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School me on the Grand Canyon

Wally Fairway

By Wally Fairway
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Wally Fairway

Wally Fairway 5541

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Going in about a month - for about 10 days, looking to spend most of it around the Grand Canyon, Zion and Bryce.

What are the must do items, and likely even more important, what are the things to avoid?
We are late to planning this so all we really have is planes in/out of Phoenix (cheaper and more choices than Vegas), rental wheels & my NPS Annual Pass (not quite old enough for the lifetime old fart pass)

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UnivTex34

UnivTex34 1763

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8 minutes ago, Wally Fairway said:

Going in about a month - for about 10 days, looking to spend most of it around the Grand Canyon, Zion and Bryce.

What are the must do items, and likely even more important, what are the things to avoid?
We are late to planning this so all we really have is planes in/out of Phoenix (cheaper and more choices than Vegas), rental wheels & my NPS Annual Pass (not quite old enough for the lifetime old fart pass)

You need to make sure you get the latest info about Zion direct from the source. I follow their social media accounts, and this winter has hit them really hard. I think one of the roads into the park (the one that is direct from Zion to Bryce) is closed for repairs for a while. Landslide, or washout, I don't remember. Also, there was a huge rock fall yesterday I think that closed access to a bunch of popular trails. This may cause a crazy crowded par to be a complete cluster, and you may not get to see some of the things you want to see. That said, that canyon may as well be the garden of eden, and is one of my favorite places on the planet, so even a fucked up experience, should be great. Hike Angels Landing if you get a chance. Wake your ass up and do it first thing, before it gets crowded. You need to be on the first bus.

@Anton Chigurh is the resident Utah expert. His rec's were golden on my last trip to that area.

 

We only spent one day in Bryce, it was cool, but it paled in comparison to Zion for me. Still have not done the GC except for a drive by, so can't help there, but if you get a chance to to horseshoe bend up near page, we really enjoyed it at sunset. Find a slot canyon like Antelope canyon too.

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gecko

gecko 1104

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GC north rim is better, fewer tourists.  I believe there is a whole thread on southern Utah NPs.  It shouldn't be hard to find.

If the Mt Carmel highway from Zion to Bryce is closed that will be a big miss.  At Zion do Angel's Landing, but it's not for kids.  Freakin' white-knucker (no racists)

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Wally Fairway

Wally Fairway 5541

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Thanks for the suggestions, here is what I've got so far

  1. followed each Park on Twitter,  Zion sounds like it is a mess
  2. Slot canyon tour made it onto the itinerary
  3. to get the best selfie, get as close to the cliff edge as possible, focus, then take a small step backwards
  4. bring a Geiger counter, just in case of buckets in closets
  5. being on Surly asking this question doesn't necessarily make me dumb; however it is admissible as evidence of being an asshole
  6. passing on the Mormon chicks at Grand Canyon U (even though I'm flying in/out of Phoenix) - I might be able to convince Mrs. Fairway into a 3-some, but I don't want to explain that to my kids
  7. I'm calling bullshit on the Meteor Crater recommendation, everyone else has said it is a hole in the ground with a gift shop

 

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Longhorn94

Longhorn94 2448

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Grand Canyon - We have visited probably a dozen times over the years. We either stay at Bright Angel or camp in a tent. Both are fun and have their advantages. If you can, hike down to Phantom Ranch and stay the night. To make a day of reservation, go into Bright Angel, go to the left of the main desk and talk to the people behind the tour desk. They usually have a cancellation or two at Phantom Ranch every day. They will try to deter you at first but if youre persistent, they will find a spot for you. Its an incredible experience. Hike down the Kaibab trail, stay the night, then hike back up the Bright Angel Trail. Make sure you walk the rim trail and go into all of the shops and museums. I love the Kolb house. Get on the bus and ride it from one end to the other. All the different views are amazing. Watch tower is awesome. Make sure you time it so you are at the sunset point at sunset. its an amazing view. 

Zion - We went last year and it was really great. We camped in a tent and hung out at the Zion Lodge in between hikes. The Narrows is a must do. Its different than any other hike I have been on. We didnt get to do Angel's Landing as it was closed but I have heard its amazing. We did several other hikes including the longest one up to the tallest point but I cant remember the name of it. It was a great hike and the view at the end was awesome. The little town next door is really nice and we walked in for dinner on a couple of occasions. The bus system to get around is really awesome. Try to catch a ranger talk or two if you can. They are really good. 

