San Miguel de Allende

[Sbbruin 21825]

My wife really wants to go there, and has for some time.  I tend to be a coastal person, but she wants to go here, and her 50th is coming up.  Anyone ever been?  What is there to do?  Where to stay?  

[C-Man 27182]

1 hour ago, Sbbruin said:

My wife really wants to go there, and has for some time.  I tend to be a coastal person, but she wants to go here, and her 50th is coming up.  Anyone ever been?  What is there to do?  Where to stay?  

I've never been but have some friends that used to go a lot. Playground for artsy, rich fuckers. Sounds like Mexico's version of Santa Fe -- only on a grander scale.

[mycox 582]

A couple of my friends visited last November. They say it's a beautiful city. Bring your walking shoes and explore everything. Rooftop restaurants and bars everywhere with views of the sunset. Art everywhere.

It's about a out three and a half hours bus ride from CDMX - around $12. The bus from the airport isn't direct, so it's easier to to an Uber to the bus station in the city with the direct route.

[DFWTexEx 276]

It's beautiful and fun in a "day without agenda kinda way".  You wake up and start walking, find what will be your favorite coffee shop during your stay, keep walking, find galleries, stop for an awesome torta and beer, stop at the square and sit and watch the folks, find more art, go to rooftop deck of your place and pour yourself a drink on the honor system, get a massage on said deck, go to a nice dinner.  Another day, maybe a cooking class if you want to have a defined thing to do.  The gringo expat community has home tours to raise money for the local library.   Or go to see the historic sites around Guanajuato if you really need to have major activity.  It's been a few years since we were there, but when we went there was no real golf course, casino, or anything like that.   If you demand planned activities, it's probably not for you.

You can fly into Leon or Guanajuato and have a much shorter car ride.  The weather is very nice.  The comparison to Santa Fe is sorta valid, but San Miguel is authentic (the good and bad of that).  The center city has a historical designation from the government (and it's a UNESCO world heritage site). There no stop lights or lit commercial signs at all.   It makes Santa Fe look like a suburban mall with a theme. Certainly there are rich artsy types around, but also students from the city and eccentric ex pats.

[SimonBolivar 10957]

55 minutes ago, DFWTexEx said:

It's beautiful and fun in a "day without agenda kinda way".  You wake up and start walking, find what will be your favorite coffee shop during your stay, keep walking, find galleries, stop for an awesome torta and beer, stop at the square and sit and watch the folks, find more art, go to rooftop deck of your place and pour yourself a drink on the honor system, get a massage on said deck, go to a nice dinner.  Another day, maybe a cooking class if you want to have a defined thing to do.  The gringo expat community has home tours to raise money for the local library.   Or go to see the historic sites around Guanajuato if you really need to have major activity.  It's been a few years since we were there, but when we went there was no real golf course, casino, or anything like that.   If you demand planned activities, it's probably not for you.

You can fly into Leon or Guanajuato and have a much shorter car ride.  The weather is very nice.  The comparison to Santa Fe is sorta valid, but San Miguel is authentic (the good and bad of that).  The center city has a historical designation from the government (and it's a UNESCO world heritage site). There no stop lights or lit commercial signs at all.   It makes Santa Fe look like a suburban mall with a theme. Certainly there are rich artsy types around, but also students from the city and eccentric ex pats.

You can also fly into Queretaro instead of Leon if the price is right.

[Sbbruin 21825]

59 minutes ago, DFWTexEx said:

It's beautiful and fun in a "day without agenda kinda way".  You wake up and start walking, find what will be your favorite coffee shop during your stay, keep walking, find galleries, stop for an awesome torta and beer, stop at the square and sit and watch the folks, find more art, go to rooftop deck of your place and pour yourself a drink on the honor system, get a massage on said deck, go to a nice dinner.  Another day, maybe a cooking class if you want to have a defined thing to do.  The gringo expat community has home tours to raise money for the local library.   Or go to see the historic sites around Guanajuato if you really need to have major activity.  It's been a few years since we were there, but when we went there was no real golf course, casino, or anything like that.   If you demand planned activities, it's probably not for you.

