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Ecuador & the Galapágos Islands


Eggo

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The fiancée (no pics) and I are traveling to Quito and the Galapagos Islands for 12 days next month as a celebration for her finishing medical residency. We have 5 nights in a Quito Airbnb, 4 nights in a Galapagos resort with yacht tours, and 3 nights at the Mansion del Angel in Quito before flying home. 

Anyone have experience with Quito, Galapagos, or the country of Ecuador in general? Thanks! 

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5 hours ago, Eggo said:

The fiancée (no pics) and I are traveling to Quito and the Galapagos Islands for 12 days next month as a celebration for her finishing medical residency. We have 5 nights in a Quito Airbnb, 4 nights in a Galapagos resort with yacht tours, and 3 nights at the Mansion del Angel in Quito before flying home. 

Anyone have experience with Quito, Galapagos, or the country of Ecuador in general? Thanks! 

5 nights in Quito? Best of luck!

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Girlfriend (pics on Shag) spent a week or so in Ecuador remodeling a school or some such thing.  Hosts provided meals so she doesn't have any dining recommendations.  Said her favorite thing was the variety of fruit in every meal and least favorite thing was that the monkeys will steal your shit.  And the locals don't kill spiders.

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In Quito....old town is pretty cool, but that's maybe a half day.  The cathedral is pretty cool, maybe 2 hours tops.  Take the tram to the top of the mountain and take a gander back at the immensity of Quito....that's half of day 2.  Now you're done.  Not sure what else to tell you about 3 more days.

Quito's airport is a long way from the city.  Be sure to factor that in getting to/from airport.  Cabs are cheap but I would use an arranged car to/from.  

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Lots of little towns and beautiful natural preserves only couple hours away by car from Quito. Spent my bar trip in Ecuador; but was part time in Quito, then baños, cuenca, Guayaquil, and montañita. Sadly no Galapagos.

I’ll see what the gf says for Quito but we stayed with her family there so didn’t do a lot of touristy stuff.  If you take tram up the mountain where the angel/Mary whatever it is is at, be sure to drink the canelazo. Tip well and they’ll heavy hand it with the aguardiente.  5 days is a lot if you just stay in the city. Old city is nice to walk through though.  

Like any other large Latino city, there are good and bad areas, just be aware and don’t flash wealth around. Lotta cool graffiti too if that’s your thing. The big park in the middle of the city might be nice to meander through if you go during the day. 

Be sure to stop in and eat some pig. Fucking amazing the way they fry, serve fritada and churrazco. Best place we went just had a large real cooking pig on a spit outside the door,  in the middle of the burbs regular old strip mall.  They also love chaulafan but that’s just fried rice so never really saw the appeal. If you get hungover or as they call it “chuchaki”, many locals love encebollado, which to my understanding is seafood soup. Not my bag but whatevs. Think it’s better on the coast so you might have more luck on the islands. They also have “hot sauce” but they call it aji. Not spicy at all. Flavorful as hell but not the least bit spicy. I added it to all my meals but again, not spicy.

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I thought Quito was very cool, but yeah 5 days is a lot.  In addition to what Gecko says, you can go to the equator which is cool.  Wife and I did all of that in one day.  We hired a car out of hour hotel who took us to all those places for $120.  Probably could have bargained down to $100 or maybe less, I think that's what you're supposed to do, but whateves.  The dude was totally cool.  Ecuador uses dollars so no need to change money.

