Auto Detailing / Car Care

[TXLNGHRN10 341]

What do the Pros and Surls use when washing, waxing, scratch removal etc of car care
Now that I've got a new truck and it's time to wash all the pollen and road grime off, I'm wanting to revamp my detailing supplies
I've always been a meguiar's guy, used some 3m perfect it II and a harbor freight variable speed orbital buffer

Thought it'd be nice to share any tips or tricks when cleaning our fine rides

[52-80 19183]

i use a Nilfisk pressure washer.  it was that or Karcher but Nilfisk has better parts so i went with that and holy fuck its nic

 

water spray.  then spray with auto shampoo (whatever the fuck brand), and wipe that down.

then claybar using Chemical Guys lubricant + bar kit.  internet says its good.  guess its okay.  clay is more pliable than the chinese kit i bought from aliexpress.

then wax using collinite #845.  again internet says its good.  very easy to apply and easy to use.

 

all in all it doesnt take that long.  looks good.  if i used a buffer on the wax itll probably get a mirror shine, but i do it by hand and its good enough.

 

[dirtonia 269]

Pay someone else to do it, dats how I roll.

[Spur08 382]

Foam cannon is worth it.  I like a mix of Meguire's and Car Guys.  The Meguire's fast finish is legit

[Leamas 29]

I use different products at different stages and on different sections of the car. I've been washing and detailing cars for myself (mostly Hondas) and family members (also Hondas, but also a 5 series, an A4, an S5, and a Panamera) for around 9 years. I've modified what I've done by watching youtube and reading best practices on general car care and detailing-specific forums. Generally, I detail the interior of the car on one day (2-3 hours) and then tackle the exterior on another day (4 hours for a full detail every 3-4 months and brief 1.5-hour cleans every 4-6 weeks). I take my time and try to enjoy the process because I treat it as a hobby. Like most hobbies, it can be as expensive and time-consuming as I want it to be. Specialized tools and products make the work go faster and might improve the final results to some degree of noticeability, but they cost more and you certainly can get by with "generic" products. Short summaries of what I do are below.

Stages

1. Interior: vacuum, plastic and vinyl clean, leather seat clean, vacuum again, and windows clean.
2. Exterior: wheels and tires clean, rinse, pre-soak, rinse, contact wash, rinse, contact dry, clay, rinse, wax, and finishing touches.

Products List

       1. Interior:

• Plastic and vinyl cleaner: Meguiars D10101 Detailer All Purpose Cleaner diluted at 4:1
• Leather seats cleaner: Chemical Guys SPI_103_16 Sprayable Leather Cleaner and Conditioner in One
• Brush (seats): Chemical Guys Acc_S95 brush
• Brush (everywhere else): Vinyl & Leather Scrub Brush and Detail Factory blue brush
• Detailer: Meguiars D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax (despite the name, I use it as a detailer and not a wax)

       2. For wheels:

• Cleaner: Meguiars D14301 diluted to 4:1 or 2:1 depending on the amount of filth
• Inner wheel barrel: EZ Detail Brush Big
• Face and spokes: Chemical Guys Acc_G09 short handle brush
• Lug nuts: Detail Factory orange brush
• Tire dressing: Meguiars D17001 Hyper Dressing diluted to 3:1 and a Meguiars foam applicator

       3. For the rest of the exterior:

• Rinse: Ryobi 1600 psi electric pressure washer
• Foam cannon: Dusichin foam cannon
• Shampoo: Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash
• Mitt: Meguiars Microfiber Wash Mitt (2)
• Detailing Brush: Detail Factory orange brush
• Clay: Meguiars Mirror Glaze Detailing Clay (Mild) C2000
• Pre-wax: Dodo Juice Lime Prime Pre-Wax
• Wax: Meguiars G6107 white wax paste for my white car and Meguiars M2611 Mirror Glaze for cars of other colors
• Quick Wax Spray: Meguiars G17516 Ultimate Quik Wax

Comments

For a long time, I used a garden hose when I washed at home and that worked fine. But my flow rate would be tied to what's available from the tap, which delivered water from a city-owned water supply through the water main at ~40-60 psi. The pressure washer is more efficient and saves on water consumption. The Ryobi uses 1.2 gallons per minute, which is close to what I would get using a low-pressure spray gun at the local self-service bay. The typical flow rate from my garden hose uses 20 gallons per minute. The greater your water pressure, the faster and more effective it'll be at blasting stuff off the car without your need to touch it.

