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The Japan Thread


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  • 8 months later...
19 minutes ago, immamac said:

Can you give a high level itinerary? I wanna make a Japan trip in the next few years. 

This is what I have visited over the years...

 

Tokyo - 3 days is good enough but stay in the city near a subway line. Fly into HND as it is easier to commute. Narita is a bitch to train / bus into the city. If you fly in or out of Narita, find the hotels that the shuttle bus stops at as this will save lots of head ache. Tokyo is like NYC in that you can walk for days just exploring. The Roppogi and other “shady” areas like Shinjuku are perfectly safe and a must to go out for drinking. It may be shocking to people who aren’t used to seeing explicit adds for services but really isn’t that explicit as the online articles write. I might be desensitized to this though. 

Kyoto is my favorite city for a traditional Japanese experience. I’d suggest 2 days and stay in a ryokan. 

Nikko was a day trip for old Japan. Very cool and would suggest 3 nights in Kyoto with a day trip to nikko. 

Fukuyama - smaller regional city that was big enough to keep busy for 2 days

Nagasaki - historical and can be done in a day. Not a bad city but wish we did Hiroshima instead given the other small cities we visited  

Yakushima - we spent 5 days and it is a beautiful, tiny island that is solely focused on nature. Would recommend these small islands if you want rural, natural Japan with focus on outdoor activity. A short hike is 4 hours and not easily navigated. You aren’t going for food or upscale accommodation but nature. Absolutely stunning but exhausting 

I’m not big into Japan so 1 trip to the country would have been enough for me but as it happens this is my third time. 

We were looking at islands in the north instead of Yakushima but you can’t go wrong with any of them from a nature standpoint. They all are pain in the ass to travel to though 

Edited by happyfunball
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Forgot. I went to Osaka this trip. Great street food and fun town for 2 full days. While touristy bs, it is fun and has great food for way less than Tokyo 

to someone who has never been to Japan, I’d go toTokyo then fly to Kyoto with day trip to nikko and train to Osaka to finish 

Edited by happyfunball
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The first thing you need to do when you land in Tokyo is get cash and a suica metro card. Put 000 yen on the card and you are set for all of the trains and subways in Tokyo. Much easier than buying a ticket every time you want to ride.

Many places don't take credit cards. You need cash.

I spent four nights in Tokyo and still didn't get to see everything I wanted.

 

 

Edited by mycox
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You can use a credit card at the train stations, at least in Tokyo, as of this August. I never took out cash on my last trip to Tokyo and rode the trains everywhere. If the automated ticket machines aren't working (because you didn't setup a PIN), you can go wait in line and buy from the tellers.

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9 minutes ago, dieucla98 said:

You can use a credit card at the train stations, at least in Tokyo, as of this August. I never took out cash on my last trip to Tokyo and rode the trains everywhere. If the automated ticket machines aren't working (because you didn't setup a PIN), you can go wait in line and buy from the tellers.

I had a lot of issues with places accepting credit card and ability to withdraw cash. I'd suggest having cash in case.

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56 minutes ago, happyfunball said:

places accepting credit card and ability to withdraw cash. I'd suggest having cash in case.

This..Don't assume they take credit cards.  I got in late to Tokyo and was staying in a business district.  The hotel restaurant has closed so I walked a few blocks found a noodles shop. Ordered a beer and some noodles and then discovered they dont take credit cards and the first ATM I tried didn't work.   Apologized profusely and then tried another ATM with no luck.  finally found some Italian restaurant that took credit cards and was about to close.

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I was in Tokyo 2 weeks ago. Normal ticket machines at train stations will be cash only for purchasing a ticket or recharging metro card.  You can most likely use a credit card at the ticket office, but they are only available a the a few main stations like Tokyo Shinjuku Stations. Do yourself a favor and have cash.

Found this link
https://matcha-jp.com/en/5919

 

Edited by mycox
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  • 4 months later...

Any other itinerary thoughts for a 10 day trip? I'm planning a fall trip and am thinking 2 nights Tokyo, 4 nights Kyoto (including day trips), 2 nights Osaka, and 2 final nights Tokyo to fly out. I know there are a lot of other great cities to visit, but I don't want to be constantly traveling on this trip.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just got back from two weeks in Tokyo after a 5 year absence. Good Lord....the city has experienced some serious changes since I lived there from 1997 to 2006.

First of all, tourism has SKYROCKETED! There are gaijin all throughout Shinjuku and Shibuya. When I lived in Tokyo, you could pretty much go to any neighborhood in Kanto (except for Roppongi) and not see gaijin. Seriously, I could go 4 days without seeing a white/black face.

Case in point, the Golden Gai district near Kabukicho. Back in the day, you could stroll through this area at night and only see Japanese people. Went there last week and EVERY PERSON I saw walking around were tourists. Really kind of sad. Tourism is really having an impact on Japan.