Actually, we only went to Quito as a gateway to Galapagos.  Galapagos is pretty controlled, you can only visit most of it if you're on a tour.  Sounds like all your tours are booked which is good, especially if you're only traveling as a couple.  Last minute stuff can be tricky, we lucked onto one tour because the capacity was 12 and there was a group of 10 older Germans.  (The krauts were by and large very cool, one bitchy lady trying to be in charge but even the krauts ignored her.  A couple of them were familiar with UT and our football team, they started the convo due to my longhorn cap.  This was August of 2017 so I didn't say much about football.)  In my experience, the tour guides were all very knowledgeable and educated.  One of our guides had a Masters from Cornell.  I think all the guides are gonna speak English and most hotels and even restaurants will as well.  Spanish comes in very handy of course

If you're staying on Santa Cruz for any period of time, there is a street market where you can grab dinner.  Los Kioskos - basically a bunch of different outdoor restaurants.  Seafood is the specialty obviously.  Kinda fun to walk around downtown Santa Cruz, seems pretty safe and again, they control who can go in and out.

If Quito gets boring, Guayaquil seemed cool, it's actually the largest city in Ecuador.  But I never actually visited, just stopped at the airport.

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I know it wasn't on your list, and its out of your way, but Cuenca is a real jewel in the Andes.  Incapirca was also so very cool if you're into Inca stuff....

Outside Incapira we stayed at a guest house with a bunch of German tourists.  They were a blast....their English stunk about as bad as my German.  It's at about 10K feet so be careful.  Quito is up there also, plan accordingly.

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Cuenca was amazing. Great art and beautiful ruins. Lots of expats too. The hot springs were the tits as well. But the ones we went to were literally off the road and we paid some random Native American Ecuadorean two bucks to get in. the city was Cold as hell compared to other cities but a real beautiful place. Baños is all adventure outdoor stuff and montañita is spring break on steroids. Fun if you and the lady into it but yeah, just flat out beach party 24/7. Only thing I’ve seen close to it was Pamplona during the running of the bulls festival. 

Oh yeah, flying seemed safe enough on avianca but highly advise against taking the local “buses” between the cities if those five days in Quito get boring. Basically there is a local known spot, dudes who are part of a company but really more akin to random guy who has a minivan or slightly larger, roll up and get dispatched out to the other big cities. Closest I have ever come came to dying. Motherfucker was purposely gliding into oncoming traffic over the median line, while speeding downhill on a mountain range, in extremely foggy/rainy conditions, just so he didn’t have to slow down on the curves. We couldn’t see more than 30ft ahead of us but he didn’t care. Fuck that guy. 

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Oh yeah at the risk of being Captain Obvious, Quito is like 9k elevation.  The tram to the top of the mountain takes you to 13k.  Hiking around up there can cause a little huffing and puffing but there are tons of well marked, well kept trails so you shouldn't get into any trouble.

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15 minutes ago, shakahorn said:

Oh yeah at the risk of being Captain Obvious, Quito is like 9k elevation.  The tram to the top of the mountain takes you to 13k.  Hiking around up there can cause a little huffing and puffing but there are tons of well marked, well kept trails so you shouldn't get into any trouble.

Chlorophyll pills work wonders for this. So does glaucoma medicine   

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In Cuenca "Cafe San Sabas" is frequented by the expats and the food is 100% safe.  Owned by a US expat, daughter of US missionaries.

I've been there twice.  And yes....Cuenca is cold and damp.  Flew in on LATAM on an A320 from Quito....and the landing was, how should I say it, well, I'm alive typing this so it has that going for it.

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Thanks all for the thoughts/tips. We've considered getting a rental so we have options like driving down to Cotopaxi National Park. Obviously we won't be summiting, but seeing a bit more of the country for a day trip would be nice. We're both ultra/mountain runners, so the chance to get up in thin air is enticing. 

We're flying Avianca from Quito to Guayaquil, then on to Baltra in Galapagos. Avianca direct from Baltra back to Quito on the way home. 

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4 hours ago, bigup2dahorns said:

Recommended amount of time to check out the Galapagos? 3 or 4 days?

From what I've researched, the best way to see the islands are by yacht/cruise, but those are exorbitantly expensive. We opted for a stay at the Finch Bay Hotel on Santa Cruz with a 5 days/4 nights package that includes both land and sea tours. I picked this because the hotel itself owns a yacht, otherwise you have to charter one separately. Will report back after we get back at the end of July. 