You can fly into Leon or Guanajuato and have a much shorter car ride.  The weather is very nice.  The comparison to Santa Fe is sorta valid, but San Miguel is authentic (the good and bad of that).  The center city has a historical designation from the government (and it's a UNESCO world heritage site). There no stop lights or lit commercial signs at all.   It makes Santa Fe look like a suburban mall with a theme. Certainly there are rich artsy types around, but also students from the city and eccentric ex pats.

Yeah, that's about what I expected to hear.  And that's sounds OK by me.

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

You can stay in the outer area of town and uber to the center of the city for like 26 pesos. My wife kept tipping them like 15 pesos for the ride until she realized how much the whole ride was. Rooftop bar overlooking the cathedral was tits. Everything there is expensive for Mexico, but still cheap to gringos. Bernal is not far and has a lot of the same stuff plus a dike you can climb all over (extinct volcano with just the core left).

[PencilPusher 454]

If you do decide to go, make sure you make time to include Guanajuato in your intinerary. Probably about an hour and half drive from SMdA. Beautiful colonial city to spend a day rolling around. If you want to do the historical thing, do Guanajuato and drive back to SMdA via Delores Hidalgo where the original "grito" was uttered that sparked the 1810 revolucion. Also the Atotonilco sanctuary is on the road back from Delores Hidalgo which is a beautiful church adorned with many baroque murals (a UNESCO heritage site as well). Highly recommend the entire area for cuisine, art, etc. Agree that it is not high "action" per se, but there are some beautiful hikes in the area.

[Liquor and Poker 3659]

For good or bad, both times I went there the people walking around everywhere were all Americans.  Things were relatively expensive for Mexico and the art was as overpriced as it would be in NYC.  

But it’s a pretty place, very low key and calm   Food was pretty good.   Just don’t expect to be bombarded with things to do.  Great place to just rest and get away.  

My parents did it more recently and complained about the elevation and walking uphill a lot.  I noticed but didn’t think that much about it when I went in my 30s, but they were in their late 60s. So if anyone you’re going with has health issues it may be tough. 

[DFWTexEx 276]

14 hours ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

You can stay in the outer area of town and uber to the center of the city for like 26 pesos. My wife kept tipping them like 15 pesos for the ride until she realized how much the whole ride was. Rooftop bar overlooking the cathedral was tits. Everything there is expensive for Mexico, but still cheap to gringos. Bernal is not far and has a lot of the same stuff plus a dike you can climb all over (extinct volcano with just the core left).

Why would you want to do this?   Getting up in the historic city center, with the church bells and walking out to go get your coffee as the ladies sweep the streets and ending up on your rooftop terrace in town overlooking the churches is what this is all about (for me).  Could it be that much cheaper to be in a motel outside of town? Not being snarky; I don't know.  

 

Quote

You can also fly into Queretaro instead of Leon if the price is right.

Yes, that is what I meant to say.  I was mistaken when I said Guanajuato.  American flies to both Leon and Queretaro.

Edited January 30, 2019 by DFWTexEx

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

There some nicer hotels for less money further from the city center. We stayed at the Hotel Misión San Miguel de Allende and it was pretty nice. We also had a car with us because we were down there with the inlaws who have a place about an hour away, so we needed somewhere with parking. Most of the city center won't have good or easy parking. If you are going to bring or rent a car to explore surrounding areas it's something to look into. Of course the bus system in Mexico is pretty awesome so you could probably get away with hitting the most popular destinations from SMdA by taking the bus.

[PencilPusher 454]

Look into renting a house as well. We found a nice one about a 10 minute walk from the plaza. Can't remember the name of the place, but the guestbook kept saying to have the housekeeper make chicken verdes enchiladas. So we did and they were the best chicken verdes enchiladas we've ever had. Can't remember what we paid (supplies + labor), but whatever it was - completely worth it. My guess is you could find that staying in other houses as well. 

 

[kmac30 416]

Go do a tasting of Casa Dragones tequila. It was a great experience. Would highly recommend.

Buy a door knocker. Seems to be the thing there.

I wish I could remember all the great restaurants we ate at.

[Hollywood 342]

Stay here:

https://www.belmond.com/hotels/north-america/mexico/san-miguel-de-allende/belmond-casa-de-sierra-nevada/

 

Eat here:

La Pasodita (get a table on the roof top)

Lavanda Cafe (Breakfast)

The Restaurant 

 

[lonestarguido 21]

Bump...Headed there next week for our wedding anniversary.