Bryce Canyon - I was really surprised by this one. It is not as big or overwhelming as the GC or even Zion but it is more intimate and just so unique in the landscapes. The hikes are really great and the views are just hard to beat. We tent camped and had a great time. We did a ranger talk and did the night sky viewing with the rangers as well. We really enjoyed Bryce Canyon a lot. We did the longest hike from one side to the other and got to experience the canyon and all of the interior views. Make sure you drive along the rim from one end to the other. The views are all different and amazing. The pizza place next to the main lodge is really good. 

Its a beautiful drive going from one to the next. 

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troph

troph 24781

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Zion - hike the narrows, go as far in as you can and hike back. Easily one of the best hikes you’ll ever do. Also rent dune buggies from a private tour company outside Zion. Fun times and find one that does slot canyon tours as part of it. I’ll post pics of all of this shortly. Epic trip for us last year.

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gecko

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The cabins, if you can still rent one, at Bryce are worth the expense.  Wife (no pics) and I stayed in one and we were about 50 yards (max) from the edge of the canyon.  Food in Bryce Canyon Lodge was surprisingly good  The Elk chili could not be beat.

If you are fortunate enough to get a good rain that clears right before sunset, the canyon images seem almost photoshopped.

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BradInATX

BradInATX 9208

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There's a trail along the road that runs along the south rim that's about a mile long and ends up right at the rim with an unbelievable canyon view with no fencing and nobody around. There's a parking lot just off the road that's semi-obvious but not marked with big flashing arrows or anything. I'll see if I can remember the name. Wife and I set up hammocks 20 feet from the rim and hung out all day. Saw a total of two people. There's a few picnic tables too.

Couldn't believe it when we hit the canyon after 20 minutes. Just a couple miles up the road at the visitor center there was a horrible mass of obnoxious tourists, and a 20 minute walk down the road gets you a perfect spot all to yourself. People are lazy, I guess. If you're coming from the west side it's about 2-3 miles past the visitor center on your left.

The watchtower is kickass too, but it's crowded. 

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Anton Chigurh

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Most has been said already. I’m going to Zion again myself next week for a bit, though I think it’s going to be a clusterfuck.

Question: are you camping or hoteling at Zion? I ask because parking is at a premium in the park and pretty much all of Springdale is now paid meter parking. You have to ride a shuttle bus into the canyon and starting in Springdale just makes it take that much longer.

At Zion you could try going to the Kolob Canyons section if there’s still a bunch of stuff closed. It must be accessed by highway taking 9 west and then I-15 north toward Cedar City. You can drive a car the length of the road here unlike in the main canyon. I believe they just redid the whole road last year, actually.

Kannarraville Falls is also near there (pay to park), you could check that out. Maybe do Toquerville Falls too.

I wonder if the Narrows will even be open by then.

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Al_4_ISU

Al_4_ISU 12451

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RE Grand Canyon, I've hiked the Bright Angel trail in and out twice.  First time we did an overnight at the Ghost Ranch and made a two day deal out of it (I was 13 or so).

Second time, we hiked down to the river, and turned around and came straight back up that same day.  I was crawling the last 200-300 yards.  Of course, I was 18 at the time and had gotten drunk in the campground the night before, so I wasn't exactly at peak hydration levels either.

It's an incredible place, and hiking to the bottom and back out gives you a level of appreciation that standing at the rim and taking a few pictures just can't.

If you have time for it, Moab/Arches is really cool.  Wife and I hiked there for a day on our honeymoon, and regret not making it the focus of the trip (spent most of it in CO).

Edited by Al_4_ISU
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Longhorn94

Longhorn94 2448

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1 hour ago, Al_4_ISU said:

RE Grand Canyon, I've hiked the Bright Angel trail in and out twice.  First time we did an overnight at the Ghost Ranch and made a two day deal out of it (I was 13 or so).

Second time, we hiked down to the river, and turned around and came straight back up that same day.  I was crawling the last 200-300 yards.  Of course, I was 18 at the time and had gotten drunk in the campground the night before, so I wasn't exactly at peak hydration levels either.