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Went to Quito, Cotopaxi, Banos and Galapagos on long vacation.  Galapagos is amazing and needs at least 3-4 days.  It is animal porn (no pics).  Try to hike out areas where you can so that you are as isolated as possible.  We did canoe on one island rather than snorkeling and it was an amazing experience with penguins, seals, turtles, diving pelicans following us like we were the animals at the zoo.

Climbing to at least the snowline in Cotopaxi is worth it but be prepared, windy and cold as shit.   I highly recommend staying one night at hacienda san agustin de callo.  Expensive but worth it.

Banos is fun but I wouldn't do it again.  Its ziplining and rafting and such but you can do same thing in Costa Rica.

Quito, all I remember is Cafe Mosaico.  great place to drink wine with really nice view.

 

 

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On 6/27/2019 at 11:22 AM, bigup2dahorns said:

Recommended amount of time to check out the Galapagos? 3 or 4 days?

We did 7 days and 6 nights and it still felt like a short time.  While I appreciate nature as much as the next guy who grew up camping, I would never consider myself a naturalist.  That said, even this amount of time seemed short.  Every day was something new and mind blowing from the last.  Traveling from island to island, you can visualize evolution because it's living in front of you.  I remember doing a morning snorkel, falling into the water and looking down and seeing a vast squadron of eagle rays spread out in a giant "V" formation.  And there's constantly something amazing like that to see.  I can't wait to take Chad Jr. when he's a little older.  

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10 minutes ago, bigup2dahorns said:

Best time of the year to visit Galapagos or similar conditions all year?

I haven't been at multiple times, so I can't say.  I think we went on the edge of the season, like in Oct./Nov., and it was cheaper.  It was the Mrs.'s dream trip, so she took the leading oar on and it negotiated with the travel folks in Ecuador for months.  We used Happy Gringo (yup, that's the real name) and we were on a small (8 cabin) catamaran.  I couldn't recommend them highly enough.  

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Mrs. MO and I are planning our next trip and Italy has been the destination all along. But this thread is making me rethink that. I just told her we might want to do the Galapagos instead. Thanks Surly for complicating my life... 1st world problems.

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Did this or something similar aboard a small boat, https://www.happygringo.com/galapagos-tours/galapagos-island-cruises/golondrina-yacht/ .  Highly recommend.  It was a blast because it was a small out of date boat where you could look over the side and see sharks, manta rays, and stopped at sea and swam--as in jump off the deck.  You can't do that in a big boat and you don't have flexibility--easier to swim with seals, rays, sharks and turtles with a few others rather than a hundred people. Land tours on the islands are great because of all the things you will see and animals haven't developed a fear of people.  One of the islands--think it may have been the Charles Darwin had a general store that sold magnums of local beer for about a buck so I bought a few for the whole trip and had one a day.  There's a lot to do just outside of Quito--make it your base.  There's a cloud forest to visit, Banos, volcano's, rafting, zip lining, whatever.  Look up a few ecotours and have a great time.  

Africa is seeing a shit ton of stuff on land and the Galapagos is seeing some on land but a whole lot in the water.  

Buy dramamine.  

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A little update on our upcoming trip. I've heard that Quito/Ecuadorian public transport is cheap and effective, but fucking complicated. I don't want to spend my whole trip navigating connections and arguing with a bus driver. I read several accounts that the best move is to hire a driver, so I found one that came highly recommended. According to the driver, there have been some landslides in Ecuador lately that have made some routes inaccessible, but hopefully it will be cleaned up by the time we arrive. 

Current Quito itinerary with the improved transportation involves hiking Guagua Pichincha (15,696′), hiking partway up Cotopaxi (19,347', probably going up to 16k), Cascada de San Rafael, and a day trip to Baños. 