Cleaning the wheels takes time. Do it first to get it out of the way and to let the subsequent rinses remove any brake rust that gets on the car. Dress the tires at the end, if you want.

The pre-soak is important to minimize swirls and marring that happen later on from all the times you have to wipe or buff the paint. I've used various foam cannons and this one has had acceptable results. I spray the foam from bottom to top because you want each panel to get a spread of clean soap. I rinse from top to bottom because you want the dirt to flow off the car. Sometimes, you're going to get swirls no matter how careful you were. If swirls appear, I use a pre-wax to fill in the swirls before I use the wax paste or spray. The pre-waxing and waxing take up a lot of time. I only apply the paste once every 3 months or so and I use the faster spray in-between. I have found no solution for the swirls on my gloss piano-black pillars.

For the contact wash, I use two buckets: one for rinsing equipment and mitts and one for soap and water. I put a grid guard in each. I use one wash mitt for the top half of the car and a second mitt for the filthier lower half. Sometimes I use a sponge for bugs, fallout, or thick traffic film. I dip the brushes and mitts in shampoo before I make contact with the car to help agitate every little bit of dirt. I use the small detail brushes on and around emblems, badges, trim pieces, headlights, and small crevices (like vents). I have a brush for each part of the car, so I don't accidentally mix and cross contaminate them.

I use a lot of towels. They come in so many brands that I don't remember which ones are good, but it probably doesn't matter so long as they are microfiber and you clean them after each wash. Also, I use different towels for the wheels, windows, seats, dash, and to buff off wax and other products, so it'd help to designate colored towels for different jobs.

I haven't used a blower to dry. I plan ahead and sometimes take off a work day just to wash my car. I've never detailed the engine bay but would imagine it's not much different than a brush/spray job.

[Horn of Gabriel 1620]

7 hours ago, Leamas said:

I use different products at different stages and on different sections of the car. I've been washing and detailing cars for myself (mostly Hondas) and family members (also Hondas, but also a 5 series, an A4, an S5, and a Panamera) for around 9 years. I've modified what I've done by watching youtube and reading best practices on general car care and detailing-specific forums. Generally, I detail the interior of the car on one day (2-3 hours) and then tackle the exterior on another day (4 hours for a full detail every 3-4 months and brief 1.5-hour cleans every 4-6 weeks). I take my time and try to enjoy the process because I treat it as a hobby. Like most hobbies, it can be as expensive and time-consuming as I want it to be. Specialized tools and products make the work go faster and might improve the final results to some degree of noticeability, but they cost more and you certainly can get by with "generic" products. Short summaries of what I do are below.

Stages

1. Interior: vacuum, plastic and vinyl clean, leather seat clean, vacuum again, and windows clean.
2. Exterior: wheels and tires clean, rinse, pre-soak, rinse, contact wash, rinse, contact dry, clay, rinse, wax, and finishing touches.

Products List

       1. Interior:

• Plastic and vinyl cleaner: Meguiars D10101 Detailer All Purpose Cleaner diluted at 4:1
• Leather seats cleaner: Chemical Guys SPI_103_16 Sprayable Leather Cleaner and Conditioner in One
• Brush (seats): Chemical Guys Acc_S95 brush
• Brush (everywhere else): Vinyl & Leather Scrub Brush and Detail Factory blue brush
• Detailer: Meguiars D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax (despite the name, I use it as a detailer and not a wax)

       2. For wheels:

• Cleaner: Meguiars D14301 diluted to 4:1 or 2:1 depending on the amount of filth
• Inner wheel barrel: EZ Detail Brush Big
• Face and spokes: Chemical Guys Acc_G09 short handle brush
• Lug nuts: Detail Factory orange brush
• Tire dressing: Meguiars D17001 Hyper Dressing diluted to 3:1 and a Meguiars foam applicator

