wine. Always great and we never paid more than 10 euros. Europe knows how to do it. 

Yup... visited two exceptional wineries in Morro d'Alba yesterday... any area in the Lacrima di Morro d'Alba DOC and the Castelli di Jesi DOC.  Great wines... most bottles 13-14 Euro and under.  The most expensive we bought was 23 and it was a very special vintage of a Lacrima made as an appassimento.  Very time consuming, aged three years.

Lacrima is such a particular grape that for the most part, you will barely see any oak in sight... almost all aging done in steel or concrete.

Le Marche are exceptional... so many great places.  Exceptional food.  People are great, prices reasonable.  Lots of amazing towns and beautiful drives.

Edited July 2 by texasdago

[Scary Stranger 1711]

On 6/16/2024 at 4:51 AM, Dignan said:

 our Airbnb is a 6 min walk to St Mark's Square which is cool,

Link?

[VABuckeye 2472]

Vino Della casa Rosso is always the best choice in Italy and particularly so in a little restaurant in a small town. 

[Gil Bang 25551]

On 6/16/2024 at 9:43 PM, Planet Houston said:

The wife and I are taking an anniversary trip to Amalfi next week. Haven’t planned shit other than the hotels. Just the way I like it. 

If anyone has any can’t misses, please let me know. We are in Sorrento for 3 nights and Amalfi for 3 nights. 

bring ice for your knees.  you will climb 198,000 steps

[Gil Bang 25551]

On 6/29/2024 at 12:07 AM, texasdago said:

I noticed Conad has carta with dog inserts

(Not my dog) 

 

[texasdago 7389]

IYKYK

 

[Scary Stranger 1711]

Wife and I decided to go to Northern Italy next June for our 20th.  Been to Italy numerous times but further north than Como.  Going to fly into Venice (probably 2 days there) and then stay at 2-3 place for 2/3 nights each. One of those might be Lake Garda at the end. Somewhere around 10-12 days total. From what I've seen so far, I want to hike Seceda and Tres Cima for sure.  Super early stages of planning but would love some recommendations for towns to stay/visit, place for food, etc.  I like the idea of the fancy hotel that was posted back up thread but location will dictate.  Driven in Italy before so planning on doing so again.  Whatcha got?

[Biff Tannen 45013]

4 minutes ago, Scary Stranger said:

Wife and I decided to go to Northern Italy next June for our 20th.  Been to Italy numerous times but further north than Como.  Going to fly into Venice (probably 2 days there) and then stay at 2-3 place for 2/3 nights each. One of those might be Lake Garda at the end. Somewhere around 10-12 days total. From what I've seen so far, I want to hike Seceda and Tres Cima for sure.  Super early stages of planning but would love some recommendations for towns to stay/visit, place for food, etc.  I like the idea of the fancy hotel that was posted back up thread but location will dictate.  Driven in Italy before so planning on doing so again.  Whatcha got?

Ortisei is my rec for the Dolomites, but I’m sure there are a dozen others. The hotel you might be referencing is the Gardena Grodnerhof. 
 

https://www.gardena.it/en/

 

Edited July 6 by Biff Tannen

[Dignan 356]

On 7/2/2024 at 6:47 PM, Scary Stranger said:

Link?

Sorry, just saw this!

Airbnb in Venice we used

[texasdago 7389]

Back from Italy... much to share after 20 days.  Tired though, so tired.  Averaged about 18,000 steps a day yet still managed to drive a ton, too.  

[Scary Stranger 1711]

Back from Italy... much to share after 20 days.  Tired though, so tired.  Averaged about 18,000 steps a day yet still managed to drive a ton, too.  

[texasdago 7389]

I know I know.  I need to write some thoughts.  But I'll stick with my usual idea... go where not everyone else is going.  Rent a car, explore, pay less, eat well and enjoy yourself.  

Until I post more, here is a picture of one of my favorite beaches from the trip... Vignanotica on the Gargano peninsula.  Weather that day was meh but the cliff side location was beautiful. 