Pics that drew me in: 

Guagua Pichincha:

Rucu_Pichincha_and_Trail.jpg

Cotopaxi: 

laguna-limpiopungo-cotopaxi.jpg

 

Cascada de San Rafael:

piccascada1.jpg

 

Baños: 

banos-ecuador.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Trip was amazing. Quito is a great city, but even better were all the places we went on day trips. 

1. Baños for hiking, waterfalls, thermal pools. 

2. Mindo for cloud forest, tons of waterfalls, chocolate. 

3. We hiked up to the glacier on Cotopaxi (~17,000 ft). Way higher elevation than I've ever been. 

We then flew to the Galapagos and had an incredible time. Giant tortoises, marine iguanas, lava tunnels with owls. We took yacht day trips where we saw dolphins, penguins, sea turtles, blue-footed boobies, frigate birds, iguanas. Snorkeling in the blue water was awesome and the beaches were like nothing I've ever seen before. 

Highly recommended trip. Feel free to ask questions. We hired a private driver for our time on the mainland and I absolutely recommend that route. Let me know if you want his contact info. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/17/2019 at 12:34 PM, Born to Run said:

Can I piggyback this thread? Considering a family surf trip to Ecuador between Christmas and New Years. Maybe 9 days? Surf 4 days and then....
Not sure that's long enough to do Galapagos also

Just keep in mind that this is going to be a really hot time of year in the Galapagos. You could be sitting in the pool for most of the time. The Galapagos beaches have a lot of sharks, so keep that in mind. 

17 hours ago, Tailgate said:

Glad you had a great time. Galapagos is high on my list. I scuba dive and have heard it’s pretty awesome there with the water and wildlife all around.

We met one couple who were world travelers and the husband was a diver. We asked where their favorite place in the world was, and he immediately said "Here because of the diving. (Galapagos)" They apparently had a family of sea lions do an underwater dance for them. I was jealous at that moment to not be a diver. 

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5 minutes ago, Eggo said:

Just keep in mind that this is going to be a really hot time of year in the Galapagos. You could be sitting in the pool for most of the time. The Galapagos beaches have a lot of sharks, so keep that in mind. 

We met one couple who were world travelers and the husband was a diver. We asked where their favorite place in the world was, and he immediately said "Here because of the diving. (Galapagos)" They apparently had a family of sea lions do an underwater dance for them. I was jealous at that moment to not be a diver. 

Galapagos is definitely a top 10 dive spot for most divers, but you don't have to spend all that time and money to get there if you want to play with sea lions. There are several places to dive with them in Baja.

 

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15 minutes ago, rage-a-holic said:

Galapagos is definitely a top 10 dive spot for most divers, but you don't have to spend all that time and money to get there if you want to play with sea lions. There are several places to dive with them in Baja.

 

giphy.gif

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1 hour ago, Eggo said:

Just keep in mind that this is going to be a really hot time of year in the Galapagos. You could be sitting in the pool for most of the time. The Galapagos beaches have a lot of sharks, so keep that in mind. 

We met one couple who were world travelers and the husband was a diver. We asked where their favorite place in the world was, and he immediately said "Here because of the diving. (Galapagos)" They apparently had a family of sea lions do an underwater dance for them. I was jealous at that moment to not be a diver. 

You should get certified. I’m an oldie and still do it. My wife and I got certified our last year in college when we were dating, I actually got certified at UT in the swimming pool the swim team uses. 

But...it makes your vacation experiences much deeper. :) 

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15 minutes ago, Eggo said:

I'm confused why you came into a thread about the Galapagos and tried to pitch me Baja. 

You're confused because after you said you were jealous of people diving with sea lions, someone posted info about diving with sea lions? That's what you're confused about?

Are you from oklahoma?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just returned from 8 days in and around Quito and spent two days in Cuenca, visiting the Ingapirca Ruins.   

