Filling in driveway expansion joints

[Asithappens 974]

Anybody have a favorite method of doing this? 

I'm using backer rod, sometimes waterproof caulk, leveling caulk, then some sand on the top. 

That leveling caulk ain't cheap.

[Gil Bang 26100]

You can buy the stuff that's made for pool decks.    It's good stuff.

https://express.google.com/u/0/product/10960929888186649418_9850644480604802039_120654492?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=tu_cu&utm_content=eid-lsjeuxoeqt&gtim=CIqt9-ypjfDPsAEQzMvZ_M3iivDYARiAg4EpIgNVU0QokJ2B6AUwnJXEOQ&utm_campaign=120654492&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrdjnBRDXARIsAEcE5Yn93MUkMLvQk55slcm5xIbn5WkHQLsTnfCG-iDRrOUPTo6BaQWSor4aAk8gEALw_wcB

[deadshank 24653]

Backer rod and the self-leveling caulk is the way to go.  There are no magic bullets. 

[williemackgarza 1826]

What did you end up using?
SL1 is the shiznit

[Spur08 382]

So, the shitty piece of wood I have there isn't good?

[Asithappens 974]

8 hours ago, williemackgarza said:

What did you end up using?
SL1 is the shiznit

I started out overkilling it.

1. Clean stuff out of the gap.

2. put down the backer rod (for me, this was mostly used to fill up the space).

3. used clear waterproof silicone caulk on the backer rod to attach to concrete sides (this was the overkill, I stopped doing this pretty quickly).

4. applied the self-leveling caulk. If you're doing any amount at all, I recommend buying the big (about 30 oz) tubes of the self-leveling caulk (instead of the smaller about 10 oz tubes). At my Lowes, the smaller tubes are about $8.50, while the bigger tubes are around $13.50, so (almost) triple the amount for less than half the price. You'll also need a bigger caulk gun. And you can go through a lot of this stuff if you aren't careful, hence using the backer rod stuff. Also, the backer rod will float, so ideally you'll shove that stuff in the gap and it will kind of be jammed in there. 

5. I don't like the look of the self-leveling caulk, so I put some play sand (can get at Lowes) over it. Don't know how that will do over time. 

Like I mentioned, if you're not careful you can go through a lot of that self-leveling caulk. When I started I was buying the smaller tubes ($8.50 a pop) and could use 2.5 to 3 tubes for about a 10-12 foot span. Ouch, considering I had a lot more than that to do. So, get the bigger tubes, use backer rod (you can even fill some of the gap with sand if you want, just leave enough space for the self-leveling caulk), and try not to be messy with it. Oh, and you might want to wear gloves or latex/nitrile gloves to keep the stuff off your hands. 

 

*** edit to add ***

I used Sika Grey Self-Leveling Sealant. My guess is that it's pretty close to SL1 quality. 

Edited June 11, 2019 by Asithappens

[Asithappens 974]

8 hours ago, Spur08 said:

So, the shitty piece of wood I have there isn't good?

Lol. I hope it is. I still have some of that wood in place. But yeah, that stuff can't be all that waterproof. 

[NotActuallyALonghorn 4980]

Just use dandelions and bahia grass like a normal person.

[Longhorn Fever 275]

3 hours ago, NotActuallyALonghorn said:

Just use dandelions and bahia grass like a normal person.

I prefer a mix of crabgrass, dallisgrass and  johnsongrass.

[crash_davis 23159]

use gap armour.  

https://gaparmour.com/

[BottleRocket 647]

Mind the gap!

[mulletpelini 5216]

You guys like to talk about caulk

Edited June 12, 2019 by mulletpelini
nttawwt

[tbone_ 14275]

Why would you fill in expansion joints? Aren’t they there for a reason?

[Asithappens 974]

6 hours ago, tbone_ said:

Why would you fill in expansion joints? Aren’t they there for a reason?

Not a dumb question.

1) The gaps, if not filled in, may allow water to seep under the concrete sections (in this case, driveway) and cause "voids", empty spaces that can cause the driveway to sink.

2) The material used to fill in the gaps is flexible, still allowing expansion of the concrete.

Edited June 13, 2019 by Asithappens

[Nueces River Rat 5600]

I used the caulk method to fill and expansion joint where my drive way meet up to what is the beginning of the foundation of my house in front of the garage door.   I think I used twenty tubes of the stuff or more, but you pretty much just squeeze it our and let it do it's job until you are level and then you move on.   So be prepared by a large quantity if you are filling in an expansion joint for a standard drive way which accommodates a two car garage.  

[Asithappens 974]

4 minutes ago, Nueces River Rat said:

I used the caulk method to fill and expansion joint where my drive way meet up to what is the beginning of the foundation of my house in front of the garage door.   I think I used twenty tubes of the stuff or more, but you pretty much just squeeze it our and let it do it's job until you are level and then you move on.   So be prepared by a large quantity if you are filling in an expansion joint for a standard drive way which accommodates a two car garage.  

Yeah.

20 tubes of the small stuff (your price may vary) for me is about $170, and 200 ounces (give or take).

200 ounces in the big tubes is about 7 tubes, and at $13.50/tube is $95 (or so).

Get the big tubes, Even after spending $15 to $20 for the big caulk gun, it's still worth it.

 

[Nueces River Rat 5600]

3 minutes ago, Asithappens said:

Yeah.

20 tubes of the small stuff (your price may vary) for me is about $170, and 200 ounces (give or take).

