The Italy Thread

[texasdago 7753]

Man, one of my friends is running all over Italy right now and he is telling me all about how much he is paying for stuff... food, wine... as well as food quality.  I'm pretty surprised by what I'm hearing.  Like, where the f*** are y'all going?

Y'all - please.  I know you want to visit the monument or the city that everyone else has visited... "everyone has been to X so I need to go to X, too!"  Expand your horizons... fewer people, better food, better experiences, better prices.  

Yes, I speak Italian and feel comfortable hopping just about anywhere in Italy (no, I'm not driving in Napoli) but I swear, Italians are nice... especially when you are not one of thousands of Americans flooding their streets.  Like this sucks, y'all... (and mind you, I love Rome... my mom, aunts, uncles, cousins, brother... from Rome... I'm the smart one born in Bologna).  Not worth it.

[VABuckeye 2481]

Our preference is to eat at the only restaurant in the smallest town we can find.  You know the food is good because if not, the locals will shun it.  It's inexpensive, the table wine is like 8 euro a bottle, it's delicious and they don't care if you sit at the table for 3 plus hours.  In fact, they usually encourage it.

[texasdago 7753]

24 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

Our preference is to eat at the only restaurant in the smallest town we can find.  You know the food is good because if not, the locals will shun it.  It's inexpensive, the table wine is like 8 euro a bottle, it's delicious and they don't care if you sit at the table for 3 plus hours.  In fact, they usually encourage it.

...and sometimes you'll try to pay the check and wonder if anyone is still there

 

[Ted Lange 16353]

2 hours ago, texasdago said:

Man, one of my friends is running all over Italy right now and he is telling me all about how much he is paying for stuff... food, wine... as well as food quality.  I'm pretty surprised by what I'm hearing.  Like, where the f*** are y'all going?

Y'all - please.  I know you want to visit the monument or the city that everyone else has visited... "everyone has been to X so I need to go to X, too!"  Expand your horizons... fewer people, better food, better experiences, better prices.  

Yes, I speak Italian and feel comfortable hopping just about anywhere in Italy (no, I'm not driving in Napoli) but I swear, Italians are nice... especially when you are not one of thousands of Americans flooding their streets.  Like this sucks, y'all... (and mind you, I love Rome... my mom, aunts, uncles, cousins, brother... from Rome... I'm the smart one born in Bologna).  Not worth it.

 

I still love Rome, but our visit last summer we stayed away from the big monuments and mostly visited a few lesser visited things, and ate bad ass food.   We also went to Ischia which was awesome.

Heading back in a month, going to the north side for the first time, starting in Milan, short stay on Lake Iseo, Verona (with a side trip to Bolzano), and finishing in Bologna. Ive been to Bologna before and loved it.   Our normal day is sleep in a bit, grab a coffee see 1 maybe 2 sights/museums, and sit at cafes drinking wine and eating.   The eating/drinking and people watching and interacting with folks is what I enjoy the most.

[texasdago 7753]

5 minutes ago, Ted Lange said:

 

I still love Rome, but our visit last summer we stayed away from the big monuments and mostly visited a few lesser visited things, and ate bad ass food.   We also went to Ischia which was awesome.

Heading back in a month, going to the north side for the first time, starting in Milan, short stay on Lake Iseo, Verona (with a side trip to Bolzano), and finishing in Bologna. Ive been to Bologna before and loved it.   Our normal day is sleep in a bit, grab a coffee see 1 maybe 2 sights/museums, and sit at cafes drinking wine and eating.   The eating/drinking and people watching and interacting with folks is what I enjoy the most.

Good call.  Iseo is great.  We spent a week based in Sarnico and then putzed around that area.  It was a few years ago but I'm sure the basics are still the same... Monte Isola, Franciacorta, drives deeper into the mountains to Ponte di Legno.  Let me know if you need any ideas near Bologna.  Depending on how long you are there, you can take side trips to Dozza, Imola, Ferrara, etc.  May be host as balls.  If you're by the airport/Borgo Panigale on your last night, this is recommended...

https://g.co/kgs/M5UVPGs

Doesn't look like much but, trust me, it doesn't matter

Edited July 29 by texasdago

[Ted Lange 16353]

Will be in Bologna for 3 days, staying near the city center.   That restaurant looks exactly like the type of place we love frequenting.   Would love any recs, we will not have a car and will rely on public transit (which I love) fwiw.   Im not a huge car guy so the Ferarri stuff isn't that enticing.