Cuenca was such a beautiful town to walk around at night.  We ran across the gorgeous central plaza and the nearby church, while trying to find the highly recommended restaurant, Tiesto's Cafe.  When we arrived, we did not have reservations, but the Chef/Owner greeted us and told us to sit at the bar while they got a table for us.  We assumed that it was because we had two white Americans in our party of 4.  He then explained what we should eat and how good his meat was.  We ate like kings that night and also had excellent table-side service.

We also did the Ingapirca Ruins and the gold/silver town of Chordeleg.   Don't go there unless you like 90s era jewelry, but the Ruins and the drive up there was awesome.

One of our friends grew up in Quito, so he was a our host throughout the trip in and around Quito, Cumbaya, Guayllabamba, Otavallo, Atuntaqui.

We had expectations to do a lot of hiking, but we ended up loving the small towns, central plazas and drank a lot of wine, rum & canelazos.

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  • 1 year later...

Got back last week.  Quito is a very pretty city.  The lights twinkle at night because of the altitude I assume and it is a sight to behold.  Truly one of the pretties cities I have visited.  That said, there's not much to do there besides look at old churches.  I did not sleep very well the 2 nights we were there, but I am guessing that was also because of the altitude.  I had never been higher up than Denver before this trip.  I was fine walking around, but was constantly thirsty, like drink a bottle of water and parched again 10 minutes later thirsty.  Still a cool place to see.  The only other place we went there that hasn't been mentioned is the ruins and park at Rumipamba.  My favorite part of it was walking on an old native trail through the jungle that predated the Incas.

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View from the balcony of the restaurant we ate at.

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The yacht we stayed on.  It is only a few months old and this was the first full trip they took it out on.  Very nice.

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We only saw one flamingo, but it walked up to about 6' away from us.

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I thought the people we were with who had been there before were kidding about seeing piles of iguanas, but it was true.

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View from the top of the mountain at Bartholomew Island.

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This guy was very photogenic.

 

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We saw tortoises in the wild like this guy and on a tortoise reserve in the highlands on San Cristobal.

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Boobies everywhere.

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And frigates, they also like to hover over the boats.  A couple of people in our group got crapped on by them while sitting on the top deck.

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It was a once in a lifetime trip from staying on yacht to snorkeling with sea lions, penguins and sea turtles.  It is more expensive, but staying on a boat lets you see so much more while you are there.  Would definitely recommend going that route.  The only downside was the journey home.  We left Baltra in the morning, had to stop in Guayaquil for 30 or 45 minutes to pick up other passengers then on to Quito.  The flights to the US don't leave there until midnight, so we sat around in the airport until our flight left at 12:45 in the morning.  Then in Atlanta we were in a rush to get through security because we arrived 45 minutes late because planes don't leave on time anymore, but we got on our flight to Austin and landed at 9:30am.  25 hours in the airports and on planes is a long fucking day, but it was still worth it.

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  • 1 year later...

Bumping this thread. Oldest son and I are looking at a trip in October. Just starting our planning. Going for a week. Might do all mainland, and might do most of it in Galapogos. Don't think we're going to have time to do both. Any new thoughts would be appreciated. 

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We've decided on Galapagos, with maybe one day in Quito. We want to do the cruise option for something like Sunday thru Friday, but haven't totally ruled out the land basedoption. We aren't surly 1%rs so looking for something nice, but reasonably priced. Around 2K per person. The goggles is not much help. Just way too much out there. I saw Happy Gringo upthread, so will look at that. Anything other ideas? 

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Bruh, 96% of Surly is a Surly 1%er so I don't understand.

Does $2k per person include getting to Ecuador?  If so, could be tough for you to afford a week. 

But to actually be helpful and not just question, we took flight from Quito to Galapagos, then stayed in hotel on same island (San Cristobal).  I remember flights being $400 or so each but it was 7 years ago so could be fuzzy.  From that island, just paid to go on boats to other islands for our daily excursions.  Obviously, then there is hotel and food.  So if you fly, you will likely have to stay as cheap as possible to afford the day tours.   