Also, had a chance to see the first leg of the Tour de France from the road up to Passo Barbotto in Mercato Saraceno.  Was a very cool experience!  Lots of tourists in town for the Tour.

[elfenix 34075]

Heard over the weekend that venetian officials were disappointed that while the day-tourist fee raised a bunch of money, it did nothing to dent the number of tourists. I can't imagine anyone planning their vacation, doing their budget, and saying to their SO, you know, I just don't think we can make this work, that extra 10€ is going to break us"

Edited July 16 by elfenix
Thanks autocorrect

[texasdago 7389]

6 minutes ago, elfenix said:

Heard over the weekend that venetian officials were disappointed that while the day-tourist fee raised a bunch of money, it did nothing to deny the number of tourists. I can't imagine anyone planning their vacation, doing their budget, and saying to their SO, you know, I just don't think we can make this work, that extra 10€ is going to break us"

Limit the number of day trippers.  Overnight guests can stay.  Coming for the day?  Only so many get in.

[texasdago 7389]

I didn't take many pictures of this specific meal but I wanted to share with you that not going to the touristy places yields big dividends... 

(this was what they brought us at the end... we bought the tiramisu' but the rest in the picture was complimentary)

Anyway, we went to an agriturismo in the countryside for a Sunday afternoon lunch... maybe 20 minutes from our apartment. 

In 8 we ordered...

1 Tagliere (meat plate)

8 primi (pasta)

2 secondi (mixed grilled meats)

2 contorni (sides)

5 liter bottles of water

1 1/2 liters of local wine

1 dessert

4 coffees

4 soft drinks

8 coperti (the cover charge you see at Italian restaurants - totally standard)

177 Euro total.  TOTAL!

Talked to one of the owners while there and she was excited we were visiting from Texas.  She left and came back and gave us some of their peach preserves as a gift to bring home.

This was the view from the parking lot... 

[Post Oak 20092]

Good livin 

[texasdago 7389]

28 minutes ago, Post Oak said:

Good livin 

That was a great afternoon...

We went to a winery outside of Castel Bolognese on two different occasions... we'd been there twice in 2022.  The food... so good!?  Great local wine, price reasonable... very chill.  Seriously... I have great memories of our trips but sometimes the slow meals are the best ones.

[Chopper 16342]

Here's an under-the-radar idea for your next trip to Florence.

Edited July 17 by Chopper

[VABuckeye 2472]

On 7/16/2024 at 11:09 AM, texasdago said:

That was a great afternoon...

We went to a winery outside of Castel Bolognese on two different occasions... we'd been there twice in 2022.  The food... so good!?  Great local wine, price reasonable... very chill.  Seriously... I have great memories of our trips but sometimes the slow meals are the best ones.

That ravioli with a simple butter and sage sauce is the bomb.  The meat sauce pictured is also unbelievable.  I don’t thank I’ll ever eat a bolognese again that isn’t Bologna style.  

[texasdago 7389]

10 hours ago, VABuckeye said:

That ravioli with a simple butter and sage sauce is the bomb.  The meat sauce pictured is also unbelievable.  I don’t thank I’ll ever eat a bolognese again that isn’t Bologna style.  

Half of my oldest son's meals were tagliatelle al ragu'.  If it was on the menu, he would order it.  Often in Romagna they'll make the ragu' with peas and it is amazing!

[VABuckeye 2472]

When I sw the photos I knew what regionthey were from.  😀

[texasdago 7389]

25 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

When I sw the photos I knew what regionthey were from.  😀

Best I ever had were from Delinda outside of Rimini.

Look at these wine prices from 2018

[VABuckeye 2472]

Yeah, when we go we order the table wine at the little town restaurants and it's like 8 euro a bottle.  God, I love Italy.

I dream of wild boar ragu with pici pasta.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 18402]

Italy has become my Spring trip for 2025.  The only things I know is that I am going to do Emilia Romagna and Venice, and that we are going to Imola on May 16-18.  That is all I have.

[Scary Stranger 1711]

2 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Italy has become my Spring trip for 2025.  The only things I know is that I am going to do Emilia Romagna and Venice, and that we are going to Imola on May 16-18.  That is all I have.