200 ounces in the big tubes is about 7 tubes, and at $13.50/tube is $95 (or so).

Get the big tubes, Even after spending $15 to $20 for the big caulk gun, it's still worth it.

 

Exactly.   I have another one to repair and I am going to buy the larger caulk gun and tubes.  

[Liquor and Poker 3659]

On 6/11/2019 at 11:17 AM, crash_davis said:

use gap armour.  

https://gaparmour.com/

How hard is this to install?   The website doesn’t make it clear.  

[Asithappens 974]

9 minutes ago, Liquor and Poker said:

How hard is this to install?   The website doesn’t make it clear.  

You need to do a better job of cleaning out the gaps if you use that stuff. Which may or may not be a lot of work. 

The downside to that stuff, imo, is if it starts lifting out of the cracks it can look bad. You've got a whole length of material that wants to come out, as opposed to the flexible caulk, which self-levels and just sits there (as long as you don't overfill).

But it shouldn't be all that hard.

[Liquor and Poker 3659]

1 hour ago, Asithappens said:

You need to do a better job of cleaning out the gaps if you use that stuff. Which may or may not be a lot of work. 

The downside to that stuff, imo, is if it starts lifting out of the cracks it can look bad. You've got a whole length of material that wants to come out, as opposed to the flexible caulk, which self-levels and just sits there (as long as you don't overfill).

But it shouldn't be all that hard.

Thanks.  I once had a neighbor try to replace the wood and just hammering it down into the gap looked like a nightmare.  

[Jiggy-Z 3469]

Backer rod and self leveling stuff.

Go to Whitecap or Ace Contracotrs or CMI counter sales, get it by the case and cheaper. I'm in the business

[immortal13 4059]

8 hours ago, Nueces River Rat said:

Exactly.   I have another one to repair and I am going to buy the larger caulk gun and tubes.  

Your mom likes the bigger caulk

[Nueces River Rat 5600]

24 minutes ago, immortal13 said:

Your mom likes the bigger caulk

She saw yours and laughed.

[williemackgarza 1826]

Backer rod and self leveling stuff.
Go to Whitecap or Ace Contracotrs or CMI counter sales, get it by the case and cheaper. I'm in the business

Or Reinforcing steel supply if in austin. U can get tubs of it if too which are cheaper and you pour it out.
Just make sure you fill in the joint first with backer rod or dirt/backfill or sand leaving a few inches of open joint beneath the top of concrete. U dont want to fill any voids under the slab as it pours out very “liquidy”. That could be why yall are using so much. The sealer will bond to the concrete.

[gsoda3 3302]

13 minutes ago, williemackgarza said:

Or Reinforcing steel supply if in austin. U can get tubs of it if too which are cheaper and you pour it out.
Just make sure you fill in the joint first with backer rod or dirt/backfill or sand leaving a few inches of open joint beneath the top of concrete. U dont want to fill any voids under the slab as it pours out very “liquidy”. That could be why yall are using so much. The sealer will bond to the concrete.

which self-levelling product would you recommend?  and are all backer rods made the same?

[Asithappens 974]

43 minutes ago, gsoda3 said:

which self-levelling product would you recommend?  and are all backer rods made the same?

I'm not an expert, but most of the backer rod stuff is the same. Ditto for the self-leveling product.

As the expert above did say, if you're going to use a lot, buy it by the case.  Jiggy-Z is the expert....

Like Williemack said, use backer rod  (or sand) to fill up the space so you don't have to so much of the self-leveling caulk. And, the backer rod will float. That's not usually a problem, but keep in mind.

 

[Jiggy-Z 3469]

43 minutes ago, Asithappens said:

I'm not an expert, but most of the backer rod stuff is the same. Ditto for the self-leveling product.

As the expert above did say, if you're going to use a lot, buy it by the case.  Jiggy-Z is the expert....

Like Williemack said, use backer rod  (or sand) to fill up the space so you don't have to so much of the self-leveling caulk. And, the backer rod will float. That's not usually a problem, but keep in mind.

 

Backer rod does not matter (there are different kinds), its only there to provide a bottom before the material sets.  Just make sure backer rod is wide enough to provide snug fit.  Forgot about RSS.  Also a lot of the larger equipment rental places have all that as well.  Others:  Ram tool, Barnsco, Central Texas Equipment, United Rentals.

[williemackgarza 1826]

Backer rod does not matter (there are different kinds), its only there to provide a bottom before the material sets.  Just make sure backer rod is wide enough to provide snug fit.  Forgot about RSS.  Also a lot of the larger equipment rental places have all that as well.  Others:  Ram tool, Barnsco, Central Texas Equipment, United Rentals.

Jiggy, why no RSS?
We use tons of suppliers in the austin area, rss being one.
Just curious why you dont like them.
They are locally owned and treat us right.
Sometimes higher $ sometimes lower $. We buy tons of rebar and tools and material from them.
Just depends on what the sales group can quote on each project.

[Jiggy-Z 3469]

13 hours ago, williemackgarza said:

Jiggy, why no RSS?
We use tons of suppliers in the austin area, rss being one.
Just curious why you dont like them.
They are locally owned and treat us right.
Sometimes higher $ sometimes lower $. We buy tons of rebar and tools and material from them.
Just depends on what the sales group can quote on each project.

No problem with RSS.  Said I had just forgot about them. They are not my primary rebar or supply vendor, mostly just because  we are south and they are north, habits etc.