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https://www.dallasnews.com/food/restaurant-news/2019/11/12/sandwich-nirvana-why-we-love-this-wagyu-cheesesteak-at-niwa-japanese-bbq/?fbclid=IwAR3tFA18lWyUjSfO7FEKr6SWTwAr_1WIvdT_9E6--NNdFyqRZifQmYIfKSU

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Sandwich nirvana: Why we love this wagyu cheesesteak at Niwa Japanese BBQ

The sandwich is a melty umami bomb, made with Toriyama wagyu, local cheese and lots of Japanese mushrooms.

Niwa BBQ has a cheesesteak made with A4 Wagyu Toriyama from Japan, the real stuff from the Gunma prefecture and a mustard dipping sauce. (Benjamin Robinson/Staff Photographer)
Niwa BBQ has a cheesesteak made with A4 Wagyu Toriyama from Japan, the real stuff from the Gunma prefecture and a mustard dipping sauce. (Benjamin Robinson/Staff Photographer)(Benjamin M. Robinson / Staff Photographer)

By Nick Rallo

8:00 AM on Nov 12, 2019

 

Right now, nearly a day’s drive from the caldera of Mount Akagi, the 31,000-year-old stratovolcano in the Gunma Prefecture of Japan, 1,200 or so wagyu cattle are likely roaming around in the clean air. Some will continue their luxurious stay. They’ll munch and rest, a quiet 800 miles from the base of the mountain. But one of the cows, its marbling as white as snow, might become the most surprising thing one could imagine of the breed: a cheesesteak in Dallas, Texas.

The certificate that authenticates the cattle from the ranch in Toriyama includes the inkprint of the cow’s nose. That’s one way Jimmy Niwa, owner of Niwa Japanese BBQ in Dallas, knows his wagyu ― the real stuff ― is special. The other is the immaculate, big-as-the-moon flavor. Also, Niwa BBQ is the only restaurant in the state of Texas that serves Toriyama wagyu.

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Niwa and his team made Toriyama’s mountain cattle into a cheesesteak, and it wasn’t intentional.

It’s been a year since Niwa started selling Toriyama wagyu. They’ve tried different things, including cuts that reach A4 on the grading scale. One idea was to coarse-grind it, shape it into a patty, and grill up a hamburger that would probably be a beef punch as hard as an uppercut from Captain America.

“We were about to grind it up, but, man, this just looks too pretty,” Niwa says. Instead, they temper the wagyu until it’s just above freezing, then slice it into thin ribbons. Niwa and executive chef John Paul Alcocer collaborated on the rest of the cheesesteak dish.

Niwa BBQ has a cheesesteak made with A4 wagyu Toriyama from Japan, the real stuff from the Gunma prefecture, and a mustard dipping sauce. Niwa BBQ has a cheesesteak made with A4 wagyu Toriyama from Japan, the real stuff from the Gunma prefecture, and a mustard dipping sauce. (Benjamin M. Robinson / Staff Photographer)

There are Peruvian teardrop peppers for relish and a mushroom puree that cooks in a little bit of butter. The onions simmer with a fistfull of good Japanese mushrooms. The cheese is the lavish deathblow: They cover the mixture of mushrooms-onions-peppers with a black-pepper-and-garlic-infused caciotta ― a soft Italian cheese ― from Deep Ellum’s own Mozzarella Co. They toast the bun until it’s crackling in some of that mushroom butter.

“I wish we could say we got it [the bun] from somewhere special, but we get it from Central Market. If ain’t broken ...” Niwa says, chuckling.

The end result is a $14 cheesesteak (they may knock down the price in the future) to challenge every cheesesteak purist out there. It’s not umbrella-long like most cheesesteaks: Niwa’s is about 5 inches. It’s both humble and opulent. Breaking through the bread, finding the smoky-char of the wagyu, you won’t need more. The bread cracks, the ribboned edges of the beef, seared until it has an imperceptible crust, melts into the cheese as rapidly and neatly as ice would on a hot pan. The mushrooms have enormous, sky-rocketing umami.

Niwa BBQ has a cheesesteak made with A4 wagyu Toriyama from Japan, the real stuff from the Gunma prefecture. and a mustard dipping sauce. Niwa BBQ has a cheesesteak made with A4 wagyu Toriyama from Japan, the real stuff from the Gunma prefecture. and a mustard dipping sauce. (Benjamin M. Robinson / Staff Photographer)

The whole sandwich is a stunner. It’s both unpretentious, somehow, and a lightning-strike of shocking elegance. With the grill volcano-hot (there are always sizzling sounds at Niwa), Alcocer simply treats the wagyu with a quick sear. There’s no added salt. The quartz-like marbling melts, and they don’t even need oil in the pan.