Leaving a 3.5 year old and 9 month old at home so 3 days of leisurely eating drinking and wandering sound incredible.

Staying at the Rosewood and looking for a few lunch and dinner reqs and if anyone has done a cool cooking class/market tour.

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

Was just there a couple days ago. Uber rides were about 33 pesos. Taxis like 75. Uber drivers don't stick around late at night, so keep that in mind. You can withdraw money from the ATMs pretty easily so you don't have to carry a large sum of cash and risk losing it. Don't spend too terribly much time around the main plaza by the big church. It's pretty, but everything is overpriced. Do go to the Artisan Market. Do buy some nice Mezcal that isnt available in the US to bring back.

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

Also forgot earlier, the trip to Bernal is about an hour and 45 minutes away and is definitely worth it. I think I prefer to to San Miguel de Allende, but it's more of a local place than one where you typically see foreign tourists. Also, stuff is much cheaper there for all your wife's shopping. 

[LaunchPad 10]

Anyone been in August?

[achooloco 1067]

Going on Thursday for a day trip. We’re all Mexicans so should be interesting. I went when I was like 7 so essentially first time. Best place for some tequila? Wait casa dragones is from there?! Shit, I’ll have to stop by if my nephews/nieces let me get away for a smidge. 

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

There's a liquor store near the Parque Benito Juárez that has a good selection of nice Tequila, Mezcal, and Sotol. There is also a artisanal Tequila place right where the taxis and ubers let you off by the main cathedral. They have some pretty cool hand painted tequila glasses, but no mezcal or sotol. 

Lots of roof top bars with a nice view at night near the cathedral as well if you are looking to drink in a bar. Bring women with you, we went to one and left after sitting at a table for half an hour without seeing a waiter. They were visiting tables full of womenfolk plenty.

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

Cavalico was the liquor store. That area of town was much less expensive, so I would check it out if you have time.

[achooloco 1067]

Just got back, almost did a rooftop bar for dinner but it was 430pm and ballllllls hot. Did Pueblo Viejo instead which is nice. Didnt get to do casa dragones bc it looked like it was by reservation only, couldn’t just roll in off the street  (least looks that way on the website). That was meh, but we all had stomach issues so taking it easy drink wise was sadly, an acceptable state of affairs. 

Turns out we were meeting some cousins (I rolled with the gf, bro/wife/elementary age kids) who had kids around my niece’s ages so we just shot the shit and walked around from 1 to 430. Tons of tourists and lots of attractive women everywhere was my main take of the crowds. City is beautiful and seems like a good place to spend two Long days just walking around and seeing everything. Prices were super expensive for mex but yeah, cheap for tourists.  Evening time was lovely and the Victorian dressed actors seemed interesting but we didn’t have time to investigate. 

Sadly we left that evening hoping to beat sunset back to slp but no dice. The freeways are better than back in the 80s/90s but still, driving in Mexico can be stressful.

[Chopper 17228]

Living mostly in Santa Fe NM the last couple years there are quite a few people who travel between SF and San Miguel. Quite a few people over the years have left SF for SM to live as expats, or have houses in both places. Lately however the flow is trickling in the other direction. New SF residents we've met have told my wife and I that a cartel has moved into San Miguel. It's not anything a tourist would probably notice at this point, so I'm not saying don't travel there, just keep your eyes open and exercise the same caution you would in Mexico City or any other large city. Have specifically been told that business owners are being forced to participate in the drug trade (forced to sell drugs or pay extortion) and if they try to avoid it, well, they dead. When I say local businesses, this extends to even dentists and museums, as well as ordinary market vendors and bars. I wouldn't worry about traveling as a tourist but if you have it on a list of possible retirement destinations I'd take a wait and see attitude for sure. 

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4974]

Yeah, I did hear some grumblings about the cartels down there from the locals when I was there last spring.

[Chopper 17228]

Yeah pretty much...last year I heard people say we don't drive outside the city after dark. This year it's more like, the cartel is everywhere and our dentist was murdered because he refused extortion and so we're moving out.

[Kevin O’Shea 279]

Bumping this thread - sadly after the last post was about a cartel murder - going for a wedding.