We are planning on a day trip over to Venice.   Ive never been before and have always kind of had a negative feeling about it, but want to see and experience it.   Maybe we will love it and decide to go back for a longer stay next time.

[Biff Tannen 46061]

1 hour ago, Ted Lange said:

sit at cafes drinking wine and eating. 

This man knows how to do it.

[Ted Lange 16353]

 

[texasdago 7753]

4 hours ago, Ted Lange said:

Will be in Bologna for 3 days, staying near the city center.   That restaurant looks exactly like the type of place we love frequenting.   Would love any recs, we will not have a car and will rely on public transit (which I love) fwiw.   Im not a huge car guy so the Ferarri stuff isn't that enticing.

We are planning on a day trip over to Venice.   Ive never been before and have always kind of had a negative feeling about it, but want to see and experience it.   Maybe we will love it and decide to go back for a longer stay next time.

That restaurant is walking distance from the train station in Borgo Panigale.  Just check opening hours.  

 

Haven't been in a few years but Da Cesari in Bologna is good.  

 

We had friends who were based in Bologna and took the train out to Rimini.  If you go there, I can bury you with recommendations.

[Kringelbert Fishtybuns 945]

Any Minori or Maiori recs for dinner?  On the train to Salerno before hopping on a ferry.

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19279]

So, Spring trip is starting to come together.  Leaving on May 8, returning May 26. Doing Emilia Romagna, the Veneto, and Venice.

As of now, staying in Ferrara from May 9 to May 15. Then somewhere with easy access to Imola (most likely Bologna or Ravenna) from May 16-19, then the St. Regis in Venice from May 19-May 26.

Currently running down research for the following:

Padua

Ferrara

Parma

Verona

Modena

Bologna

Ravenna

and of course, Venice.

Would love to hear experiences from others.  

[VABuckeye 2481]

11 minutes ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Parma

Verona

Modena

Bologna

Yes.  Yes.  Yes.  Yes.

 

One of the top restaurants in the world is in Modena.  It was #1 for a while.  There's a sister restaurant that is less expensive, easier to get into and apparently just as delicious.

Edited August 12 by VABuckeye

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19279]

4 minutes ago, VABuckeye said:

Yes.  Yes.  Yes.  Yes.

 

One of the top restaurants in the world is in Modena.  It was #1 for a while.  There's a sister restaurant that is less expensive, easier to get into and apparently just as delicious.

Osteria Francescana is on my list if I can get a res. Well aware of that. I need to do research on his other places in the region.  I know he has a hotel (a friend stayed there in 2022 or 2023 and raved about it). I want food tours, must dos, etc... I decided to stay in Ferrara as it is much more central to all the locations, and I hate moving around.  Having three different bases in one trip isn't ideal for me, as I feel that wastes a lot of time packing and unpacking.

[texasdago 7753]

Everyone talks about the top restaurants in Italy... Michelin stars... yadda yadda.  Visit countryside trattorie and osterie... the places were local workers go enjoy the daily menu.  That's the food you want to enjoy in Emilia Romagna.  Some will argue with me... that's 99.9% what we do in Italy.  A few randoms... 

Within shouting distance of Imola...

https://en.aziendalacasetta.it/ristorante

https://relaismevigo.it/en/restaurant/

Also, go to Dozza to visit the regional enoteca and walk around the town

Bar in Imola - https://www.instagram.com/bar_ai_giardini_imola/

If you're passing Santa Croce

Near Santa Croce - https://trattoriasantacroce.it/

Outside Bologna... https://www.tasteatlas.com/osteriadalnonno

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19279]

1 hour ago, texasdago said:

Everyone talks about the top restaurants in Italy... Michelin stars... yadda yadda.  Visit countryside trattorie and osterie... the places were local workers go enjoy the daily menu.  That's the food you want to enjoy in Emilia Romagna.  Some will argue with me... that's 99.9% what we do in Italy.  A few randoms... 