Went into a kaiten sushi place in Shibuya, a place I used to go on occasion twenty years ago. Went in last week twice, every person in the place was foreign. Might as well been in California. At the check out, the sign read '4 Stars on Trip Advisor'. Ugh.

So, my recommendation for newer travelers to Japan: try to NOT go where your guide book recommends. Only briefly visit the touristy places and then try quiet, off the path neighborhoods. Roll out to Kanagawa or Izu or someplace and escape the tourists.  

Edited by Sweetnsourpoke
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54 minutes ago, Sweetnsourpoke said:

Just got back from two weeks in Tokyo after a 5 year absence. Good Lord....the city has experienced some serious changes since I lived there from 1997 to 2006.

First of all, tourism has SKYROCKETED! There are gaijin all throughout Shinjuku and Shibuya. When I lived in Tokyo, you could pretty much go to any neighborhood in Kanto (except for Roppongi) and not see gaijin. Seriously, I could go 4 days without seeing a white/black face.

Case in point, the Golden Gai district near Kabukicho. Back in the day, you could stroll through this area at night and only see Japanese people. Went there last week and EVERY PERSON I saw walking around were tourists. Really kind of sad. Tourism is really having an impact on Japan.

Went into a kaiten sushi place in Shibuya, a place I used to go on occasion twenty years ago. Went in last week twice, every person in the place was foreign. Might as well been in California. At the check out, the sign read '4 Stars on Trip Advisor'. Ugh.

So, my recommendation for newer travelers to Japan: try to NOT go where your guide book recommends. Only briefly visit the touristy places and then try quiet, off the path neighborhoods. Roll out to Kanagawa or Izu or someplace and escape the tourists.  

wery racist.

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Will bookmark this thread. We asked our 8-year-old son where he wanted to go for his first international vacation, and he said Japan, which is out of both my and Mrs. South Austin’s comfort zone.  When our daughter was his age we took her to London, which is a piece of cake.  Probably won’t be until Summer of 2020, but this thread has great information.

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2 hours ago, hornbri said:

I was there a couple weeks ago, I love the country. You could easily spend a week in just Tokyo with everything to see, for food Osaka is a great place. For a first trip I might just start with those two. 

Thinking those two and Kyoto with a day trip to Hakone. 

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22 minutes ago, Larry T. Spider said:

How hard is the language barrier? 

I am sure everyone will have had a different experience...

For me in a Major city like Tokyo or Osaka, not an issue at all. Plenty of people speak English and you see a ton of signs in English. 

When you do face the language barrier most of the people I felt with were super friendly and we did our best to come to understand each other. It all works out but you will need to slow down a little, people will work with you. 

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1 hour ago, Larry T. Spider said:

How hard is the language barrier? 

I found very little English other than with hotel staff.   Uber drivers, taxis, negative.   I did manage to make my way around despite that fact.

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1 hour ago, hornbri said:

I am sure everyone will have had a different experience...

For me in a Major city like Tokyo or Osaka, not an issue at all. Plenty of people speak English and you see a ton of signs in English. 

When you do face the language barrier most of the people I felt with were super friendly and we did our best to come to understand each other. It all works out but you will need to slow down a little, people will work with you. 

yeap.  much lower than if you were traveling through western europe.  but the difference is people atleast try

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Just now, CooterBrown said:


Start with this one:

“I’ll suck your cock for a thousand dollars.”

You could potentially pay off your trip if you’re as industrious as your mom.

Unfortunately her talent skips generations.  I'll stick with Fist Full of Yen from Kentucky Fried Movie.  "You have our gratitude."

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In my opinion, Japan has become easier for tourists than in the past. Tourism is BOOMING.

For example, money exchange places are all over the place. Saw numerous places in Akihabera, Shinjuku, Shibuya, etc. Not long ago, you had to go to the bank to exchange currency.

Service industry jobs like 7-11 and McDonald's have started hiring foreign cashiers. This was unheard of ten years ago. Actually had a nice chat with a Family Mart cashier from Nepal a few days ago. Weird to have a conversation in English with a convenience store employee. One small 7-11 near Wasada University actually had a couple of American college girls working in there.

Also, the lady who owned the Airbnb apartment I used had a device that was just for audio translation. Pretty nifty gadget. Translated really quickly and accurately. Saw a few people using those. Great invention.

 

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My buddy that used to go a lot for work sent me this when I told him I was going. May be helpful to others planning a trip.

 
I did almost the exact same itinerary back in 2014 the last time I visited, it works really well.   You might want to google anything that seems interesting in case things have changed.  Let me know if you have any questions!  I've spent ~6 months total in Japan and I love that place so much, can talk endlessly about it.
 