Only two nights and our later afternoon/night activities revolve around the wedding.
 

Looking for Recs on lunch and breakfast spots. Also any daytime activities, tours to look into. Thanks.

[DFWTexEx 276]

I'll go backwards.  For the amount of your are there, don't do any tours.  San Miguel is a town where you walk around and let the day unfold.  Get up, go get coffee and wander around somewhat aimlessly, finding galleries, shops, little museums, whatever.  There is a walking guide that helps.  Find more coffee and pastries and then a boozy lunch and end up at your place, which should have a terrace, in time for drinks at sunset.  

Upscale full meal lunch in a spectacular setting:  Quince

Cocktail lunch with small plates with great view:  Luna Rooftop Tapas the Rosewood

Hole in the wall, locals favorite tortas near the Jardin: Torta Mundo

 

Not sure about sit down breakfasts because the places you stay usually offer you breakfast.  We stay at a B&B and the breakfast is fantastic.  No need to leave.

It's a great place to unplug.  We are planning another trip there in July when we will enjoy having to put on a sweater at night.

[dhornf 52]

Any sports bar recs to watch the Horns game?

[texasdago 7562]

I love colonial Mexican towns and would love to visit but heard it is super gringo land and is overrun with Americans 

[Tailgate 3021]

Headed there over the new year. Any recent visitors have some good recs for food etc? Looking forward to the trip. 

[DFWTexEx 276]

We try to go once a year, especially in the Texas summer when we have to pack light sweaters.  Don't let the "it's overrun with gringos" talk bother you.  Yes, there is an expat crowd, but SMA is still very much Mexico and Mexican and it's fantastic.  It's more overrun by pinche Chilangos.

Our favorites that we go back to regularly, are Atrio (prefer it to Quince for spectacular rooftop meal in the shadow of the Parroquia), the Restaurant, and Antonia.   We sometimes break things up with a steak meal at Tio Lucas, especially when there is live music.  Bovine was the new place we tried this last trip and it was excellent.  El Pegaso is still great for straight up Mexican food.  And, no trip for us is complete without a torta at Torta Mundo (milanesa de res o de pollo), a  hole in the wall on Umaran down from the Jardin.  A fun, guilty pleasure:  the churros at the bar at Casa Sierra Nevada.  The street food is cool, but you won't be disappointed by this upscale version.   And, Luna at the Rosemont is good when we are there with people who are in SMA for the first time.   The view is awesome and the upscale lunch is great.

This looks like a good list for a bunch of newish, foody places:  https://www.timeout.com/mexico-city/restaurants/best-restaurants-and-bars-in-san-miguel-de-allende

For non-food, get to the Fabrica La Aurora for sure.  You can spend a good bit of time there looking at and buying art and other design products.

[Tailgate 3021]

19 hours ago, DFWTexEx said:

We try to go once a year, especially in the Texas summer when we have to pack light sweaters.  Don't let the "it's overrun with gringos" talk bother you.  Yes, there is an expat crowd, but SMA is still very much Mexico and Mexican and it's fantastic.  It's more overrun by pinche Chilangos.

Our favorites that we go back to regularly, are Atrio (prefer it to Quince for spectacular rooftop meal in the shadow of the Parroquia), the Restaurant, and Antonia.   We sometimes break things up with a steak meal at Tio Lucas, especially when there is live music.  Bovine was the new place we tried this last trip and it was excellent.  El Pegaso is still great for straight up Mexican food.  And, no trip for us is complete without a torta at Torta Mundo (milanesa de res o de pollo), a  hole in the wall on Umaran down from the Jardin.  A fun, guilty pleasure:  the churros at the bar at Casa Sierra Nevada.  The street food is cool, but you won't be disappointed by this upscale version.   And, Luna at the Rosemont is good when we are there with people who are in SMA for the first time.   The view is awesome and the upscale lunch is great.

This looks like a good list for a bunch of newish, foody places:  https://www.timeout.com/mexico-city/restaurants/best-restaurants-and-bars-in-san-miguel-de-allende

For non-food, get to the Fabrica La Aurora for sure.  You can spend a good bit of time there looking at and buying art and other design products.

Thank you very much. Great suggestions!