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The Italy Thread


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6 hours ago, texasdago said:

By the airport?  Go visit Ostia Antica, eat seafood in Fiumicino and Ostia.

Yeah the conference is at the Rome Marriott Park Hotel by the airport. I guess it’s convenient for the European attendees not there as a co-vacation, but not convenient for us foreigners who are really going for the experience not the conference. 45 min+ train rides each way to get into Rome for sightseeing. I presume a shit ton of walking in our future unless Uber is reliable. Wife wants to tourist it up and see Vatican and Colosseum. Feeling cute, may rock a fanny pack. We may rent a car and drive either up to Florence or south to Naples/Pompeii as a one/two day trip, unless a train to either makes more sense and is convenient from the airport. 

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9 hours ago, Mo Horn said:

Mrs. Mo and I are in the early planning for our first trip to Italy in September. I've read through this thread and looking for ideas from those with experience. We're fying in and out of Rome and get in on a Sunday and leaving on Thursday, 12 days later. Planning on staying in Rome until Tuesday or Wednesday and we need to be back in Rome by the end of the day the next Wednesday to catch our flight on Thursday. That's where our conundrum begins. We'd like to do the Cinque Terra, Florence, and hill towns in Tuscany. We'd like to do both museums and cathedrals, but also want to enjoy the Tuscan countryside, restaurants, and wineries. That means probably less time in these three places than we'd really like. Or, do we do just two of the three, and if so which 2.  Right now, if I were to eliminate one it would be the CT, although I really want to go there.  When we travel we like hitting the major sites, but also try to experience as much of the real country and culture as possible. We're not sit by the pool and read a book vacationers. We like to see things, and become as much as possible, Italians for our time there. Any thoughts would be appreciated. 

You can do all of this in 12 days, especially if you get up and go each day like you say. 

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When we travel we like hitting the major sites, but also try to experience as much of the real country and culture as possible. We're not sit by the pool and read a book vacationers. We like to see things, and become as much as possible, Italians for our time there. Any thoughts would be appreciated. 


Your goals of seeing the major sites and immersing yourselves in the country and becoming Italians seem to be at odds with each other.

If you’re going to the Colosseum, Forum, Vatican, Duomo, etc you will be surrounded by tourists. I feel like most people should do those things at least once, but just know there will be crowds of people just like yourselves.

We love Cinque Terre but it can also be very crowded and touristy, depending on when you go. If you day trip and don’t stay overnight there, you will be in the middle of the crowds. I think it’s much more enjoyable in the late afternoon and evenings when the crowds have left on boats and trains to wherever they came in from.

Tuscany seems to fit your interests the most. Stay in the countryside and rent a car to cruise around. That gives you the freedom to get away from the crowds and explore on your own.
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44 minutes ago, wild_turkey said:

 


Your goals of seeing the major sites and immersing yourselves in the country and becoming Italians seem to be at odds with each other.

If you’re going to the Colosseum, Forum, Vatican, Duomo, etc you will be surrounded by tourists. I feel like most people should do those things at least once, but just know there will be crowds of people just like yourselves.

We love Cinque Terre but it can also be very crowded and touristy, depending on when you go. If you day trip and don’t stay overnight there, you will be in the middle of the crowds. I think it’s much more enjoyable in the late afternoon and evenings when the crowds have left on boats and trains to wherever they came in from.

Tuscany seems to fit your interests the most. Stay in the countryside and rent a car to cruise around. That gives you the freedom to get away from the crowds and explore on your own.

 

We do find ourselves at odds.  We love trying to be locals, but it seems crazy to go and not see the major sites... which we also enjoy... so we deal with the crowds.  We try to find a balance. We'll be tourists at the big sites and locals all other times. If we had a month, and unlimited funds, it would be easier. Alas, we do not.

The current plan is to do Rome then take the train to the CT and spend a couple of days there so we can have some time after the day trippers leave.  We're looking at 5 or 6 days for that. We'll then rent a car and stay in an Agraturismo somewhere between Florence and Sienna. That way we can decide what days we want to drive into the city and hit a museum and cathedral and what day we just want to drive the countryside and find some out of the way places. We'll then drive to a hotel close to the Rome airport and turn in the car when we fly out. That's the rest of our time.