       3. For the rest of the exterior:

• Rinse: Ryobi 1600 psi electric pressure washer
• Foam cannon: Dusichin foam cannon
• Shampoo: Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash
• Mitt: Meguiars Microfiber Wash Mitt (2)
• Detailing Brush: Detail Factory orange brush
• Clay: Meguiars Mirror Glaze Detailing Clay (Mild) C2000
• Pre-wax: Dodo Juice Lime Prime Pre-Wax
• Wax: Meguiars G6107 white wax paste for my white car and Meguiars M2611 Mirror Glaze for cars of other colors
• Quick Wax Spray: Meguiars G17516 Ultimate Quik Wax

Comments

For a long time, I used a garden hose when I washed at home and that worked fine. But my flow rate would be tied to what's available from the tap, which delivered water from a city-owned water supply through the water main at ~40-60 psi. The pressure washer is more efficient and saves on water consumption. The Ryobi uses 1.2 gallons per minute, which is close to what I would get using a low-pressure spray gun at the local self-service bay. The typical flow rate from my garden hose uses 20 gallons per minute. The greater your water pressure, the faster and more effective it'll be at blasting stuff off the car without your need to touch it.

 Cleaning the wheels takes time. Do it first to get it out of the way and to let the subsequent rinses remove any brake rust that gets on the car. Dress the tires at the end, if you want.

The pre-soak is important to minimize swirls and marring that happen later on from all the times you have to wipe or buff the paint. I've used various foam cannons and this one has had acceptable results. I spray the foam from bottom to top because you want each panel to get a spread of clean soap. I rinse from top to bottom because you want the dirt to flow off the car. Sometimes, you're going to get swirls no matter how careful you were. If swirls appear, I use a pre-wax to fill in the swirls before I use the wax paste or spray. The pre-waxing and waxing take up a lot of time. I only apply the paste once every 3 months or so and I use the faster spray in-between. I have found no solution for the swirls on my gloss piano-black pillars.

For the contact wash, I use two buckets: one for rinsing equipment and mitts and one for soap and water. I put a grid guard in each. I use one wash mitt for the top half of the car and a second mitt for the filthier lower half. Sometimes I use a sponge for bugs, fallout, or thick traffic film. I dip the brushes and mitts in shampoo before I make contact with the car to help agitate every little bit of dirt. I use the small detail brushes on and around emblems, badges, trim pieces, headlights, and small crevices (like vents). I have a brush for each part of the car, so I don't accidentally mix and cross contaminate them.

I use a lot of towels. They come in so many brands that I don't remember which ones are good, but it probably doesn't matter so long as they are microfiber and you clean them after each wash. Also, I use different towels for the wheels, windows, seats, dash, and to buff off wax and other products, so it'd help to designate colored towels for different jobs.

I haven't used a blower to dry. I plan ahead and sometimes take off a work day just to wash my car. I've never detailed the engine bay but would imagine it's not much different than a brush/spray job.

Holy shit.  Followed.

[52-80 19183]

Listen to this guy - he's pre-wash

[Spur08 382]

Pretty good write-up.  Who are you following on Youtube?

 

I like Pan the Organizer and Dallas Paint Correction (on x2 speed, b/c he fumbles around a lot).  Carguys videos are ok but they're moreso just to pimp-out their stuff

[texas08 1599]

Damn

[William_Cannon 86]

Meguiars DA orbital buffer FTW. wax faster than wash and dry.

[kmac30 416]

Can you take a pic of all you gear?

[Leamas 29]

11 hours ago, Spur08 said:

Pretty good write-up.  Who are you following on Youtube?