Within shouting distance of Imola...

https://en.aziendalacasetta.it/ristorante

https://relaismevigo.it/en/restaurant/

Also, go to Dozza to visit the regional enoteca and walk around the town

Bar in Imola - https://www.instagram.com/bar_ai_giardini_imola/

If you're passing Santa Croce

Near Santa Croce - https://trattoriasantacroce.it/

Outside Bologna... https://www.tasteatlas.com/osteriadalnonno

I am just starting to pull the map together.  I will spending a lot of time just wandering around.  Really looking forward to this trip. Have not really planned a big trip in a while (have been on big trips where things were planned for me more so recently), so looking forward to planning this one out.  The research is a lot of the fun.

[Biff Tannen 46061]

2 hours ago, texasdago said:

Everyone talks about the top restaurants in Italy... Michelin stars... yadda yadda.  Visit countryside trattorie and osterie... the places were local workers go enjoy the daily menu.  That's the food you want to enjoy in Emilia Romagna.  Some will argue with me... that's 99.9% what we do in Italy.

You really can’t go wrong either way. But yes, some of my more memorable meals have been in little nothing towns in little nothing restaurants. 

[Tonesky 1042]

20 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Modena

Ravenna

Modena: Acetaia di Giorgio is a small artisanal Balsamic producer with a terrific tour and tasting.  It is well located to follow with highly recommended lunch at Trattoria Ermes.

Ravenna: The Byzantine mosaics are spectacular.  Allow a few hours to visit the 4-5 primary sites, which are clustered fairly close together.

Edited August 13 by Tonesky

[texasdago 7753]

9 hours ago, Tonesky said:

Modena: Acetaia di Giorgio is a small artisanal Balsamic producer with a terrific tour and tasting.  It is well located to follow with highly recommended lunch at Trattoria Ermes.

Ravenna: The Byzantine mosaics are spectacular.  Allow a few hours to visit the 4-5 primary sites, which are clustered fairly close together.

Everyone who goes to Ravenna says nothing but great things...

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19279]

I have wanted to visit Ravenna since I was in college when I took an Architecture as Art class. 

[Mr. Drummond 2241]

Leaving next week for 2 weeks.   Rome/positano/capri/Bellagio/zurich

have plenty of notes on where to eat etc.    But my question, specifically for Rome, we will be walking all over the place, but if tired of walking, or going somewhere in the evening a little nicer, what is the best way to get a ride.    Taxi?  uber?  Is there an app that works in rome well?    TIA.

[Gil Bang 26176]

the "Rome 2 Rio" app is fantastic for getting around anywhere. 

[Biff Tannen 46061]

53 minutes ago, Mr. Drummond said:

Leaving next week for 2 weeks.   Rome/positano/capri/Bellagio/zurich

Nice itinerary 

[VABuckeye 2481]

4 hours ago, Mr. Drummond said:

Leaving next week for 2 weeks.   Rome/positano/capri/Bellagio/zurich

have plenty of notes on where to eat etc.    But my question, specifically for Rome, we will be walking all over the place, but if tired of walking, or going somewhere in the evening a little nicer, what is the best way to get a ride.    Taxi?  uber?  Is there an app that works in rome well?    TIA.

There's a cheap bus that's ride on, get off, ride on.  We did it for the sites and it was great.

[Born to Run 6598]

Decided to do a last minute wedding in Florence next weekend. What asshole books a wedding for our most triumphant trip to Ann Arbor?

8 days ; rome and florence.

Any tips for beach / boat trip out of Rome? We really wanted a couple days in Amalfi; but I travel enough to know 3 areas in 7-8 days plus wedding is too much so we cut out Naples/Pompeii Amalfi. But would still like a chill beach or boat day out of Rome or a reasonable day trip.

 

Love this thread ; so much information. I've already done Rome and Florence and both would be my last choices  vs just about any other región in Italy; but its my wifes first time so need to play the hits. It will still be amazing.

[Mo Horn 8933]

8 hours ago, Born to Run said:

Decided to do a last minute wedding in Florence next weekend. What asshole books a wedding for our most triumphant trip to Ann Arbor?

8 days ; rome and florence.

Any tips for beach / boat trip out of Rome? We really wanted a couple days in Amalfi; but I travel enough to know 3 areas in 7-8 days plus wedding is too much so we cut out Naples/Pompeii Amalfi. But would still like a chill beach or boat day out of Rome or a reasonable day trip.