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9 hours ago, Murfdogg21 said:

Yeah the conference is at the Rome Marriott Park Hotel by the airport. I guess it’s convenient for the European attendees not there as a co-vacation, but not convenient for us foreigners who are really going for the experience not the conference. 45 min+ train rides each way to get into Rome for sightseeing. I presume a shit ton of walking in our future unless Uber is reliable. Wife wants to tourist it up and see Vatican and Colosseum. Feeling cute, may rock a fanny pack. We may rent a car and drive either up to Florence or south to Naples/Pompeii as a one/two day trip, unless a train to either makes more sense and is convenient from the airport. 

I mean, I don't know... its a pain in the ass location to go into town.  I have to double-check if Uber is still around because the last time I was there, there was a concerted push to kick them out and Roman taxis kind of suck when it comes to honesty.   Edit: just checked - there is no UberX. It is Uber Black and higher so you can guess the cost if trying to take it into town.  While I am comfortable driving in Italy, I have driven in Rome and don't necessarily recommend it.  As for driving up to Florence from FCO, you could do that.  I have closer suggestions but if you're trying to see the most touristy things in Italy, you're doing it on a really tight schedule.   If you are dead set of going into Rome with the masses, take the train from FCO to Termini and then hop onto the metro to go closer to what you want like the Colosseum.  

 

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3 minutes ago, Mo Horn said:

We do find ourselves at odds.  We love trying to be locals, but it seems crazy to go and not see the major sites... which we also enjoy... so we deal with the crowds.  We try to find a balance. We'll be tourists at the big sites and locals all other times. If we had a month, and unlimited funds, it would be easier. Alas, we do not.

The current plan is to do Rome then take the train to the CT and spend a couple of days there so we can have some time after the day trippers leave.  We're looking at 5 or 6 days for that. We'll then rent a car and stay in an Agraturismo somewhere between Florence and Sienna. That way we can decide what days we want to drive into the city and hit a museum and cathedral and what day we just want to drive the countryside and find some out of the way places. We'll then drive to a hotel close to the Rome airport and turn in the car when we fly out. That's the rest of our time.

Honestly this sounds perfect.  My wife and I have the same mindset as you and we did CT and Tuscany in 8 or 9 days and it was plenty of time.  For CT we stayed in Portovenere and took the ferry over to the towns in the mornings.  Crowds aren't bad until later.

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If you use a taxi in the city go to the official taxi stands.  DO NOT take a ride in a "taxi" that approaches you on the street.  They are gypsy taxi drivers and are not to be trusted.

My vote would be to do Florence and then the Tuscan countryside.  The faswt train from Rome to Florence only takes a couple of hours and then you can rent a car and drive into the countryside.  I'd do the Chianti Classico region.  Greve, Radda, Gaiole in Chianti, Montalcino or Montepulciano all would be great bases from which to explore.  There are two fantastic enotecas in the area.  The first is in Greve (Enoteca Falorni) and the second is in Montalcino (Enoteca la Fortezza).

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Yeah the conference is at the Rome Marriott Park Hotel by the airport. I guess it’s convenient for the European attendees not there as a co-vacation, but not convenient for us foreigners who are really going for the experience not the conference. 45 min+ train rides each way to get into Rome for sightseeing. I presume a shit ton of walking in our future unless Uber is reliable. Wife wants to tourist it up and see Vatican and Colosseum. Feeling cute, may rock a fanny pack. We may rent a car and drive either up to Florence or south to Naples/Pompeii as a one/two day trip, unless a train to either makes more sense and is convenient from the airport. 
The place I always recommend in Rome, and so far it's been well received, is La Sagrestia (https://www.lasagrestia.com/). Went there twice two nights in a row. It is near the Pantheon in a touristy area, but this place is family owned and has been opened a while. I think my review and photos might be in my travel thread. It was fantastic. When I go back to Rome, I'll definitely head back.
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As a bump, I'm currently trying to figure out my late October trip. My 2019 plans for Italy were scuttled, and I'm finding great fares from NY.