 

I like Pan the Organizer and Dallas Paint Correction (on x2 speed, b/c he fumbles around a lot).  Carguys videos are ok but they're moreso just to pimp-out their stuff

I like Pan, White Details, Car Cleaning Guru, and several others. They are thorough and present the information well. It just sucks I can't get some of the products used in Europe or Australia, like Auto Smart Red 7. Pan reviewed the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax a couple of times and made me consider switching from the Quik Wax. I don't watch DPC regularly because they don't put enough effort into the videos. Their 13-minute Iron X video has Scott repeating one thought 10X on a shitty camera phone it seems.

Quote

Can you take a pic of all you gear?

I have a lot of stuff. Maybe I'll take a photo of it all next time I do a full detail. There are maybe 2-3X more items not on the list, including things I haven't used in a while or that someone lent me and I never tried. I also didn't list the glass care stuff and other miscellaneous paint correction products.

[luke duke 6413]

I wash my car every 5-6 years whether it needs it or not.

[TXLNGHRN10 341]

With the plethora of products out there, it gets really confusing on what to use and when.
I was looking at Chemical Guys and same for Meguiar's, there are umpteen different types of car washes, waxes, polishes and combos of the sort. It's hard to know what you actually really need
Any input on what one should use and when and what is just marketing BS?

[Francisco 2.0 32395]

I ran my own detailing service on the side years ago.  Then I got lazy.

 

Waxes:  I used The Wax Shop liquid glaze for years.  Still a fan; goes on easy enough and comes off without residue.  The Wax Shop folded, and the Wax Depot took over.  They renamed their product, but I've not used it in 3 or 4 years:

https://www.waxdepot.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=BAhttps://www.waxdepot.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=BA

Zymol makes great waxes, but the application and removal can be a multi-step process.  Their stuff smells great, however.

One step sprayers-quick detailing:  I dig the Lucas Oil line

https://lucasoil.com/products/appearance-products/slick-mist-speed-wax

https://lucasoil.com/products/appearance-products/slick-mist-interior-detailer

Tire cleaning/wheels:  Whatever suits you.

Engines:  Don't clean them when they are hot.  Other than that, they are pretty easy.  Use Gunk engine foaming cleaner, and spray that shit everywhere.  Let it soak for 10 minutes or so.  No need for a pressure washer, just hose down the residue.  Repeat as necessary.  If your engine is really, really gross, you might want to rent a kerosene steam cleaner. 

Glass:  A great thing to use to get rid of the grime that builds up on the inside of glass is a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.  Outside glass, I like the Rain-X spray.  Not only is it a good window cleaner, but it also applies Rain-X properties to the glass.

Lots of bugs and shit all over the front end:  Yeah, it happens.  A shortcut:  spray it all with WD-40, then let it soak for an hour or so.  Then come back and wash the car.  For really nasty road oil, grease, whatnot, this stuff works wonders:    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/?N=5002385+8709313+8710711+8711413+3293242391&rt=rud

 

Griot's Garage is a great place for anything detailing related.  Careful, you can blow a wad of cash easily.

 

 

 

 

 

[Spur08 382]

8 hours ago, Francisco 2.0 said:

 

Lots of bugs and shit all over the front end:  Yeah, it happens.  A shortcut:  spray it all with WD-40, then let it soak for an hour or so.  Then come back and wash the car. 

 

 

 

 

I've heard of this technique but also read that WD-40 can "soften" the paint which can lead to marring if there is any physical touching of the car.  Obviously, I don't think that would be an issue if you're doing contactless wash right after.

[Steel Shank 9428]

On 4/13/2019 at 1:45 PM, Leamas said:

I use different products at different stages and on different sections of the car. I've been washing and detailing cars for myself (mostly Hondas) and family members (also Hondas, but also a 5 series, an A4, an S5, and a Panamera) for around 9 years. I've modified what I've done by watching youtube and reading best practices on general car care and detailing-specific forums. Generally, I detail the interior of the car on one day (2-3 hours) and then tackle the exterior on another day (4 hours for a full detail every 3-4 months and brief 1.5-hour cleans every 4-6 weeks). I take my time and try to enjoy the process because I treat it as a hobby. Like most hobbies, it can be as expensive and time-consuming as I want it to be. Specialized tools and products make the work go faster and might improve the final results to some degree of noticeability, but they cost more and you certainly can get by with "generic" products. Short summaries of what I do are below.