It's an incredible place, and hiking to the bottom and back out gives you a level of appreciation that standing at the rim and taking a few pictures just can't.

If you have time for it, Moab/Arches is really cool.  Wife and I hiked there for a day on our honeymoon, and regret not making it the focus of the trip (spent most of it in CO).

i could not agree more. plus once you get close to phantom ranch, its really nice to sit on the beach with your feet in the colorado.

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phdhorn

phdhorn 6224

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I can't imagine going to the canyon without taking one of the plane or helicopter trips. Well worth the money. When you clear the ledge and the canyon drops below you, it's cooler than a roller coaster. Definitely, absolutely, see it by air at least.

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Wally Fairway

Wally Fairway 5541

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Neighbor told me about the Moki dugway - that would be detour/sidetrip, but we might go to Monuments Valley so closer it's not far from that
Is the Valley of Fire State park in Nevada worth an excursion, seems like it's an hourish from Zion

How much did you carry with you hiking the parks -  +/- 1 liter of water per person, trail mix, spare socks, sunscreen, bandaids/first aid kit, what can't I live without.
 

 

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pops

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1 hour ago, Wally Fairway said:

Neighbor told me about the Moki dugway - that would be detour/sidetrip, but we might go to Monuments Valley so closer it's not far from that
Is the Valley of Fire State park in Nevada worth an excursion, seems like it's an hourish from Zion

How much did you carry with you hiking the parks -  +/- 1 liter of water per person, trail mix, spare socks, sunscreen, bandaids/first aid kit, what can't I live without.
 

 

Valley of fire is good to stop in for fireworks and bulk cigarettes at moapa tribal enterprises. Otherwise, keep driving north. 

 

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tchookem

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If you're driving I highly recommend a day trip to Antelope Canyon (and it will be a full day). The place was packed, but still somehow awe inspiring. Seriously amazing.

There are a couple options. Different companies do tours for different parts. I can look up the tour company that went with (our guide was an 18 year old Navajo kid, but he knew every spot to point out and helped with camera settings). I cannot recommend them enough.

That same day we also saw Horseshoe Bend. It's also a must do.ccaf50ef06255e7f27b1a2ab8517155f.jpg1923b3ff5b75cef9f7a0bce4d9c3a0c9.jpg

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Wally Fairway

Wally Fairway 5541

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10 hours ago, tchookem said:

If you're driving I highly recommend a day trip to Antelope Canyon (and it will be a full day). The place was packed, but still somehow awe inspiring. Seriously amazing.

There are a couple options. Different companies do tours for different parts. I can look up the tour company that went with (our guide was an 18 year old Navajo kid, but he knew every spot to point out and helped with camera settings). I cannot recommend them enough.

That same day we also saw Horseshoe Bend. It's also a must do.

Thanks  - good to see Armybrats grandkids are posting on surly

fwiw - your photos give me a slight case of vertigo

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idahorn

idahorn 26

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The best way to do the Canyon  is along the bottom.  If you have some skill, row a rented raft (PRO in Flagstaff will outfit you almost entirely) or go on a guided trip. It can take two weeks or less (if motor assisted).  By all means, visit the South Rim or North Rim--or both; but the real thrills are on the author of it all-the River.

 

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NotActuallyALonghorn

NotActuallyALonghorn 4975

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On 4/25/2019 at 11:56 AM, Wally Fairway said:

Neighbor told me about the Moki dugway - that would be detour/sidetrip, but we might go to Monuments Valley so closer it's not far from that
Is the Valley of Fire State park in Nevada worth an excursion, seems like it's an hourish from Zion

How much did you carry with you hiking the parks -  +/- 1 liter of water per person, trail mix, spare socks, sunscreen, bandaids/first aid kit, what can't I live without.
 

 

If you do the Moki Dugway, check out Mulie Point as well. If your coming up the dugway, take the first left at the top of the mesa on the dirt road there and drive until it stops. It ends at an awesome overlook area where you can see the goosenecks of the San Juan River below and Monument Valley in the distance if it is a clear day. And don't tell the family about the Moki Dugway. It's better if they know nothing about it and think they are going to die all of the sudden.

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BillyGoatHill

BillyGoatHill 4312

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Can't believe that it has been almost 20 years but the wife (no pics) and I did an 8 day backpacking trip with another couple in April 2001.