Debating on throwing whether doing Milan/Rome with each for 6 nights so I can take my time and explore as I like to do. Or, add 3 nights and do 5 nights each in Milan, Florence and Rome. #firstworldproblems

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I'm going again in May.  My old friend in  castiglione del lago is going to be gone for a month, and he's generously offered us his home and car for that time. 

We intend to use it as our home-base, and will take car trips and train trips from there.   We are just starting to develop our plans.    Mostly, we intend to drink great wine and eat amazing food. 

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I'm going again in May.  My old friend in  castiglione del lago is going to be gone for a month, and he's generously offered us his home and car for that time. 
We intend to use it as our home-base, and will take car trips and train trips from there.   We are just starting to develop our plans.    Mostly, we intend to drink great wine and eat amazing food. 
Jealous.
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4 hours ago, LonghornJones said:

Any must do's/must see's along the Amalfi Coast with a group of 14? Looking to rent a house for 5 nights with a pool and do a lot of relaxing/drinking. Day trips to Pompeii and Capri on the agenda. Otherwise, any ideas are welcome. We do not plan on renting a car.

Honestly, I would skip the day in Capri.  

Definitely see about private hires of boats.  You might need two for your group, but the best days we spent on the Coast were the days we rented the boats for the day.  

Be ready for stairs/hills.

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Ty.

I am looking at how difficult it is to get from Naples to Praiano/Amalfi since we aren't renting a car. Any recommendations for a large group, or should couples just fend for themselves? From the blogs I have read, it looks like most take a train to Salerno and then taxi the second leg. Is a private car/bus something they can do over there? I will need to keep in mind the return trip, and I think a car service would be more dependable. 

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I've been Rome probably 10 times to visit family and friends. There's always something to do and its easy to see something you haven't seen before.  For sure, Rome is a city that can take weeks upon weeks.  That said, most tourists decide to see 5-6 things with everyone else and, yeah, at that point it seems overwhelming.  I always tell people, for a change of pace while in Rome go to Ostia Antica or the Appian Way or check out the Parco degli Acquedotti.  

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1 hour ago, LonghornJones said:

Ty.

I am looking at how difficult it is to get from Naples to Praiano/Amalfi since we aren't renting a car. Any recommendations for a large group, or should couples just fend for themselves? From the blogs I have read, it looks like most take a train to Salerno and then taxi the second leg. Is a private car/bus something they can do over there? I will need to keep in mind the return trip, and I think a car service would be more dependable. 

Disagree with Penelope on skipping Capri, but IMO a few hours in the town was plenty.  We hired a boat in the town of Amalfi and did a 1/2 Capri tour (was like 5 hour round trip, with multiple stops for swimming).

Any reason why you are definitely not renting a car?  My wife and I had one, and frankly I'm not sure how we would have gotten around without it.  I know people do it, but it takes a lot of planning, and then tearing up those plans because it's Italy and nothing runs on time.  

If you are outdoor people at all, I highly recommend the Path of the Gods hike.  It was one of the most memorable days of my life.  Started in Bomerano in the morning, hiked to Nocelle, then down to Il San Pietro de Positano hotel to eat lunch at the Michelin starred Zass for lunch.  We packed a change of clothes in our backpacks.  Had a 5 course tasting lunch (really more like 7-8 with the extras they bring) with wine over about 3 hours, then changed back into our hiking clothes and hiked back the way we came.  Even stopped in an old abandoned shed along the way back close to sundown for a quickie.  The hike was absolutely amazing.

 

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36 minutes ago, texasdago said:

I've been Rome probably 10 times to visit family and friends. There's always something to do and its easy to see something you haven't seen before.  For sure, Rome is a city that can take weeks upon weeks.  That said, most tourists decide to see 5-6 things with everyone else and, yeah, at that point it seems overwhelming.  I always tell people, for a change of pace while in Rome go to Ostia Antica or the Appian Way or check out the Parco degli Acquedotti.  

 

I don't think anyone would downplay Rome significance, but as a place to visit it's pretty meh for the average person. It's basically the worst of both worlds combination of Southern Italy and a tourist destination. If someone is a Euro history buff, then yeah, Rome is a holy grail city, but for someone just looking to visit Italy, it's really a one and done place.