Stages

1. Interior: vacuum, plastic and vinyl clean, leather seat clean, vacuum again, and windows clean.
2. Exterior: wheels and tires clean, rinse, pre-soak, rinse, contact wash, rinse, contact dry, clay, rinse, wax, and finishing touches.

Products List

       1. Interior:

• Plastic and vinyl cleaner: Meguiars D10101 Detailer All Purpose Cleaner diluted at 4:1
• Leather seats cleaner: Chemical Guys SPI_103_16 Sprayable Leather Cleaner and Conditioner in One
• Brush (seats): Chemical Guys Acc_S95 brush
• Brush (everywhere else): Vinyl & Leather Scrub Brush and Detail Factory blue brush
• Detailer: Meguiars D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax (despite the name, I use it as a detailer and not a wax)

       2. For wheels:

• Cleaner: Meguiars D14301 diluted to 4:1 or 2:1 depending on the amount of filth
• Inner wheel barrel: EZ Detail Brush Big
• Face and spokes: Chemical Guys Acc_G09 short handle brush
• Lug nuts: Detail Factory orange brush
• Tire dressing: Meguiars D17001 Hyper Dressing diluted to 3:1 and a Meguiars foam applicator

       3. For the rest of the exterior:

• Rinse: Ryobi 1600 psi electric pressure washer
• Foam cannon: Dusichin foam cannon
• Shampoo: Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash
• Mitt: Meguiars Microfiber Wash Mitt (2)
• Detailing Brush: Detail Factory orange brush
• Clay: Meguiars Mirror Glaze Detailing Clay (Mild) C2000
• Pre-wax: Dodo Juice Lime Prime Pre-Wax
• Wax: Meguiars G6107 white wax paste for my white car and Meguiars M2611 Mirror Glaze for cars of other colors
• Quick Wax Spray: Meguiars G17516 Ultimate Quik Wax

Comments

For a long time, I used a garden hose when I washed at home and that worked fine. But my flow rate would be tied to what's available from the tap, which delivered water from a city-owned water supply through the water main at ~40-60 psi. The pressure washer is more efficient and saves on water consumption. The Ryobi uses 1.2 gallons per minute, which is close to what I would get using a low-pressure spray gun at the local self-service bay. The typical flow rate from my garden hose uses 20 gallons per minute. The greater your water pressure, the faster and more effective it'll be at blasting stuff off the car without your need to touch it.

Cleaning the wheels takes time. Do it first to get it out of the way and to let the subsequent rinses remove any brake rust that gets on the car. Dress the tires at the end, if you want.

The pre-soak is important to minimize swirls and marring that happen later on from all the times you have to wipe or buff the paint. I've used various foam cannons and this one has had acceptable results. I spray the foam from bottom to top because you want each panel to get a spread of clean soap. I rinse from top to bottom because you want the dirt to flow off the car. Sometimes, you're going to get swirls no matter how careful you were. If swirls appear, I use a pre-wax to fill in the swirls before I use the wax paste or spray. The pre-waxing and waxing take up a lot of time. I only apply the paste once every 3 months or so and I use the faster spray in-between. I have found no solution for the swirls on my gloss piano-black pillars.

For the contact wash, I use two buckets: one for rinsing equipment and mitts and one for soap and water. I put a grid guard in each. I use one wash mitt for the top half of the car and a second mitt for the filthier lower half. Sometimes I use a sponge for bugs, fallout, or thick traffic film. I dip the brushes and mitts in shampoo before I make contact with the car to help agitate every little bit of dirt. I use the small detail brushes on and around emblems, badges, trim pieces, headlights, and small crevices (like vents). I have a brush for each part of the car, so I don't accidentally mix and cross contaminate them.

I use a lot of towels. They come in so many brands that I don't remember which ones are good, but it probably doesn't matter so long as they are microfiber and you clean them after each wash. Also, I use different towels for the wheels, windows, seats, dash, and to buff off wax and other products, so it'd help to designate colored towels for different jobs.