Niwa compliments the sandwich with hot honey mustard ― a deepening heat you feel at the center of your mind ― from Japanese mustard. It’s worth sinking the entire sub.

“We were joking about it being a sellout cheesesteak,” Niwa says, “But the thing is, when we ate, we just said whatever.“

So, yes, cheesesteak aficionados, leave your Cheez Whiz on the doorstep for today. You won’t need it. You want this sandwich.

Niwa Japanese BBQ, 2939 Main St., Dallas. niwabbq.com.

 

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  • 3 months later...
On 9/11/2019 at 4:15 PM, C-Man said:

Met Lando at Stacks. Thrown together kind of last minute so I apologize DDD. Lando initially forgot about it anyways.

I got the fried green tomato/pimento cheese and it was OK, I guess. A little on the weird side (blue cornmeal baked into the bread). Lando got the BLT and it was pretty tasty but there was very little product in between the three slices of bread. We both got the tater-tot sides and they were a bit off-putting. Not very good at all. I'll give it another shot just to try the friend chicken and perhaps the brisket torta. Drink options were weird too.

Stacks didn't make it, buddy...

https://www.yelp.com/biz/stacks-sandwich-co-dallas

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On 2/19/2019 at 2:28 PM, ztejas said:

Cuban from Great American Hero. Would probably go double meat next time - but their pickles are fucking bomb.

Tried Great American Hero for the first time yesterday.  Got the Italian and agree...double meat a definite must.  May have been pretty good if I'd gone that route.  As it was, it was all bread and lettuce.  Pickles were badass though.

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Stacking Bread: How Hunter Pond Has Grown His Restaurant Empire

Didn't really know where else to put this, but I guess I'll go with here since most of his "restaurant empire" is East Hampton Sandwiches.  Pretty amazing success for a 32 year old dude in a really tough industry.  And really drives home the part about the business side of the restaurant being so important.  Pretty good read...

https://www.dmagazine.com/publications/d-ceo/2020/march/stacking-bread-hunter-pond-continues-to-grow-his-32-million-restaurant-empire/

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A Mendocino Farms opened on Ross across from the Trammell Crow Building.  I haven't been yet, but there was one near a client I worked on in LA, and it was the (only) highlight of my days there.  Love the Not So Fried Chicken, but never had anything I didn't like.  https://www.mendocinofarms.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/2020_SPRINGMenu_Digital_T1-small.pdf

Yelp photo:

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Went to Hillside Tavern today for the first time. Patty melt was probably a 6/10 but my friends fried chicken sandwich looked incredible. Fries were great but you can pass on the onion rings. They had multiple other things that looked good and I’ll be back. Happy hour from 12-6 on Fridays so the 2 drinks made this crazy ass week a little more tolerable. 

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Went to Hillside Tavern today for the first time. Patty melt was probably a 6/10 but my friends fried chicken sandwich looked incredible. Fries were great but you can pass on the onion rings. They had multiple other things that looked good and I’ll be back. Happy hour from 12-6 on Fridays so the 2 drinks made this crazy ass week a little more tolerable. 

I keep meaning to go there. It’s just down the street for me but for some reason never gets in our rotation.
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  • 2 months later...

Elke’s market cafe in Allen has good sandwiches. Get the “other nutty”, one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever had. 
 

Toasted farmhouse wheat bread, smoked turkey, smoky almond spread, bacon, candied jalapenos and strawberry preserves.

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Going back a page.  The Latin Deli.  Didn't this place have a location downtown?  I swear I ate at a place with the exact same menu last year while stuck in jury duty for 3 weeks.  I'm only seeing a location near White Rock and one in Addison now. 

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19 hours ago, Knoxtnhorn said:

Going back a page.  The Latin Deli.  Didn't this place have a location downtown?  I swear I ate at a place with the exact same menu last year while stuck in jury duty for 3 weeks.  I'm only seeing a location near White Rock and one in Addison now. 

Pretty sure it's the best walkable place for a quick but good jury duty lunch.  I did the same thing when I was there for 5 days.    Great stuff.  I hope it is still there.

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On 5/18/2020 at 8:37 AM, DFWTexEx said:

Pretty sure it's the best walkable place for a quick but good jury duty lunch.  I did the same thing when I was there for 5 days.    Great stuff.  I hope it is still there.

Cindy's was also a good jury duty/trial lunch spot.  For some reason I was thinking they had closed it before the world changed.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 7 months later...
  • 3 months later...
7 hours ago, C-Man said:

Y'all probably already know this but Jimmy's sandwich operation is back up and running

Dude I was wondering about this the other day when it comes to places I have to come back to when I'm in Dallas. 

First, I'm abhorred to learn it was ever non-operative, second, I'm glad to hear it's back up and running and I will be visiting it the next time I'm in town. 