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2 minutes ago, Wiler77 said:

Disagree with Penelope on skipping Capri, but IMO a few hours in the town was plenty.  We hired a boat in the town of Amalfi and did a 1/2 Capri tour (was like 5 hour round trip, with multiple stops for swimming).

Any reason why you are definitely not renting a car?  My wife and I had one, and frankly I'm not sure how we would have gotten around without it.  I know people do it, but it takes a lot of planning, and then tearing up those plans because it's Italy and nothing runs on time.  

If you are outdoor people at all, I highly recommend the Path of the Gods hike.  It was one of the most memorable days of my life.  Started in Bomerano in the morning, hiked to Nocelle, then down to Il San Pietro de Positano hotel to eat lunch at the Michelin starred Zass for lunch.  We packed a change of clothes in our backpacks.  Had a 5 course tasting lunch (really more like 7-8 with the extras they bring) with wine over about 3 hours, then changed back into our hiking clothes and hiked back the way we came.  Even stopped in an old abandoned shed along the way back close to sundown for a quickie.  The hike was absolutely amazing.

 

Wife is not outdoorsy. We aren't renting a car bc I don't think we will need it. We will just take the bus. We do not plan on leaving the Amalfi Coast, other than the two day trips. I have looked in to the private boat rental, but with a group of 14, we may have to split up in to 2 boats. We are renting a house on the water'ish with a pool and a view and plan on relaxing. Also looking for a chef daily if anyone has gone that route.

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32 minutes ago, G650 said:

 

I don't think anyone would downplay Rome significance, but as a place to visit it's pretty meh for the average person. It's basically the worst of both worlds combination of Southern Italy and a tourist destination. If someone is a Euro history buff, then yeah, Rome is a holy grail city, but for someone just looking to visit Italy, it's really a one and done place.

Well, and Rome is Rome and doesn't provide an accurate representation of Italy but neither does Rome-Florence-Venice or "everyone is going to Positano so i want to go there".  I wish more people would hop in a car and visit around - so much more to see.

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I feel like I could spend a month in Rome and not get bored.  But I'm kind of a history buff that likes food and wine.  The most intriguing thing I'd like to do is to rent an appt in a local neighbor hood and go native for a month.  

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1 hour ago, LonghornJones said:

Wife is not outdoorsy. We aren't renting a car bc I don't think we will need it. We will just take the bus. We do not plan on leaving the Amalfi Coast, other than the two day trips. I have looked in to the private boat rental, but with a group of 14, we may have to split up in to 2 boats. We are renting a house on the water'ish with a pool and a view and plan on relaxing. Also looking for a chef daily if anyone has gone that route.

The Amalfi Coast is 30 miles long, so saying you aren't leaving the coast doesn't mean you won't need to get around.  But if you plan to just hang at the house except for the day trips, you'll be fine.  You'll miss a lot of cool shit, but yea you won't need a car.  I was going to ask where you plan on eating because unless you're in a town center, I don't remember seeing a taxi.  But hiring your own chef is a pretty cool idea.  I'll be interested hearing about your experience.

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1 hour ago, LonghornJones said:

Wife is not outdoorsy. We aren't renting a car bc I don't think we will need it. We will just take the bus. We do not plan on leaving the Amalfi Coast, other than the two day trips. I have looked in to the private boat rental, but with a group of 14, we may have to split up in to 2 boats. We are renting a house on the water'ish with a pool and a view and plan on relaxing. Also looking for a chef daily if anyone has gone that route.

We used these guys and highly recommend:

https://www.sorrentoluxurycharter.it/

Depending on where your house is, they can pick you up at smaller marinas.  They picked us up in Vico Equense IIRC

Ask the captain to stop for lunch here in Nerano:

http://www.ristorantecantuccio.com/

images.jpg.832ba917223acb897c98b7a2ef9f3856.jpg

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i will reiterate a couple of things wiler mentioned.

1) i agree with disagreeing with penelope on capri.  i fucking loved that island.  if you are going in the summer and just planning on hanging out in the piazetta, then there is no need but capri is great once you leave that area.  i posted a couple of capri pics in this post a few pages back.