Tokyo
so much to do here, but these are some of my favorites...
-if you are there on a sunday (or maybe saturday?) go walk around Harajuku and gawk at the weirdos
-shibuya street crossing, the iconic business shot of the city.  you can get a good view from the starbucks upstairs.  visit the Hachiko statue outside of the station and read about that dog. 
-have a chirashi bowl for breakfast at the mother teet of sushi Tsukiji market
-Asakusa shrine is a nice temple stop, but nothing special once you've visited Kyoto.  Decent souvineer shopping in the area (which is suprisingly hard in the city, I usually got stuff either there or the airport).  Sushi magnets were always a hit 
-my favorite day trip (or even half day) is visiting the giant buddha at Kamakura.  There are also some great temples to wander through, its on the coast about an hour from the city by train. 
-try at least one ramen restaurant where you order by vending machine.  My favorites were under Shinagawa station or down some dark stairs a few blocks away from Shibuya station
-On a busy sidewalk, turn around, point, and yell godzirra!  They love that shit.
 
Akihabara is a great place to experience culture in Tokyo, its the epicenter of Japan's high tech weirdness. I always liked wandering the modern multi-level electronic super stores, post WWII era market stalls, and crazy anime/manga shops.
 
Hiroshima
If I remember correctly, you dont need that much time there.  2-3 days is plenty (including the below day trip)
-Eat their style Okonomiyaki pancakes, helps with the slight american guilt after visiting the memorial/museum. 
-Day trip to Miyajima island if you can, it's one of my favorite places in all of Japan (or world?).  Its a charming island you hike around, visit forest shrouded temples, meditate with monks, and gaze at their floating tori gates.
 
Kyoto
So much to do here, endless temples.  But a few things that always stood out to me
-Stay at a Ryoken (traditional hotel).  Absolutely must do.
-Have at least one Kaiseki (traditional multi-course meal) in Kyoto.  They are pricey but so worth it
-Visit Fushimi Inari shrine, magical place.  Fun fact, it’s what inspired the Nintendo game Starfox. 
-Day trip (or stay a night) in Nara, the original capital.  Absolutly gorgeous old temples, large buddha, and the famous bowing deer (buy some crackers to feed them).  A few times a month their cultural center used to dress up foreigners as geishi/samari and perform a tea ceremony, worth checking if they still do and time your visit if possible.  It's a wonderful cultural exchange moment with elderly people from the city and its free.
 
If possible, try to visit a traditional onsen (hot springs).  My favorite is near a town called Yudanaka, where you can hop between many onsens and also visit the snow monkeys taking a dip.  It's outside Nagano (reachable by train from Tokyo), maybe a bit much for this trip but I did all of the above itinerary plus Yudanaka in 10 days
 
If you are interested in visiting an easier onsen, Lake Kawaguchi overlooking Mt. Fuji is a convenient stop between Tokyo and Kyoto.  I've never been but have heard good things. 

 

Edited by 4th&Five
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Just did this trip as part of a 3 month Asia trip from Feb-April. 

People have covered Tokyo (lived in Seoul for 5 years and it has a very similar vibe) but I'd also really recommend Sapporo as part of a larger trip. Hokkaido has the best snow on earth during the winter and has plenty of nature/fishing during the spring/summer.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok, seriously thinking of heading there during the olympics next year. 

Anyone doing the same? I know I’m likely late to planning.,.but what areas would you stay in if you had two weeks? I have to see Tokyo- beyond that not sure. Will want to catch an Olympic game and/something related.

I have been to Asia, China specifically, a few times and really liked it...I’m sure this will be different and need to go see it.

Appreciate any thoughts. Sorry if I’m late to thread and missed a whole post answering the above.

EDIT- any good travel agent recs that could make easier than searching web for hours...which is normal anyway?

Edited by Tailgate
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  • 4 months later...
14 minutes ago, 4th&Five said:

Starting to book rooms for our March trip. We have an open night between Kyoto and Hiroshima. Where would y’all stay for a night between the two? Osaka? Kobe? Other?

We're taking our first trip next year so I've been using japan-guide as a resource. Their itinerary recommends an overnight stay on Miyajima island, near Hiroshima. The torii gate is closed off for renovations but it still seems like a cool place to visit.

https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3401.html

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4 hours ago, 4th&Five said:

Starting to book rooms for our March trip. We have an open night between Kyoto and Hiroshima. Where would y’all stay for a night between the two? Osaka? Kobe? Other?

I missed Osaka, but enjoyed Kobe for a couple of days.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not sure how much time you have in Kansai but one interesting option in the region is Mt. Koya in Wakayama Prefecture. It's not far from Osaka.

They have a thousand year old cemetery up there, fantastic for hikers and photo buffs. You stay with the monks in the various monasteries and participate in morning prayer. I was in Japan for ten years and it was one of the most memorable weekends I had over there.

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