I haven't used a blower to dry. I plan ahead and sometimes take off a work day just to wash my car. I've never detailed the engine bay but would imagine it's not much different than a brush/spray job.

You need to lighten the fuck up.

[Francisco 2.0 32395]

9 hours ago, Spur08 said:

I've heard of this technique but also read that WD-40 can "soften" the paint which can lead to marring if there is any physical touching of the car.  Obviously, I don't think that would be an issue if you're doing contactless wash right after.

My dad has owned an auto body shop since '65 (I probably should have followed his footsteps, but that's another story).  It won't hurt paint.

New paint that wasn't baked on (non factory paint, paint applied at a body shop that doesn't have an oven, etc)?  Sure, it could hurt it.  But once the paint has cured for 30 days, you are good to go.

High school friend of mine does asphalt work.  He uses straight kerosene after a job to remove all the asphalt residue from his equipment, his truck, etc.  The only harming to paint was the gravel within the asphalt itself.

[Seasick Sailor 3747]

I use Adam's Polishes products and have been very happy with them. They also have a forum where you can discuss all aspects of detailing: http://www.adamsforums.com/

[52-80 19183]

On 4/17/2019 at 4:11 AM, Steel Shank said:

You need to lighten the fuck up.

I believe in taking care of myself and a balanced diet and rigorous exercise routine. In the morning if my face is a little puffy I'll put on an ice pack while doing stomach crunches. I can do 1000 now. After I remove the ice pack I use a deep pore cleanser lotion. In the shower I use a water activated gel cleanser, then a honey almond body scrub, and on the face an exfoliating gel scrub. Then I apply an herb-mint facial mask which I leave on for 10 minutes while I prepare the rest of my routine. I always use an after shave lotion with little or no alcohol, because alcohol dries your face out and makes you look older. Then moisturizer, then an anti-aging eye balm followed by a final moisturizing protective lotion.

[Spur08 382]

Washed the wife's car today. First picture is products used.

 

Washed w/ Chemical Guys Snow Foam Honeydew....smells awesome by the way

Iron X over the wheels

Clayed with Wolfgang rinseless wash (0.25 oz in distilled water spray bottle)

Wheels -- Mean Green degreaser w/ the Meguires Hot Shine (not a huge fan)

Minor paint correction w/ Chemical Guys VSS with orange pad

Buffed on/off Ultimate Fast Finish sealant

Mother's Back to Black trim dressing (not a fan)

Vacuumed car

Armor All Glass Cleaner

Armor All FreshFX

 

Looks pretty damn good.  Maybe I'll get a beej.

 

Probably not

 

 

Edited April 21, 2019 by Spur08

[TXLNGHRN10 341]

What is all the hype around foam/ Foam cannons? You still have to use soap and water in a bucket to wash it

[Spur08 382]

5 hours ago, TXLNGHRN10 said:

What is all the hype around foam/ Foam cannons? You still have to use soap and water in a bucket to wash it

The more foam in you have, the easier it is for dirt, dust, etc, to get suspended and then wash away, which is great if you're doing a contactless maintenance wash.  If you're doing a contact wash, it decreases the amount of stuff that can be an abrasive while wiping the vehicle.

[pops 7004]

On 4/17/2019 at 6:45 AM, Seasick Sailor said:

I use Adam's Polishes products and have been very happy with them. They also have a forum where you can discuss all aspects of detailing: http://www.adamsforums.com/

1234

Started using their stuff this year based on a recommendation from a friend. 

Had always used meguiars professional stuff because it's easy to get and works well. Adams stuff is better. Still haven't decided on if I'm going to give the ceramic stuff a try. But the videos look like sorcery. 

[TXLNGHRN10 341]

What do y'all do to combat hard water?  Add a Brita filter to you hose?

Also I noticed WalMart is selling chemical guys products.

 

[Spur08 382]

19 hours ago, TXLNGHRN10 said:

What do y'all do to combat hard water?  Add a Brita filter to you hose?

Also I noticed WalMart is selling chemical guys products.