2) i don't think you need to rent a car, particularly if you are herding 14 cats which sounds like a fucking nightmare by the way.  i have done it both ways and enjoyed having a car myself...but if you aren't a confident driver, that is not the road to be driving on.  you will have a lot more memorable experiences renting a boat than a car in my opinion.  depending on where you are staying, there are lots of public boats/ferries for getting around that you can plan with.

3) reconsider the "we're not outdoors" mentality for this one.  path of the gods is a great hike, and just one of many opportunities for something a bit more memorable.  also some great hikes on the backside of capri.

4) a bit of a rule of thumb based almost exclusively on my anecdotal experience in that area.  the closer to the water, the shittier the restaurant.  large tourist turnover joints without a lot of quality.  just my experience.

 

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56 minutes ago, Axiom of Choice said:

I'm shocked by the number of people who don't really enjoy Rome.  I love it there, think it is one of the most interesting places in the world.  But to each his own, and when traveling one should do whatever they enjoy.  

I also agree on the value of renting a car and driving around Italy.  I wouldn't do it with 14 people, but that would be my preference if I could fit everyone into a single vehicle.  I think you get a much better feel for a place when driving.  From driving around, often completely lost before smart phones controlled the world, I've been to many places and small towns that I really enjoyed that I never would have known existed otherwise.   

Don't get me wrong -- we really enjoyed Rome.  Just not in a hurry to go back there.  Will be in Italy (and France) in April, but hitting Milan, Florence and Venice.

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2 hours ago, Wiler77 said:

The Amalfi Coast is 30 miles long, so saying you aren't leaving the coast doesn't mean you won't need to get around.  But if you plan to just hang at the house except for the day trips, you'll be fine.  You'll miss a lot of cool shit, but yea you won't need a car.  I was going to ask where you plan on eating because unless you're in a town center, I don't remember seeing a taxi.  But hiring your own chef is a pretty cool idea.  I'll be interested hearing about your experience.

Fuck driving on the Amalfi coast.  Seriously.  

The issue with Capri is while it is pretty, if you are only there for 5 days, it is a waste of time. We were on the coast for a week, and I feel like we screwed up by going to Capri.

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3 hours ago, Loco said:

The most intriguing thing I'd like to do is to rent an appt in a local neighbor hood and go native for a month.  

 

I'd go this route in Milan with the actual industrious and qualified to drive Italians.

 

1 hour ago, AustinMT said:

Don't get me wrong -- we really enjoyed Rome.

Yeah, I don't think anyone is bagging on Rome. It's a great place to see. I just think everything north of there has so much more to offer.

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30 minutes ago, Loco said:

Actually got coffee out my nose on that one.  Well played

 

North of Lazio/Rome driving is absolutely fine.  Indistinguishable from neighboring countries that you dont think twice about it.  Its when you get south that scooters zip around and people do what they like.

 

Geographic oddity that country

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2 hours ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:

Fuck driving on the Amalfi coast.  Seriously.  

The issue with Capri is while it is pretty, if you are only there for 5 days, it is a waste of time. We were on the coast for a week, and I feel like we screwed up by going to Capri.

LOL, well I guess it depends on where you stay, but I didn't have a problem with driving, and I didn't find it very difficult.  It fact, it greatly increased our flexiblity.  It's not like we drove everywhere.  We drove to Pompeii one day.  We drove to Amalfi to catch the boat to Capri.  And we drove to and from the Rome airport.  We pretty much walked everywhere else.

We can agree to disagree about Capri.  Once we got away from the tourist trap where all the boats drop off, we enjoyed the island.  Had one of our most memorable meals of the trip there at a random restaurant tucked away in the maze of stairs off the beaten path.

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On 1/24/2020 at 11:27 AM, Axiom of Choice said:

I'm shocked by the number of people who don't really enjoy Rome.  I love it there, think it is one of the most interesting places in the world.  But to each his own, and when traveling one should do whatever they enjoy.  

I also agree on the value of renting a car and driving around Italy.  I wouldn't do it with 14 people, but that would be my preference if I could fit everyone into a single vehicle.  I think you get a much better feel for a place when driving.  From driving around, often completely lost before smart phones controlled the world, I've been to many places and small towns that I really enjoyed that I never would have known existed otherwise.   