 

Love this thread ; so much information. I've already done Rome and Florence and both would be my last choices  vs just about any other región in Italy; but its my wifes first time so need to play the hits. It will still be amazing.

I'm very biased, but the Cinque Terre is one of the most gorgeous places I've been and is just a 2 1/2 hour drive from Florence. Can do either beach or boat. Monterosso al Mare is the best beach, and allows cars. Take a boat that tours all 5 towns. 

[Gil Bang 26176]

12 hours ago, Born to Run said:

Decided to do a last minute wedding in Florence next weekend. What asshole books a wedding for our most triumphant trip to Ann Arbor?

8 days ; rome and florence.

Any tips for beach / boat trip out of Rome? We really wanted a couple days in Amalfi; but I travel enough to know 3 areas in 7-8 days plus wedding is too much so we cut out Naples/Pompeii Amalfi. But would still like a chill beach or boat day out of Rome or a reasonable day trip.

 

Love this thread ; so much information. I've already done Rome and Florence and both would be my last choices  vs just about any other región in Italy; but its my wifes first time so need to play the hits. It will still be amazing.

capri

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19279]

If I were going to add 3-4 nights on the front end of my trip to try and stay in the Verona/Lake Garda area, where exactly should I stay for those days.  This is in early May 2025.

 

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19279]

Meh, I think I am going to stick to my current plan.  

[Biff Tannen 46061]

On 9/3/2024 at 2:03 PM, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

If I were going to add 3-4 nights on the front end of my trip to try and stay in the Verona/Lake Garda area, where exactly should I stay for those days.  This is in early May 2025.

 

I would do 2 nights in Verona and 2 at Lake Garda.  There are some great hotels at either end of the lake.  

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19279]

50 minutes ago, Biff Tannen said:

I would do 2 nights in Verona and 2 at Lake Garda.  There are some great hotels at either end of the lake.  

Alas, I realized my trip will begin right as we are doing our quarterly reporting (we just redid all out agreements and timing has all shifted). I want to get that done and then go. I don’t want to spend vacation time working. Bleh. 

[Tonesky 1042]

On 9/3/2024 at 2:03 PM, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

If I were going to add 3-4 nights on the front end of my trip to try and stay in the Verona/Lake Garda area, where exactly should I stay for those days.  This is in early May 2025.

 

 

7 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Meh, I think I am going to stick to my current plan.  

 

4 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Alas, I realized my trip will begin right as we are doing our quarterly reporting (we just redid all out agreements and timing has all shifted). I want to get that done and then go. I don’t want to spend vacation time working. Bleh. 

So, now you’ll be adding 3-4 days at the end, right?

[PenelopeWitherspoon 19279]

10 hours ago, Tonesky said:

 

 

So, now you’ll be adding 3-4 days at the end, right?

Potentially.  Actually, that’s a phenom idea. 

[Mac8111 2129]

Palermo

[MAUFRAIS 6732]

[Mac8111 2129]

Alba Truffle Festival

[Biff Tannen 46061]

Holy fuck yes please

[locodos 5583]

On 7/17/2024 at 5:07 PM, Chopper said:

Here's an under-the-radar idea for your next trip to Florence.

As my degenerate friends used to say... 1, 2, 3, not bacchus!   (bacchus gets killed at the end of the freak fest)

[Firemans4Horn 18500]

My 5 year old walked past a woman smoking and said:

"It smells like we're in Italy” 😂 💀

[Biff Tannen 46061]

We are one step closer to getting my wife’s dual citizenship. Now it’s off to the courts in Italy. Hoping to finalize in another year or two. 

[VABuckeye 2481]

It looks like we are going in September.  It will probably be a 12 day trip which is shorter than I'd like but work happens.  I'm thinking fly into Milan on Emirates and do the Dolomites, Bologna and a certain town in Tuscany called Greve.  I've always wanted to stay on that piazza.

[VABuckeye 2481]

On 10/14/2024 at 7:40 PM, Mac8111 said:

Alba Truffle Festival

Alba and the surrounding area is amazing.  Glad you were there for the festival.  Eating there is great. They ask you if you want the truffle and you tell them when to stop.  No upcharge.  In NYC that’s $100 a scrape over the plate or more.