His wife was a teacher and they had done shorter trips in the Canyon for years (during her school's spring vacation) but he wanted to do a longer one and finally convinced us to go with them. He handled all of the logistics so all we had to do was get the right gear (big stuff,... tent, packs, treking poles was borrowed from other hiking/backpacking friends) and off we went. We would stay a weekend after the hike in Phoenix, so between the four of us with all our gear and regular suitcases it looked as if we were headed up the Amazon. We stayed at one of the hotels just outside the park the first night but went to the rim and I felt much like Chevy Chase in Vacation and saying " OK, there it is, we can go now".

The weather was beautiful that day and around 75 degrees and sunny but because the other couple had experienced all kinds of weather in the past, we had everything from shorts to parkas with rain gear included. Good thing, as the wife thought I was joking at Zero dark thirty the following morning when she asked about the weather. Upon looking outside,... Blizzard!, with about three inches of snow on the ground already.

We hefted up our packs, 65-70 lbs at the start and took the shuttle down the road to the New Hance Trail. Arguably one of the most difficult on the South Rim. At times, it was nothing more than a goat trail, if even that. After about 3 hrs of hiking, we finally got below the snow and ran into some college kids coming out (didn't know it then but we wouldn't see another person until day four). Those people were an archeologist and a couple of grad students.

It took almost all day to hike the 8.5-9 miles down to the river and we set up camp along the Colorado. Leaving the next morning it was bascially hiking back to the plateau 1500' above the river and going from spring to spring, campsite to campsite. We did stay two nights at one campsite and the foliage around some of the springs was truly like an oasis.

Our last night in the canyon, we perched our tents about 30' from the edge of a 1500' drop off and were treated to one of the most beautiful sunsets I will ever see. The north canyon wall changed in color numerous times as the sun set.

The last day of hiking we saw the mule train with supplies coming down the South Kaibab just as the sunrise was coming up. This was a really cool sight seeing the mules and Cowboys coming down.

Due to the spouse not really knowing what rationing was about, we literally ran out of food upon reaching the bottom of Bright Angel. We split an energy bar between the four of us, filled out water bottles from a spring one last time and headed for the rim.

Let's just say that after 8 days, seeing the edge of the rim at the top, kept me going.

All types of people were coming down. A wedding party with the bride and groom and family ALL in their tuxes and dresses. A family of 7-8, with kids from their early teens down to 2 yr old with only one bottle of water between all of them and the parents asking how far it was to Phantom Ranch. When seeing their water situation, (and their sandals) he was not happy with my response that he should turn around now as they would have no water for the hike back up (due to possibility of freezing temps still, the water pipes had not been turned on yet at the bottom of the trailhead). There were also plenty of people riding the mules down Bright Angel.

We must have looked like grizzled veterans because we got stopped by plenty of people at the top all wanting to know how it was down below and how long we had been hiking. It was kinda cool to see their surpise when we told them we had been camping/hiking for over the week.

With all of the switchbacks along the plateau, we had done over 50 miles when all was said and done. I still joke and call it the Death March, and at times it seemed it was. The only way out was to hike to the next camping spot and water source ahead on the trail.

But, I will say it is probably one the coolest things I have ever done and the beauty and solitude is unparalleled. Makes you feel very, very, very small and insignificant. We took plenty of pics but of course none of them do the beauty of the Canyon justice. We (at least me anyway) have always wanted to do the shorter hike to Havasu Falls and I hope someday to do that. 

After the first day, the temps were very comfortable in the 70s, maybe up to 80. No way I would ever attempt that hike in the summer. I had to laugh at ALL the signs pointing out how easily it is to die in the Park.

 

tl/dr: 8 day backpacking trip turns into quest for survival...

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Wally Fairway

Wally Fairway 5541

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11 hours ago, Hagbard Celine said:

@wally, do you have your plan planned?

Most of my plan is planned, 2.5 days in Zion, 2.5 days in Bryce, sidetracked to Monument Valley, 3 days +/- Grand Canyon (maybe shave a day to see family in Vegas, and do the Hoover Dam)

Virgin River is closed due to snow melt, estimated reopening is early June - so that's out, tentative quad razor/slot canyon side trip.

Looking at weather forecasts every day

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