Visiting Rome is almost like going back in time.  It’s not very luxurious and the food scene was not even average but as history dorks, the wife and I loved it.  It reminds me of Budapest in that it hasn’t changed nearly as much as Florence etc...

But it’s just not a luxurious locale.  I can see how it’s not for everyone - which is great...the last thing any Italian tourist city needs is more fucking people.  My favorite month to hit Rome? January.  

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On 1/24/2020 at 11:27 AM, Axiom of Choice said:

I'm shocked by the number of people who don't really enjoy Rome.  I love it there, think it is one of the most interesting places in the world.  But to each his own, and when traveling one should do whatever they enjoy.  

I also agree on the value of renting a car and driving around Italy.  I wouldn't do it with 14 people, but that would be my preference if I could fit everyone into a single vehicle.  I think you get a much better feel for a place when driving.  From driving around, often completely lost before smart phones controlled the world, I've been to many places and small towns that I really enjoyed that I never would have known existed otherwise.   

Visiting Rome is almost like going back in time.  It’s not very luxurious and the food scene was not even average but as history dorks, the wife and I loved it.  It reminds me of Budapest in that it hasn’t changed nearly as much as Florence etc...

But it’s just not a luxurious locale.  I can see how it’s not for everyone - which is great...the last thing any Italian tourist city needs is more fucking people.  My favorite month to hit Rome? January.  

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2 hours ago, ChiTownDoc said:

Visiting Rome is almost like going back in time.  It’s not very luxurious and the food scene was not even average but as history dorks, the wife and I loved it.  It reminds me of Budapest in that it hasn’t changed nearly as much as Florence etc...

But it’s just not a luxurious locale.  I can see how it’s not for everyone - which is great...the last thing any Italian tourist city needs is more fucking people.  My favorite month to hit Rome? January.  

I see what you mean, I feel like I just went back in time too

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I would echo the favorable opinion of Capri.  In fact, I would go so far as to suggest staying on Capri and doing day trips to Positano and Amalfi via ferry.  But sounds like you plans are already made.

I would also not drive the Amalfi Coast, although a capable driver would have no problem negotiating the roads, he would have to pay total and complete attention thereby missing out on a lot of the sights.  With a little advance planning you can do everything via taxi/car for hire.  Split the cost of 3-4 cabs among 14 folks and it's very reasonable.  All the cab/car co's along the coast will have mini vans or even vehicles like a Mercedes Sprinter.  The wife (no pics) and I took a cab from Praiano to Salerno which turned out to be a mini van and I wanna say it was 100 euros might have been a little less.  We got that set up at the hotel the day before.

 

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8 hours ago, ChiTownDoc said:

Visiting Rome is almost like going back in time.  It’s not very luxurious and the food scene was not even average but as history dorks, the wife and I loved it.  It reminds me of Budapest in that it hasn’t changed nearly as much as Florence etc...

But it’s just not a luxurious locale.  I can see how it’s not for everyone - which is great...the last thing any Italian tourist city needs is more fucking people.  My favorite month to hit Rome? January.  

Yes. Everyone go to Rome. And the south of Italy in general. There’s nothing to see in northern Italy. Nothing!

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3 hours ago, texasdago said:

"the food scene was not even average but as history dorks"

 

Image result for wtf

 

42 minutes ago, PenelopeWitherspoon said:
3 hours ago, texasdago said:
"the food scene was not even average but as history dorks"
 
9g7uq7awmyr01.jpg

Yeah, that comment confused me too.

Really?  I think there’s been multiple comments about the food.  Food in Rome blows compared to northern Italy.  Yeah I don’t consider it even average for any major city.  I guess if you’re comparing it to some podunk town in Texas it’s great?

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12 hours ago, ChiTownDoc said:

 

Really?  I think there’s been multiple comments about the food.  Food in Rome blows compared to northern Italy.  Yeah I don’t consider it even average for any major city.  I guess if you’re comparing it to some podunk town in Texas it’s great?

I think that some of us do not agree with that assessment.  Just because you and a couple of other people think that, does not mean that it is necessarily true. 

Opinions are like assholes, everyone has one.  Does not mean they are correct or should be weighted more than someone elses opinion.  But you be you.

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