How's the badass German market and restaurant doing that's right off 75 and Nw Hwy. Still going strong? 

Btw - take it from me - you should all love SMU for getting 1,500 kids every year to love Dallas. No one I went to school with would say a bad word about the city. 

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5 hours ago, ztejas said:

Dude I was wondering about this the other day when it comes to places I have to come back to when I'm in Dallas. 

First, I'm abhorred to learn it was ever non-operative, second, I'm glad to hear it's back up and running and I will be visiting it the next time I'm in town. 

How's the badass German market and restaurant doing that's right off 75 and Nw Hwy. Still going strong? 

Btw - take it from me - you should all love SMU for getting 1,500 kids every year to love Dallas. No one I went to school with would say a bad word about the city. 

Well, what’s not to love?

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9 hours ago, ztejas said:

Dude I was wondering about this the other day when it comes to places I have to come back to when I'm in Dallas. 

First, I'm abhorred to learn it was ever non-operative, second, I'm glad to hear it's back up and running and I will be visiting it the next time I'm in town. 

How's the badass German market and restaurant doing that's right off 75 and Nw Hwy. Still going strong? 

Btw - take it from me - you should all love SMU for getting 1,500 kids every year to love Dallas. No one I went to school with would say a bad word about the city. 

If you are talking about Kuby’s, a guy who went to SMU should know that it’s in Snider Plaza, which is at Hillcrest & Lovers, and it’s still going strong.

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If you are talking about Kuby’s, a guy who went to SMU should know that it’s in Snider Plaza, which is at Hillcrest & Lovers, and it’s still going strong.

No, I think he’s talking about Henk’s Black Forest Cafe. I haven’t heard anything that would lead me to believe it’s closed but I haven’t been in years and it’s tucked away back there so I don’t just drive by it.
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1 minute ago, C-Man said:


No, I think he’s talking about Henk’s Black Forest Cafe. I haven’t heard anything that would lead me to believe it’s closed but I haven’t been in years and it’s tucked away back there so I don’t just drive by it.

Never heard of it, and I’ve lived in Dallas most of my life.  Market/restaurant description felt like Kuby’s to me.  Just looked it up, appears to be open and you aren’t kidding about it being tucked away.  

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Never heard of it, and I’ve lived in Dallas most of my life.  Market/restaurant description felt like Kuby’s to me.  Just looked it up, appears to be open and you aren’t kidding about it being tucked away.  

Henk’s is fantastic. I think the restaurant side is better than Kuby’s but Kuby’s market is better. I used to go to Henk’s for lunch when I worked in the Milliman Building 10+ years ago.
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15 minutes ago, C-Man said:


Henk’s is fantastic. I think the restaurant side is better than Kuby’s but Kuby’s market is better. I used to go to Henk’s for lunch when I worked in the Milliman Building 10+ years ago.

I’ll check it out the next time I am in the area and hungry.

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On 7/10/2021 at 7:17 PM, C-Man said:

Y'all probably already know this but Jimmy's sandwich operation is back up and running

Hit it today. Got the spicy sausage. After at least 16 months since I've had one, it's still the best damn sandwich around. It was glorious!

Sadly, they've removed all dining table options, outside and inside. Asked guy at the deli about it and he had no idea when it will return. Said they'll bring back outdoor dining first, which makes sense, but they're taking this thing a little far if you ask me. I mean, I was all about being safe, but aren't we a bit past that point by now? At least outdoors

Anyway, it appears that's either keeping people away or people haven't heard their sandwiches are back yet or something. Because it was really dead compared to pre-pandemic times. By far the quickest lunch I've ever gotten there.

Oh well, they'll bounce back I'm sure. I'm just glad they're still there. Other than that, everything else seemed about the same.

Love that place.

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20 hours ago, Landomatic said:

Hit it today. Got the spicy sausage. After at least 16 months since I've had one, it's still the best damn sandwich around. It was glorious!

Sadly, they've removed all dining table options, outside and inside. Asked guy at the deli about it and he had no idea when it will return. Said they'll bring back outdoor dining first, which makes sense, but they're taking this thing a little far if you ask me. I mean, I was all about being safe, but aren't we a bit past that point by now? At least outdoors

Anyway, it appears that's either keeping people away or people haven't heard their sandwiches are back yet or something. Because it was really dead compared to pre-pandemic times. By far the quickest lunch I've ever gotten there.

Oh well, they'll bounce back I'm sure. I'm just glad they're still there. Other than that, everything else seemed about the same.

Love that place.

IIRC a couple of the long time staff got pretty sick with COVID a few months back.  That might have something to do with them being extra careful.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Great American Hero on Lemmon is closing. That really sucks but good for the owner as he's cashing out after 40 something years of being at that place. There was also one over by me off Garland Road near Goodfriend but it closed back in the 00s. 