 

If you're super hardcore I suppose you could use a filter.  I just wash, then park the car in the garage to give myself a more time to towel dry.  

[52-80 19183]

1 big tip is wash your car later in the day, or under shade

Do the let the harsh sun dry it out and create water spots before you can wipe it off

 

[Nonbryan 173]

Anyone have a good local recommendation in Austin for an auto detailer?

[VonZipper 50]

Pro Reflection
501 West Powell Lane Unit 208
Austin, Texas 78753

[HoustonHorn 1062]

Anyone looking for a guy in Houston, PM me. Cheaper than a high-end detail, but does a really good job. I'd imagine if you want a professional level detail he could do it, but I haven't actually had him go that far. What he does for less than $100 is plenty for me. Not sure where he's located but I'm at the Beltway/I-10W and he comes at 7 or 7:30 AM sometimes so I imagine he's reasonably in that area of town. He does several houses in our area.

[elfenix 34322]

On 4/16/2019 at 12:20 PM, Francisco 2.0 said:

A great thing to use to get rid of the grime that builds up on the inside of glass is a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. 

thanks, that stuff is annoying as fuck

[drifter379 1106]

Need recommendations for interior.
Dash and instrument cluster mostly.
So much dust!

[Spur08 382]

I've used mothers VLR

[TXLNGHRN10 341]

Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer

Been pretty happy with this. It doesn't leave a greasy residue or high sheen

[drifter379 1106]

What are y’all using to get in the crevices to get stuff out? Brushes or just the corner of a rag?

[Judge Roybeanbag 11819]

6 hours ago, drifter379 said:

What are y’all using to get in the crevices to get stuff out? Brushes or just the corner of a rag?

Qtip sometimes.

[Francisco 2.0 32395]

6 hours ago, drifter379 said:

What are y’all using to get in the crevices to get stuff out? Brushes or just the corner of a rag?

 

Small shopvac to lug inside the vehicle (or a really long hose) with a horsehair brush (prevents scratching) attachment:

 

+

 

[ShaggyBevo RIP 3868]

7 hours ago, drifter379 said:

What are y’all using to get in the crevices to get stuff out? Brushes or just the corner of a rag?

Fold some painters tape for some lint roller like action.  I've heard of detailers using slime, the kids toy, to get stuff out of cervices but have no experience with doing that.

Any of you detailers do ceramic?

[Leamas 29]

15 hours ago, drifter379 said:

What are y’all using to get in the crevices to get stuff out? Brushes or just the corner of a rag?

I use a small detailing brush to agitate the area and hold a damp towel underneath to capture the loose grime. You can buy a set of 5-6 brushes for around $10 and use them around the house or office.

[Leamas 29]

8 hours ago, ShaggyBevo RIP said:

Any of you detailers do ceramic?

Not yet, but eventually. It just takes a little bit more prep time and it seems like I'll need dedicated (i.e., moar expensiver) products. Right now, I'm gradually moving away from liquid or paste wax and going to a sealant spray (Carpro Hydro2 + P&S Bead Maker) for the protection stage.

[CooterBrown 18015]

Jesus. This sounds like a ton of work. My Mercedes gets cleaned once a year only because the dealership does it as part of the annual maintenance.

[TXLNGHRN10 341]

On 5/24/2019 at 3:29 PM, drifter379 said:

What are y’all using to get in the crevices to get stuff out? Brushes or just the corner of a rag?

tooth brush and vacuum

[LonghornJones 837]

On 4/20/2019 at 8:27 PM, Spur08 said:

I'm still trying to figure out what kinda shoe knee shoe you got going on. Do you get tired draggin' that thing around? Does it help you jump really high?

[William_Cannon 86]

What are y’all using to get in the crevices to get stuff out? Brushes or just the corner of a rag?

Soft bristle brush.

Get you a nice 2” angled paint brush for dusting crevices. After dusting, apply your detailed or protectant.

[joe dirt 285]

i’ve been really pleased with chemical guys v07  quick detailer. after running the black expedition thru the car wash, it takes about 10min to spray and wipe down the entire thing to a mirror shine. pretty simple, streak free application.