Would love to see any food research you do for Venice as I am going to take the wife there in early June 25.

[Billy Pilgrim 1870]

Just got back from 18 days in Italy and Greece. Ended the trip in Capri and Amalfi. Holy shit it was hot and humid. Beautiful scenery and gorgeous beaches/water. Didn’t realize it was going to be so expensive to get around (taxis were €50 one way for the 1.2 mile trip from our villa into Marina Grande and no Uber option). Glad we went and had a great time, just know you have to factor that expense in before you go.

Edited July 20 by Billy Pilgrim

[PenelopeWitherspoon 18402]

On 7/19/2024 at 12:30 PM, Scary Stranger said:

Would love to see any food research you do for Venice as I am going to take the wife there in early June 25.

Just now starting.  Still do not even have dates fully nailed down just yet.  But starting to do my maps and the research.  Honestly, I know it probably sounds lame, but Pinterest is something I use to help store articles and information.  Then I can reference them whenever I want.

 

[Scary Stranger 1711]

We're going while our kids are in camp for 2 weeks so the dates were decided for us.  We're also using AA miles for those tickets are booked before they cost us more.  Here is the general itinerary I am working on.  This obviously doesn't include the hikes and sightseeing trip to lakes, etc. as I haven't gotten to planning those out.  Just want to secure locations at this point.

• Leave 6/2
• Land in Venice 6/3, 2 Nights in Venice
• 6/5 Pickup rental car and drive North.  Would like to stay at the hut by Tres Cima but it looks like snow the first week in June is fairly common so the roads/hiking trails could be closed.
• 2 nights at Gardena Grödnerhof 
• 2 Nights in VRBO -would welcome recommendations
• 3 Nights at Lake Garda - Looking for recommendations on which village and places to stay
• June 13 Drive back to VCE and Fly home.

[texasdago 7389]

18 hours ago, Scary Stranger said:

We're going while our kids are in camp for 2 weeks so the dates were decided for us.  We're also using AA miles for those tickets are booked before they cost us more.  Here is the general itinerary I am working on.  This obviously doesn't include the hikes and sightseeing trip to lakes, etc. as I haven't gotten to planning those out.  Just want to secure locations at this point.

• Leave 6/2
• Land in Venice 6/3, 2 Nights in Venice
• 6/5 Pickup rental car and drive North.  Would like to stay at the hut by Tres Cima but it looks like snow the first week in June is fairly common so the roads/hiking trails could be closed.
• 2 nights at Gardena Grödnerhof 
• 2 Nights in VRBO -would welcome recommendations
• 3 Nights at Lake Garda - Looking for recommendations on which village and places to stay
• June 13 Drive back to VCE and Fly home.

When you are in Val Gardena, there is a great walk in the Vallunga.  Lunch at Ciampac Hutte is a must.  Of course, I'm sure you'll go up to Seceda.  Absolutely beautiful.  Jimmi Hutte is good above Colfosco.   Rifugio Emilio Comici has been around forever... great location and I think there's a bike park there.  Anyway, you'll love it.  Selva is where I learned to ski.

On Lake Garda, either stay in Riva del Garda or, since you are without kids, https://www.hotelvaldisogno.com/

 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 18402]

Dates are starting to come together. Probably flying out on May 7 to 9. Still planning the first week to 10 days of the trip. Then will be at the Imola race May 16-18. Then Venice May 19 to 26 (Fly back on the 26). Staying at the St. Regis in Venice. Have asked for an upgrade to a canal view, terrace suite, so we shall see.

 

[52-80 18982]

On 6/29/2024 at 4:13 PM, field said:

Loved Siena.  We were there when the Tartuca (tortoise) contrade was doing its parade around the city center and toured the Civetta (little owl) contrada's museum.  I find the whole contrada thing strangely fascinating.  If you want a good laugh, check out the video of the Palio race from last August.  So uniquely Siena.

August 2023 Palio     

We’re team Nicchio, rivals of Tartuca.

One of the oldest, noble contradas, but haven’t won shit this century. 

Go scallops !