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The Great American Hero on Lemmon is closing. That really sucks but good for the owner as he's cashing out after 40 something years of being at that place. There was also one over by me off Garland Road near Goodfriend but it closed back in the 00s. 

I don’t think he is cashing out. I think he is just shutting it down. The restaurant is for sale but there isn’t enough parking for the drive-through to get permitted and so I’d be surprised if he gets any takers (weird glitch in the zoning history).
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From the article on DMN, it seems money isn't an issue for him. He's 74 and can now get some time to enjoy all the money he's made. I'll miss it. We've been going there since we moved back to Dallas in 1998. Catered birthday parties with their subs. It's our own version of Thundercloud Subs. 

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From the article on DMN, it seems money isn't an issue for him. He's 74 and can now get some time to enjoy all the money he's made. I'll miss it. We've been going there since we moved back to Dallas in 1998. Catered birthday parties with their subs. It's our own version of Thundercloud Subs. 

Yep.
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12 hours ago, mdmost said:

The Great American Hero on Lemmon is closing. That really sucks but good for the owner as he's cashing out after 40 something years of being at that place. There was also one over by me off Garland Road near Goodfriend but it closed back in the 00s. 

Also known as retirement.

12 hours ago, DDD Dad said:

I don’t think he is cashing out. I think he is just shutting it down. The restaurant is for sale but there isn’t enough parking for the drive-through to get permitted and so I’d be surprised if he gets any takers (weird glitch in the zoning history).

Said on the ticket yesterday that he sold the real estate. Shutting down the restaurant because it’s too busy to keep up with and do it right.

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  • 2 months later...
On 7/18/2021 at 7:24 PM, HRSchenker said:

Made a visit to Shug's Bagels this Saturday. Egg sandwich on a plain bagel with cheddar cheese and a chicken cutlet. Totally worth the hype

Shug's was workshopped and pitched in an entrepreneurship class I was in at SMU. Kid had visions past that class apparently and figured he'd get an A out of it. Great class - one of the better ones I sat through at Cox. 

I'll have to stop by next time I'm in town and see whether he was full of shit or not.

Also - someone I know went by American Hero recently - so it's still open?

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6 minutes ago, ztejas said:

Shug's was workshopped and pitched in an entrepreneurship class I was in at SMU. Kid had visions past that class apparently and figured he'd get an A out of it. Great class - one of the better ones I sat through at Cox. 

I'll have to stop by next time I'm in town and see whether he was full of shit or not.

Also - someone I know went by American Hero recently - so it's still open?

Yeah, it's still open -- at least last week it was when I drove by there. Not sure when it's supposed to shut down.

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4 hours ago, ztejas said:

Shug's was workshopped and pitched in an entrepreneurship class I was in at SMU. Kid had visions past that class apparently and figured he'd get an A out of it. Great class - one of the better ones I sat through at Cox. 

I'll have to stop by next time I'm in town and see whether he was full of shit or not.

Carve out a few hours from your schedule then. Last time I decided to "stop by" to check it out (on a Sunday morning a few weeks ago), there was a line about 50 deep down the sidewalk that wasn't moving very fast. I called an audible at the line and didn't stick around. Maybe @HRSchenker can weigh in with some better first-hand experience though.

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The longest I've ever had to wait inside was around 10 minutes but I also get there really early (maybe it's just because I'm getting older but I don't have the patience anymore to wait in a line for food). If you order ahead you can just skip the line and pick up your food at a designated area. I've done that before through the toast app and just killed some time until my pickup time rolled around. The wait times around noon are always more than an hour, longest I've had via the app was 85 minutes. 

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2 hours ago, HRSchenker said:

maybe it's just because I'm getting older but I don't have the patience anymore to wait in a line for food

Yeah, me too...which is why I bailed out.

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If you order ahead you can just skip the line and pick up your food at a designated area. I've done that before through the toast app and just killed some time until my pickup time rolled around. The wait times around noon are always more than an hour, longest I've had via the app was 85 minutes.

I think when I tried to order for pickup it was around an hour and a half. I assumed that was a mistake with the app, so I just decided to go try my luck in person. Apparently not a mistake. Good to know you can skip the line for pickup when you get there, though. Next time I have a hankering, I'll try to think about it way ahead and do the pickup order thing. Thanks.

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Shug’s is definitely an order ahead place or go on a weekday. If I work from home on a Friday I’ll stop by around 8:15 and the line is never that bad. But I’d say 70% of the labor in the back is focused on to-go/pickup. 

Wait, people wait a long time for Shug’s? It’s a bagel place. I got a pretty good bagel sandwich from there once, the one with the chicken cutlet. It was good but nothing I’d stand in a long line for.
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