I have no clue whether cruises are cheaper than flying since we only had few days for the galapagos part of our trip so when I researched, saw minimum cruise duration was like 7 days so I stopped looking.

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We had fun with our flights because you have to go with a local carrier to fly from Ecuador to the Galapagos.  We bought our tickets well in advance, then covid hit and our trip got moved back a year.  That local carrier went under and then popped back up under a new name with the same planes, but our tickets were cancelled.  Luckily I got a refund on them from my bank.  The 2k won't cover flights and tours.  It will take a good chunk of 2K just to get to the Galapagos.

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There's a park fee of $100 or so per person that you have to pay at the airport in Quito before you leave for the Galapagos and you also have to go through an extra security process where they check for biologicals.  They are serious about not introducing anything to the islands.

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2 hours ago, kevwun said:

Here's the website of the tour guide we had.  I can't recommend Fausto enough.  He is extremely knowledgeable and very friendly.  We went with a bunch of biologists and scientists and even they couldn't stump him.  I would definitely talk to him to plan something.

https://galapagosbest.com/

That's the same one we took.  Book in advance though, they get full.  As I mentioned, we got lucky and got on a ride with a tour group of 10 Germans (well 9 Germans and their translator) and the boat only holds 12 plus crew.  Fausto was awesome.  Has a graduate degree from Cornell and is fluent in English.  Although at one point, one of the Germans did something dumb and he muttered to one of the crew 'el stupido' without knowing I could hear him.  So he would fit right in here.

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It's funny because he speaks English with a bit of a British accent because he was married to a Brit.  He has even worked with David Attenborough.  If he's not the best guide in the Galapagos, the list of those ahead of him is very short.

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3 hours ago, Hornbeliever said:

Bruh, 96% of Surly is a Surly 1%er so I don't understand.

Does $2k per person include getting to Ecuador?  If so, could be tough for you to afford a week. 

But to actually be helpful and not just question, we took flight from Quito to Galapagos, then stayed in hotel on same island (San Cristobal).  I remember flights being $400 or so each but it was 7 years ago so could be fuzzy.  From that island, just paid to go on boats to other islands for our daily excursions.  Obviously, then there is hotel and food.  So if you fly, you will likely have to stay as cheap as possible to afford the day tours.   

I have no clue whether cruises are cheaper than flying since we only had few days for the galapagos part of our trip so when I researched, saw minimum cruise duration was like 7 days so I stopped looking.

The 2K is just for our time in galapagos. Flights to Ecuador, the island, and other things on the mainland are extra. 

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Honeymooned there in 1997.  Booked through a tour guide.  13 day trip included 3 nights in Quito and day trips to the Equator and Cotacachi - a village famous for leather goods - really cool. Quito and day trips were great.  We then flew to Guayaquil for one night (we went to the mouth of Amazon River there to see the rafts of biomass floating out to sea - precursor to the Galapagos story).  I thought Guayaquil was very 3rd world, sketchy, would not wander around in that City without being in a group.  We then flew to Baltra and then on to Santa Cruz where we stayed at the Finch Bay Hotel - nice but nothing fancy - no ac just leave windows open at night.  We would board a 90 foot yacht everyday (Delphin II? i think but not sure - nice touring yacht with full bar) and tour a different island every day.  I loved being on the boat all day but then coming back in the evenings to sleep and eat onshore.  The other tour groups we would encounter that were staying exclusively on the boats always looked a little disheveled and haggard from staying on the boats fulltime.  I am sure the fulltime boat experience is unique in its own way (like camping on a yacht?) and works for some folks but I preferred going back and getting a shower and nice dinner and nice breakfast every day before heading out. Highly recommend visiting Ecuador and the Galapagos - amazing experience.

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We had our own room and bathroom with shower on the boat.  It took a night to get used to the boat running overnight between islands and dropping the anchor in the middle of the night, but it was amazing.  I love being on the water though.

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